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Did these Caber rings pass quality control?

Cut4fun

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How are the Hyway rings? Any good? Thanks

Not a clue yet. But info I was fed to use them with their kit to see. Because I was going to use caber or oem.
Also told they are ductile iron material high strength high hardness toughness.

HL should have some in a few weeks with the kits. ;)
 

Cut4fun

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Well what the hell could it be?

Would have to look closer. But had that caber set a couple of years now. So seeing flaws is nothing new IMO.
I had a 066 piston in a poulan and I was going to rering it. But went back to oem 1 ring piston instead.
 

legdelimber

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Regarding the rings in Chainsaw Jims original post.
The pitting on the O.D. (face) and change in surface finish, simply looks like the stock needed a few thousandth more machined off to get below the "as cast finish".
Cast ingots will not be dead true round, so you need to have enough over sized or excess material to allow for cutting until it's round.
You need to have enough materiel to get below the surface and any scale or imperfections, for a full, clean cut.
It also affects the tool edge life and accuracy.
Just think like debarking and turning a log to get a dowel rod.

I wouldn't want to run them if the void would be located in the area of a port edge.
That's an area of lots of flexing for them.

As for OCD?
My OCD would want to grab my best, low usage, calipers (No tip/jaw wear) and check them for width, all the way around.
Yes. I still have a pair of Mitutoyo dial calipers that I can trust to see less than a half thou with no problem.
Just depends on my arthritis nowdays though, as to IF I could still do the job.

P.S. Things like this are why you still need a good operator/Machinist on the machine.
We're supposed to watch out for things like this.
 
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Funky sawman

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Regarding the rings in Chainsaw Jims original post.
The pitting on the O.D. (face) and change in surface finish, simply looks like the stock needed a few thousandth more machined off to get below the "as cast finish".
Cast ingots will not be dead true round, so you need to have enough over sized or excess material to allow for cutting until it's round.
You need to have enough materiel to get below the surface and any scale or imperfections, for a full, clean cut.
It also affects the tool edge life and accuracy.
Just think like debarking and turning a log to get a dowel rod.

I wouldn't want to run them if the void would be located in the area of a port edge.
That's an area of lots of flexing for them.

As for OCD?
My OCD would want to grab my best, low usage, calipers (No tip/jaw wear) and check them for width, all the way around.
Yes. I still have a pair of Mitutoyo dial calipers that I can trust to see less than a half thou with no problem.
Just depends on my arthritis nowdays though, as to IF I could still do the job.

P.S. Things like this are why you still need a good operator/Machinist on the machine.
We're supposed to watch out for things like this.
Wow, great first post! Welcome to the forum legdelimber!
 

5000+

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Counterfeit?
 
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