Echo rear handle 2511 - CS-2511WES

[usmcbuckwild]

Do you recommend a bar/chain change, and, if so, what? Thanks.

Some folks advocate for the 1/4” chain. Its not a cheap venture: sprocket is $38, the bar is around $60 (last time i priced it) chain is $25. IIRC Stihl bar is the closest fit but still requires some minor modification. Once ported these little buggers do pretty well with the 3/8 lp, at least in my opinion. I heard something about 3/8 lp narrow kerf full chisel chain becoming available. I would like to try that combo before recommending.

 

[Stump Shot]

I'll take 2 please! One for each hand

Big plans? Lol

 

[fordf150]

.043 chain helps but almost every one i have sold ended up with 1/4" on them. some went with an oregon bar(12" A041 with 25AP chain) but most modded the stihl bar so that their 150's and the 2511 run the same chain.

 

[usmcbuckwild]

.043 chain helps but almost every one i have sold ended up with 1/4" on them. some went with an oregon bar(12" A041 with 25AP chain) but most modded the stihl bar so that their 150's and the 2511 run the same chain.

This is the man to ask those specific chain/bar questions. He is who i got all my info from. And, he usually has the parts in stock!

 

[rumatt]

.043 chain helps but almost every one i have sold ended up with 1/4" on them. some went with an oregon bar(12" A041 with 25AP chain) but most modded the stihl bar so that their 150's and the 2511 run the same chain.

Interesting, thanks!

How's the 1/4" for small limbs? Is it more likely to get pinched than 3/8 lo pro?

Looking at comments on Stihl MS-150 chain preference, people seem mixed. Some say 1/4 rocks, others say they prefer 3/8 lo pro. I've yet to find many discussions in the pros and cons if each.

 

[Nutball]

1/4 .043 can pinch easy, it cuts very smooth, but is difficult in my opinion to get it to cut faster than 3/8. I've found 3/8 .043 cuts fastest, but is still a bit jumpy, Stihl brand might be better about that.

 

[Woodpecker]

Big plans? Lol
View attachment 189024

You know me so well!

 

[fordf150]

i cant give an opinion either way on cutting as I've only ever ran them with 3/8lp. big plus to the 3/8lp is cost.....its dirt cheap....$10 a loop roughly. stihl 1/4" is double that or more from what i have been told. been meaning to get some stihl 1/4" bars and chain in stock but keep forgetting to add them to my stihl order so no idea on actual cost of either.

25ap which is oregon 1/4" .050 is around $19 a loop

 

[00wyk]

I was referring to port timing the cylinder.

Ignition timing change does next to nothing for them, if anything it is counter productive. You can get away with a 1/2” hole in the 2511T muffler to defeat the cat, but it will depend on if they change the exhaust on the rear handle saw.

I have seen cats ruin so many saws. If you can, you prolly want to remove it.

http://opeforum.com/threads/tuning-on-an-echo-2511t.14730/

 

[usmcbuckwild]

I have seen cats ruin so many saws. If you can, you prolly want to remove it.

http://opeforum.com/threads/tuning-on-an-echo-2511t.14730/

The difficult part is these mufflers are fully brazed all around the seam. I no longer have an oxy/acetylene torch to separate the muffler. Cutting it is an option, but I am not currently setup to weld it back together. Trying to do things that the average guy can do with hand tools in his garage to make his saw perform as it should.

 

[livemusic]

The difficult part is these mufflers are fully brazed all around the seam. I no longer have an oxy/acetylene torch to separate the muffler. Cutting it is an option, but I am not currently setup to weld it back together. Trying to do things that the average guy can do with hand tools in his garage to make his saw perform as it should.

Are you saying you that drilling a hole in the muffler suffices as a muffler mod to get rid of the cat 'problem?'

 

[Graf]

i cant give an opinion either way on cutting as I've only ever ran them with 3/8lp. big plus to the 3/8lp is cost.....its dirt cheap....$10 a loop roughly. stihl 1/4" is double that or more from what i have been told. been meaning to get some stihl 1/4" bars and chain in stock but keep forgetting to add them to my stihl order so no idea on actual cost of either.

25ap which is oregon 1/4" .050 is around $19 a loop

Or Sugihara 1/4" bar and its proper 0.43 chain, here we can find them in Echo catalogue as optional parts

 

[usmcbuckwild]

Are you saying you that drilling a hole in the muffler suffices as a muffler mod to get rid of the cat 'problem?'

It helps in bypassing the cat. As others have pointed out these mufflers are a recirculation type, the exhaust gases pass through a an inner chamber to the opposite side of the muffler, pass through the cat, then pass through the rest of the muffler to exit the outlet. Drilling the 1/2” hole (or possibly larger, i haven’t ventured to going much larger yet) properly through the muffler shell as well as that inner chamber helps bypass the cat and relieve the back pressure from being forced to go through the cat.



In this pic (compliments of @J. Dirt from the other thread) you can see the inner chamber housing the cat as well as the shell and how far the exhaust has to travel and the “restriction” as well as the multiple angles the gases have to move through. The heat plate behind the cat does not offer much room for the gasses as they proceed through the cat.

If you don’t want to or are incapable of disassembling the muffler, the drilled hole appears to be the best (cheapest and easiest) option.

 

[J. Dirt]

I believe @Scotty Overkill did the drill method with no complaints. I tried brass brazing mine back together major pia couldn’t get anything to stick right. I do think it’s stainless steel?


As far as the bar and chain I got mine with a 14” 3/8lp .050 because I’ve got other saws with the same. I tried 3/8lp .043 on it, much smoother yet harder to come by. After all the hype I picked up the 1/4” sprocket drum ($35) and the 14” stihl bar and chain combo. A few bar mods and she’s on. Haven’t had a chance to try it as of yet.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

That small uncomplicated exhaust, it just looks so complicated when in 3parts,,

you wanna draw a flow patern diagram. So I can picture it in my drunken head..

 

[CR888]

For many a 25cc top handle will never get used for cutting square wood with a stopwatch. Its a precision tool where smooth precise cutting takes priority over outright speed. This is where 1/4" chain can be the preferred option. Sometimes in 3/8 lo pro safety chain can be smoother for top handles or pole saws. Only thing I don't like about 1/4" chain is its price and scummy amount of meat on the cutters for grinding/filing. But this Echo (top handle version) certainly has the attention of tree service workers. I have a reach handle ms201 & ms150. The 201 is a great saw, the 150 in rear handle configuration is a turd. I gave it to my 8y/o nephew who is chainsaw obsessed. He uses it when he comes over together with me. But I have my eye on one of these new 2511's in a rear handle. I want to hear what guys who've used them think.

 

[rumatt]

I have a reach handle ms201 & ms150. The 201 is a great saw

Yeah, I'm really torn between the 201 cem vs this new 2511wes. For a top handle saw I can see the 2511 being gold. So light for one hand operation.

But once you're using two hands, is the magic still there or does something more powerful start to make more sense? Still, It's 2.8 lbs lighter. It's gotta be fun to use.

 

[dgb84]

Yeah, I'm really torn between the 201 cem vs this new 2511wes. For a top handle saw I can see the 2511 being gold. So light for one hand operation.

But once you're using two hands, is the magic still there or does something more powerful start to make more sense? Still, It's 2.8 lbs lighter. It's gotta be fun to use.

What about the 361p from echo? I know it’s not a 201, but I’ll bet it’s a great saw and is substantially cheaper. I’m thinking about a rear handle 2511 or a 361p for a 4 wheeler saw. I don’t need one at all, but needing and wanting are 2 diff things.

 

[fordf150]

For many a 25cc top handle will never get used for cutting square wood with a stopwatch. Its a precision tool where smooth precise cutting takes priority over outright speed. This is where 1/4" chain can be the preferred option. Sometimes in 3/8 lo pro safety chain can be smoother for top handles or pole saws. Only thing I don't like about 1/4" chain is its price and scummy amount of meat on the cutters for grinding/filing.

heard that part from allot of guys as the reason 1/4" is preferred over 3/8lp

 

[livemusic]

What about the 361p from echo? I know it’s not a 201, but I’ll bet it’s a great saw and is substantially cheaper. I’m thinking about a rear handle 2511 or a 361p for a 4 wheeler saw. I don’t need one at all, but needing and wanting are 2 diff things.

I looked into rear handle 2511 versus top handle and I don't think rear handle is even available in USA. I bought top handle for trail clearing and maintenance via hiking by foot and also by ATV and I love the little 2511. How light! I am age 65, so lightweight is good. I wish I would have had it three years ago when I bought my rear handle Stihl 200T. It is awesome, but it's like close to 3 lbs heavier than the little Echo, and 5.2 lbs versus almost 8 lbs is a big difference. Cheers for my first Echo saw, I have all Stihls and a Husky 346.