CS milling large burl??

[Marshy]

I just did some maple that I could not believe how smooth it was. I use 8* on my vice and 55* on my head tilt. I use the husky roller guide to set my rakers with the soft wood setting. The chain was hungry and in another sharpening will be about perfect. Surface finish in most areas looked like a band saw. Very much improved over the ugly washboard that you can get. I also installed a winch so idk how much of a factor that played either.

 

[Lightning Performance]

My winch is now on the small mill. Hope to attack a waiting Cherry burl next week sometime. Lo pro is in my future for the 3/8 36" 050 wn es bar. Next will be the 24" lp b+c purchase. Not seeing a future in anything smaller. The 60" is now here
Still running a 15* top plate needing more hook. Might try 10* for the burl cut.

 

[Marshy]

Can you run 3/8 LP on a normal 3/8 setup? Or does the sprocket and bar need to be changed? My bar is 0.063 gauge and I run standard 3/8 but I'm all about making the process more efficient.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Can you run 3/8 LP on a normal 3/8 setup? Or does the sprocket and bar need to be changed? My bar is 0.063 gauge and I run standard 3/8 but I'm all about making the process more efficient.

Yes and no. The cut width is the limiting factor running lp on standard bars. As Shawn Carr has stated at some point the chain becomes too narrow on a standard bar. The tip (sprocket) needs to be worn or the sprocket teeth filed narrow so the chain will track correctly.
My bars are 050.

 

[Marshy]

So the 3/8LP bar is narrower because the kirf is smaller... I see.
No way I'm swapping my setup then. I have a 44" cannon. Sounds cost prohibitive to make the switch. Probably marginal gain.

 

[Lightning Performance]

So the 3/8LP bar is narrower because the kirf is smaller... I see.
No way I'm swapping my setup then. I have a 44" cannon. Sounds cost prohibitive to make the switch. Probably marginal gain.

Maybe....
Try some LP around the sprocket nose. Used is better with more room to accept the standard 3/8 nose sprocket teeth. You will have a birds eye views of the cutter and the sprocket loaded with chain. A straight edge will tell you how much cutter is beyond your bar to eat wood. No real changes required but a sprocket with fat segments on the drive pins. That will help the chain ride high in the rim.

Edit. You will need an 050 bar to have a look. I missed the fact your using 063. I have both up to 36" bar lengths.

 

[RI Chevy]

Sharpen the chain to suit what you have!

 

[Semotony]

So the 3/8LP bar is narrower because the kirf is smaller... I see.
No way I'm swapping my setup then. I have a 44" cannon. Sounds cost prohibitive to make the switch. Probably marginal gain.

If only left coast supply had gotten the GB bars- .050 3/8, longer than the 30" I did get from Greg. The darned thing seems to run faster than square chisel (3/8 .063) but haven't had much opportunity to make use. Have gotten 25 feet reel of archer chisel in 3/8 .050, made a couple loops. Have used 50" & 60" cannon bars on a fat Maple so no use for the smaller bars (20 & 30") but soon on the logs, branches that the HO was promised a bench. See which chain works best.
Narrower kerf prolly a big part of it.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Its faster than my H chains but pays the price in dry wood like white oak. Every log is different. I'm learning fast.