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Deck framing questions

Discussion in 'Construction' started by junkman, Oct 3, 2016.

  1. junkman

    junkman Crush it

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    Need some input on framing this 24x26 deck ,have concrete poured on 8 foot centers ,is 2x6 pressure treat strong enough to span 8 feet or do i need to go 2x8 ?and in the center where no overhang ,do i need a board below the deck to hold the joists up in the center area ,or can i just notch the beams and frame in between them ? ,i was thinking 4x6 for more strength if seam every 8 feet ,i was going to add a board around the outer edge because of overhang to set the floor framing on ,but wondering if the center is really needed like that ? i have a ledger board 2x8 attached to the house already to start off of . deck framing 002.jpg
     
  2. exSW

    exSW Going,going..Gone

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    2x8 is the minimum for floor joist.
     
  3. dall

    dall Soon to be banned fart knocker.

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    a 2x6 will span it but will feel spongy id go with 2x8
     
  4. paragonbuilder

    paragonbuilder Jon1212 Approved!

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    I'm not sure what exactly your getting at in the center. Typically the beam is under the joists, especially if you are cantilevering out past them.
    And Dallas is right, 2x6 will meet code, but I wouldn't even consider it or give a customer an option. 2x8 for sure.


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  5. Big1066ih

    Big1066ih Pinnacle OPE Member

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    Headers under the joise is how we do it, doing a 15x26 now. 2x12 headers, 2x8 joise 12" on center
     
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  6. Greenthorn

    Greenthorn Least Informed OPE Member

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    I built my pool deck with 2x6 joist, and I have 5 foot spans, it's exactly how dall describes, spongy! If I done it again they would definitely be 2x8's, but I was trying to be cheap... I regret it.
     
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  7. junkman

    junkman Crush it

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    I was going to header the outside perimiter of the deck for the overhang ,and maybe frame like this on the posts in the field ? makes attaching to the house all the same height this way .[​IMG]
     
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  8. exSW

    exSW Going,going..Gone

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    I'd drop the beam down and stack my floor joists on the beam instead of using joist hangers. Just my preference. Gravity sucks.
     
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  9. junkman

    junkman Crush it

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    I was going to use 8 foot boards so i can haul them in my truck easier ,thought it would tighten it up at same time ,i will try to get an image of house side where i have to attach to so makes more sense why i don't want dropped headers in the field .
     
  10. paragonbuilder

    paragonbuilder Jon1212 Approved!

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    It will be more solid this way for sure. And my preference as well. The only time I go with flush beams is if it's to low to the ground. But it will work this way Brian.


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  11. dall

    dall Soon to be banned fart knocker.

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    greenthorn you could add a 2x6 along the existing joists or between

    if you do flush beam i dont see a good way to cantilever the end if i remember correctly suppose to only cantilever 1/4 of the supporting span

    using 2x6 or maybe even 2x8 youd have to watch how many people are gonna be on the deck at one time you dont want something to break down and saving a dime on construction cause you to lose a friend to being sued
     
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  12. wildroamer

    wildroamer Winning!

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    I'm building a deck for my Dad. Went with 2x10's to be safe. Spans about 23 feet, so rather than have joists on the beam I made, which would require sistering them, I went flush using hangers
     
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  13. Al Smith

    Al Smith Pinnacle OPE Member

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    The way I look at any framing is there are several ways .If you go the minimum you will get by,might be okay might not .If you go heavier with better lumber it won't cost that much more and you will soon forget about the cost but you'll never forget about pinching pennys .Nothing worse than a spongy floor or a saggy roof .

    Long lumber hauling problem,ladder rack .I've hauled 16 footers on my Ranger ,no problem you just make more trips .
     
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  14. exSW

    exSW Going,going..Gone

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    I once opened the slider in my crew cab and had them stacked on the dash board beside me.

    Yeah,I weren't wrapped to tight back then.
     
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  15. huskihl

    huskihl Sausage Fingers Forever

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    I've loaded 16'ers in the back of a 6'8" Chevy box before. Up over the tailgate. Helps to stack shorter stuff on top. Ratchet the front and rear down and staple a flag on it. Or just use a trailer
     
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  16. An-En

    An-En OPE Member

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    If humans are going to walk on it 2x8 is minimum for joist. Don't forget to crown every board so you don't end up with uneven surface.
    Since you are going with joist hangers make sure to nail em in righteously.
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2016
  17. woodtool89

    woodtool89 I'm a living regret

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    In a world of my own.....
    I haul 24' square tube all the time on my 3500 short bed cummins, one end on the tailgate other end on the "headache" rack....wouldn't want to go mush longer though hahah
     
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  18. huskihl

    huskihl Sausage Fingers Forever

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    Yessir. Headache rack changes everything
     
  19. woodtool89

    woodtool89 I'm a living regret

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    In a world of my own.....
    the top of my tailgate has a flat spot all the way across at the angle the material sits on it....I cant do 24' with the gate down because the it gets too close to the ground in the rear and too high in the front...it sits around 11' tall in the front any taller and ill be catching wires or bridges
     
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  20. KiwiBro

    KiwiBro Super OPE Member

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    Can't say I' a fan of piercing a perfectly good building envelope to fix a stringer to the side of the house, through the house cladding. Far prefer to build the deck completely seperate from the house. Needs a bit more timber and bracing, but the house cladding remains unmolested. Here, we have some BS prescribed method of 12mm spacing, special rubber washers, etc, for the stringer fixing to house. Gives me the hebejebees.

    Not saying this is the case in this post, but just a sideways tangent. Designing a deck that will pass muster with the council is on my holiday work list. It'll be on 10" joists on 8 or 10" bearers, braced, anchored, and stand-alone without any direct fixing to the house. I also feel it my duty to remove as many shiny bits of metal as possible because I just hate the BS dependence on proprietary fixings, having recently spent over $2k on the bloody things to keep the council magpies happy on a reno.
     
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2016
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