Couple of Ms261-cm questions.

[Patric Mudge]

Hi everyone,

Just had a few questions on the technical side for the other MS261c-m owners.
First is about the oiler. I can't seem to get a decent sling off the end of the saw. I've got the oiler wound right out and I'm running synthplus oil but I can't get the thing to oil to what I am used to with the old 260 or any of the older saws. I feel like its being super skimpy, maybe a economy thing?

Also my next question is about the piston. I have ran it for about 5 tanks now and decided to pop the exhaust off to check everything was running in nicely and I have found a scratch on the top part of the cylinder. You can just feel it if you run a pick over it. Running 48:1 stihl HP Ultra (I know it should be 50:1 but I run it a tincy bit richer for run in) with premium unleaded fuel. Something to worth worrying about?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Gary Courtney]

50:1 vs. 48:1 is so minute.I would run 32:1 or minimum 40:1.Run it!

 

[Patric Mudge]

Well I'm estimating 48-1, it's probably closer to 43:1 as its an additional 15ml in a 5L tank! I got warned off using anything but 50:1 by other posts on the forum due to carbon buildup in the exhaust port? All my other tools like pole pruners etc I run on 40:1 but apparently it messes with the m-tronic!

 

[angelo c]

On the oiler ...
Make very sure the oil "port" is open and clear. There is a tiny oil hole on the bars that must be cleaned often to get oil to the chain best. Also a bar groove cleaning will do wonders. I would start there.
On the 50:1 only for CM/AT saws...I call BS. I haven't run 50:1 on a single OPE since I started paying attention.
If your saw is a new under warranty saw then I'd bring it back for a check on that carbon stripe. If it were mine I'd break it down and see what it was all about. If it were a service saw....id run it.

 

[Dustin4185]

Mine oils well for what it is. It's not pooling up on the bar like some saws do, but it oils just fine. I run 40:1 in my Mtronic saws with no problems. I would at least go to 40:1. I understand buying the Stihl ultra because it usually kicks the warranty up a little, but if I'm not mistaken, the 261 is considered a pro saw and only has a 90 day warranty.

 

[huskyboy]

40:1 is what I run. 32:1 might be a little too rich for the mtronic/autotune saws with certain oil I’ve heard.

 

[RI Chevy]

I would also try a different oil. Take a peek at the oil thread as most all of your questions have been asked and answered x1000! lol
As far as the oiler goes, definitely check the bar groove and the clutch cover as Angelo said. I have also found that when my adjustable oilers were finicky, I took the screw opened and closed it a few times and then set it just a tick off of full.
Also check the little vent near where the saw and bar meet. Should be the little spring loaded ball bearing thingy and stuff.
Lastly, it could be a worn worm gear or clogged oil filter. Just clean out the bar groove, clutch cover, and side of the saw where the bar meets the saw. Please let us know how you make out and what you come up with.

 

[Patric Mudge]

Sorry I should have said. It's a brand new saw from a stihl dealer and I have only put 5 tanks through it (owned it for about 5 days) It's for personal use not professional so stihl UK carries a 1 year warranty as long as you can prove that it's for personal use (usually by the hour counter on the M-tron). It was skimpy on oil before I even put it to wood. I have blown the bar out with a compressor and cleaned it all up and tried again but it still seems low on oil

 

[Patric Mudge]

Just to add it's a minor scratch not a carbon line. It's clean, almost like there was a bit of swarf in there during assembly. Here's the bottom part of the Piston

 

[RI Chevy]

I personally would take it back and show the dealer. Explain the situation to them. They may change out the oiler setup. And they can check out the piston and cylinder at same time.
Just FYI, I have saws 15-20 years older than that with lots of tanks through them where the piston and cylinder look better than the your new one.
I would have them document and check it out.

 

[Patric Mudge]

Typical... I've been super gentle on it and followed the manual about not going WOT for the first 3 tanks and I've gently bed it in. I always somehow end up with a lemon!

 

[RI Chevy]

Nah. Don't worry. I am sure they will make it right. If you never looked at it, it would probably run for years and years.
I would switch oils, and bump up to 40:1, and really be conscious of the tune.
You will be fine. [emoji106]

 

[Patric Mudge]

I'll take your advice on that then! I will go and ask. Its a very minor scratch and it looks like it had been done during manufacture as its not a score. There's not a mark anywhere else on the piston or cylinder! I'll mention it to the Stihlership but maybe I am being a bit over the top because I parted with a fair amount of money for it! Got a recommended oil? On the tune front, there isn't much I can do with it being a M-tronic!

 

[RI Chevy]

Lol. You got me on that tune issue. I simply forgot. I was thinking MS260. Lol
As far as oils go, peruse through the oil thread. Many people like many different oils. Maybe give fellow member @bwalker a PM. He is one of the most knowledgeable guys I know on oils.
That said. I use Red Armor, Klotz, Motul 800, and VP oils. I have some Honda HR2 and Yamalube 2R I have to try that have great been recommended by some respected engine builders. Others have used Amsoil Saber.
Not really sure what you have access to across the pond.

 

[RI Chevy]

Oil thread.
http://opeforum.com/index.php?threads/98/

 

[bwalker]

I personally would take it back and show the dealer. Explain the situation to them. They may change out the oiler setup. And they can check out the piston and cylinder at same time.
Just FYI, I have saws 15-20 years older than that with lots of tanks through them where the piston and cylinder look better than the your new one.
I would have them document and check it out.

That looks like a fairly big piece of debris got in there or from a really bad port chamfer. Does the mark extend about the rings?

 

[Dustin4185]

I would take it back and have them look at it. I use red armor and Yamalube 2R at 40:1 with good results on Mtronic saws.

 

[RI Chevy]

That looks like a fairly big piece of debris got in there or from a really bad port chamfer. Does the mark extend about the rings?

Thank you Ben. Appreciate you stepping in to help out here. All of you have much more experience and expertise than I. [emoji106]

 

[Patric Mudge]

Thanks for all the replies! Considering it has less than an hour of run time it's pretty disappointing. The mark stops just before the rings. Its like a piece of grit/swarf got in there and scratched it up. This is exactly why I pulled the plug and exhaust after the run in period!

 

[Patric Mudge]

Just to Add I found out about Stihl's warranty for the UK. It's 2 years on any product in the current catalogue used in the domestic environment and 1 year for any tool used in the professional environment. It doesn't seem to differentiate between between tools, just where they are used so hopefully I will have a 2 year warranty as I'm technically a domestic user even though it's a "pro" tool. I'll take it into my dealer tomorrow and get their opinion on the score. I'm more worried about whatever caused it being in the crankcase bouncing about. So hopefully update tomorrow!