Crank mounting tool - crank threads

[Tor R]

Thanks Tor
How you feeling?
I was thinking about you the other day. I was at my dealer picking junk from out back. When I got home I relized I got a 395 heated handle in there.

Guess I need to convert my 395 to an XPG now.

Thank you Brian
Its going a bit up and down, guess my patience isnt the strongest side

And ya, you gotta rebuild your 395 now

 

[czar800]

 

[Tor R]

Here is a question for your guys.
266 had two different crank versions, on flywheel side is it metric fine threads, ie M8×1, and I am aware that there was two different clutches, is those differences 1/2" UNC versius M10×1?

 

[Stackowood]

There was a early coarse thread version on the Jons 630, so I assume same on the 266. I think I have the tool, but no way to correctly measure the thread pitch.

 

[Stackowood]

Tor- I found the tool. It is stamped "1/2 11" so I'm guessing 11 threads per inch is the pitch. Strange they would use a SAE thread!

 

[Tor R]

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Tor- I found the tool. It is stamped "1/2 11" so I'm guessing 11 threads per inch is the pitch. Strange they would use a SAE thread!

thanks bud,
The 1/2" 11 doesnt make sense for me, 1/2" UNC is 13 pitch, do you know what type threads 1/2" 11 is?
Later when they went for fine threads for 266 it was M10×1 counterclockwise threads for the PTO, ie, 346 threads.

 

[Stackowood]

It looks coarser (is that a word?) than standard 1/2-13 NC, so all I can guess is that it really is 1/2-11.

 

[Tor R]

It looks coarser (is that a word?) than standard 1/2-13 NC, so all I can guess is that it really is 1/2-11.

I see if I can remember to ask Magnus.
I read a bit part info from partstree, PTO threads should be the same for the old 266, 162, 61, 65 and 77.
Flywheel nut should be M10×1, it cover 162, 181, 266, 268, 272, 281, 288, 394, 395, 61, 66.

 

[Stackowood]

I read a bit part info from partstree, PTO threads should be the same for the old 266, 162, 61, 65 and 77

Yes I think I had an older 61 with the coarse threads. The Jonny 630 was derived from the 162, so that makes sense.

 

[beaglebriar]

@Tor R @Stackowood can you you guys get me some
dimensions like bolt length and thread size? I drilled and tapped a m16x1.5 bolt today with the m8x1 internal threads. Just want to make sure my bolt length and OD are correct.

Also if one of you could give me the OD/ID and length of the socket for 372,365 etc. and any other pertinent dimensions that would be great.

I plan to make a bolt/ threaded portion for the flywheel side as well but it will be a little tricky because I don't have any left hand thread taps. I'll probably cut up an old clutch and weld the threaded part on to a bolt???

 

[Tor R]

@Tor R @Stackowood can you you guys get me some
dimensions like bolt length and thread size? I drilled and tapped a m16x1.5 bolt today with the m8x1 internal threads. Just want to make sure my bolt length and OD are correct.

Also if one of you could give me the OD/ID and length of the socket for 372,365 etc. and any other pertinent dimensions that would be great.

I plan to make a bolt/ threaded portion for the flywheel side as well but it will be a little tricky because I don't have any left hand thread taps. I'll probably cut up an old clutch and weld the threaded part on to a bolt???

the bolts who come with 50 and 60 CC kits are normally around 48-50 mm threaded in lenght, but to describe it a bit better, if your crank has very long axels you need longer bolts
And yes, you can defently use one old clutch and wield it to your bolt (just remember to bore up your bolt for the crank tap since 372 has inboard clutch), when we crank them together it isnt that much torque we use, your idea should work out 100%.

I dont have the 372 kit, but I think @Stackowood may have the kit and can provide you with the info

 

[beaglebriar]

the bolts who come with 50 and 60 CC kits are normally around 48-50 mm threaded in lenght, but to describe it a bit better, if your crank has very long axels you need longer bolts
And yes, you can defently use one old clutch and wield it to your bolt (just remember to bore up your bolt for the crank tap since 372 has inboard clutch), when we crank them together it isnt that much torque we use, your idea should work out 100%.

I dont have the 372 kit, but I think @Stackowood may have the kit and can provide you with the info

Cool. Thanks Tor[emoji4]

 

[Tor R]

Cool. Thanks Tor[emoji4]

Your idea is very clever, I never thought about it this way, but the way I see it is that you have helped many with your solution.

 

[beaglebriar]

It's funny I was looking to purchase the tools the other day after having trouble installing some seals then I stumbled across this thread.

The $50 price tag is what led me to try making them.

I prefer to use heat to install the bearings so the tools I will build will mainly be used for installing the seals. Getting them in straight and at the proper depth has always been the my biggest issue.

If I can gather all the specs I will make them as close as I can to the OEM tools.

 

[Stackowood]

dimensions like bolt length and thread size? I drilled and tapped a m16x1.5 bolt today with the m8x1 internal threads. Just want to make sure my bolt length and OD are correct.

Also if one of you could give me the OD/ID and length of the socket for 372,365 etc. and any other pertinent dimensions that would be great.

@beaglebriar here are the pics of the 372 kit. The screws are about 2-3/8" long, M8x1 for flywheel, M14x1.25 (LH) for clutch, and they are both 18mm od with some sort of fine metric thread.

The socket (sleeve) is 35mm long, 18mm ID, 27mm OD, and 40mm OD on the shoulder.

The inside recess in the shoulder is 35mm, which is the same as the OD of a 6202 bearing, but that really makes no sense since you only want the sleeve to be up against the inner race of the bearing. Maybe Husky designed this one to also push in the PTO side seal but I don't have a 372 torn down to confirm that.

 

[beaglebriar]

@beaglebriar here are the pics of the 372 kit. The screws are about 2-3/8" long, M8x1 for flywheel, M14x1.25 (LH) for clutch, and they are both 18mm od with some sort of fine metric thread.

The socket (sleeve) is 35mm long, 18mm ID, 27mm OD, and 40mm OD on the shoulder.

The inside recess in the shoulder is 35mm, which is the same as the OD of a 6202 bearing, but that really makes no sense since you only want the sleeve to be up against the inner race of the bearing. Maybe Husky designed this one to also push in the PTO side seal but I don't have a 372 torn down to confirm that.

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Awesome! Thanks so much man. I'll see what I can come up with and report back. I love this forum![emoji16]

 

[Mattyo]

Tor, gonna thread jack here and put a link to my vids... similar tools, made cheap with no "special" tools. no lathe, no welding

I'll get some PTO side tools done, and do vids of those.

 

[Tor R]

I dont mind at all that you put in info here Matt.

Huskies flywheel side is plain simple, if we forget those small old Huskies like 44 and 242 (M8), all we need is two bolts, M8×1 and M10×1, those two cover the whole lineup from around 1980 until today

As socket tool, well, I do understand that you dont plan to use your lathe, but you may consider to make just 2 sockets because you are gone earn in lots of time. One for 6202 bearing and one for the big husky bearing

 

[beaglebriar]

Here's what I came up with. I have a 372 ready to assemble so we'll see how they work.

 

[Mattyo]

Yes!! Those look waaaaayyyyy nicer than mine.

With that spacer you can use it on the inner race or on the case.... but I think the whole point of these tools is to use them on the inner race.

Very very nice