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Crank bearing thread

Johnmn

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Alright lots of 20+ year old saws being built lately. I noticed some replace bearings some don't. I have been told that bearings should last two top end rebuilds, not sure if that's real accurate or not? I know some guys flush them with WD-40 and see how smooth they are and see if there is play. And some guys just automatically replace the bearings. What's your thoughts on brands, methods of install ect.
Me myself I usually use OEM bearings but I have used cross bearings from HL supply and to be honest I don't know if I can tell a difference. I like heat and mattyo's tool works pretty slick.
 

rattler

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I like skf bearings but that's just me if I split a case I replace the bearings and I will never put in another set of ceramic bearings again again that is just me
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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When I rebuild a saw, the crank bearings and seals are just a matter of course for me, especially when the saw is older. I have been getting SKF bearings for about 5 bucks each. So all in, it costs about $30 to replace the bearings and seals including the gasket set. I consider it a small investment in the longevity of the rebuild. That's just me.

I've had bearings that felt fine when rolling the crank in the assembled bottom end only to find them gritty rolling them in my hand after removing them from the case. Yeah most could probably be cleaned and reused, but for 30 bucks I choose to KNOW the bottom end is fresh.
 

Johnmn

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When I rebuild a saw, the crank bearings and seals are just a matter of course for me, especially when the saw is older. I have been getting SKF bearings for about 5 bucks each. So all in, it costs about $30 to replace the bearings and seals including the gasket set. I consider it a small investment in the longevity of the rebuild. That's just me.

I've had bearings that felt fine when rolling the crank in the assembled bottom end only to find them gritty rolling them in my hand after removing them from the case. Yeah most could probably be cleaned and reused, but for 30 bucks I choose to KNOW the bottom end is fresh.
Where do you get your bearings? There $15 each around me
 

Wonkydonkey

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I like this thread already,,

I used to ride bikes, and belong to. The bike club. lots Peeps got secondhand bikes and they hand different probs. Little ends,, poor compression, leaking seals. but we had a member. That worked for Honda motorcycles Uk, his advise was always sought after.

A few things that he said, have already been said.. lf you have to split the cases, then fit new bearings, you don’t want to find out in 10/20k miles more that you should have, and do the whole splitting thing again, it’s a big job so don’t scrimp otherwise your gonna pay twice.

But secondhand bikes, peeps buy them broken, fix um cheap and sell them, then you buy them and it turns out to be an old piece of crap where everything else seems to be going wrong. Just look around how many builders just replace. Impulse, carb boot. Fuel line. And say. It’s cheap insurance....

So to me if I had to split the case I would fit new bearing. If It was the saw needed the fitting of new seals, I would do my best to ascertain if there was any bearing problem, (remember no clocks to see how much time it has been used) then decide when to split and fit. Not fit seals and sell, like it seemed that this was the way with motor cycles.

Edit: yes it was true in motorcycles, two top end rebuilds then new bottom end, but you brought the saw 2nd hand,, so that goes out the window, when. The seller bulls you saying what ever he thinks he feels fit..to say

And he never told you he loved running it without an air filter.



Cheers
 
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Wonkydonkey

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As for ceramics of the bearing type, there great.... only if you put them in with absolutely no stresses,, otherwise they fail much sooner than normal bearings with the same stresses applied.

So for the average guy, with average tools and average brains and time in hands, fit normal known good life bearings
 

XP_Slinger

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I’m the same way as many are in here. When I go through a saw, whether to keep or sell, I always change the bearings. Like Joe said, better to know for sure then it is to ASSume they’re ok. I build them to last and I wouldn’t want a fatigued bearing cage coming apart only to roach the cylinder, piston and likely lower rod bearing. Bearings are a whole lot cheaper than all that stuff.

All that said I wouldn’t criticize someone with more experience than myself if they evaluate and determine the bearings are good and don’t need to be changed.
 

dustinwilt68

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I would never trust na ceramic bearings in a woods saw, as we have seen dominant won't stand behind there product, so I would never use them. I typically replace most bearings when splitting a case, but a good bearing is a good bearing and there is no guarantee a new bearing will outlast a good used bearing either.
 

blsnelling

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I put them in a work saw Brad last fall they now have play in them I have not tore the saw down yet but will post pix when I do I put them in with heat and used a crank install tool for centering.
Did they have the white or grey balls?
 

Al Smith

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I've worked on a lot of saws and other than the 200T's seldom seen a bad bearing except on a Stihl 048 .Never I might add on a McCulloch .
My opinion is if they fail it's only because of two reasons,lack of lubrication or being fouled with ingested grit .Could be a faulty air filter or a funky seal .
 

Al Smith

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Now as far as ceramic bearings ,I for one can't get too excited about them .Some years back I had several long winded telephone conversations with Dean,Klick AKA "Washington hot saws " about them .He was really gung ho on the idea .What ever became of him or the bearings I have no idea .
 
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