High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Custom depth gauge

MarkEagleUSA

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One thing I forgot to mention... it has no auto-off, which I find odd... I guess it saves $.03 on the cost.

I have an idea to try and make it spring loaded. It may mean ordering a couple more to use as sacrificial lambs.
 

Cut4fun

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There is some nice fully adjustable factory raker gauges out there. Best IMO is the old oregon ones.
I have another style I dont even use anymore.

Think I have a 020 left and even a 035 040. About 5 025. Check them because they all set different. I have one that was pretty accurate and set the others to the side.
 

Philbert

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So, it looks like a 6 rivet distance (center to end) would reach the next forward cutter on skip-tooth chain, and a 7 rivet distance would reach the cutter to the rear. Averaging out at a 14 rivet spread overall would be a 'safe', symmetrical base size. Since chain pitch (e.g. .404) is measuring between any 3 rivets, then dividing by 2, a 14 rivet spread on .404 chain would equal 5.656 inches (round off at 6 inches). That would be the maximum base needed for hand held saws.

For full comp (standard, non-skip tooth) chain, only a 4 rivet distance forward, and 5 rivet distance rearward is needed, or 10 rivet spread overall for a symmetric base. On 3/8 pitch chain, that would equal 3-3/4 inches. This is what you made, what I would use most, and would be more compact.

I think that I will copy your base, and make a supplemental 6 inch base that can be taped on below, if needed. Since the tool lets you zero out at any measurement, this would still be easy to use, and more convenient to carry or store.

Philbert
 

Bilge Rat

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Starrett makes an attachment for their calipers that does the same thing. It is 3" long

I do like the shorter tire gauge with the angle.
A starrett caliper is a little overkill, after all we are only working on a chainsaw.
 

Bjorn

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I usually use grinder to set the hight on the rakers, works good for me.
 

fossil

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I started making my own because of lack of local availability.DSCF4249.JPG

A little trial and error but if you have a tooth and raker where you want it. It should't be too hard to make one. I use a putty knife blade as they are pretty hard steel.
 

Willard

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Hey you guys are onto something!!
In the 1980s early '90s our logging camp safety committee made their monthly safety tour around all our cut and skid crews.
They had a pretty expensive machinist depth gauge tool, can't remember if it was digital or not.
But they'd stick that thing on all our saw's rakers and record everything. No lower then .030" was the rule but I did argue .038" at the witness marks at the back of my cutters with rep from my Carlton File O Plate.

Those blue digital depth gaugits your showing there looks like the same company style as my Canadian Tire MasterCraft calipers and yes they have a good reliable auto shutoff .
They go on sale for $10 US twice a year. Mine shows fractions of a inch also.
20200107_093542.jpg
 
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