Compressor fail seized AC

Afternoon ladies and gents.
My wife's AC compressor seized up. So, I ordered a kit for it. Can't find any contamination in any of the lines. I'm about to blow out the condenser. This'll be the first one I've ever taken apart that didn't have crap through the system. My first....
Has this ever happened to you? 185k just locked up wtf...

 

Is it a GM product?

Steve, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk

 

Toyota Camry 2.2
I probably stomped on it and she went.
Just pulled the top plate on the compressor. I can see damage on the circumference of a flat looking screw drive. Nothing in the top compressor ports, clean. Heavy amounts of green florescent dye in the system.

Guess I should do a black light inspection.

 

My truck is next. 97' Z-71 4x, easy...I hope. No pressure in it.

 

Never had to replace may compressors on those year model trucks for locking up, just leaking. Replace dryer when you replace compressor and expansion valve also.

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Where do they usually leak at on them Chevy trucks ?

 

Compressor case seals. Da big ones. Disturb one and watch it leak.

 

Seems to be better than expected. I only needed a bare compressor and accumulator dryer.
The kit consists of brand new
UAC complete compressor, with wire harness, filled with 6.8 oz of PAG 46 oil (type unknown) seal ring with steel block-off plate

UAC expansion valve and accumulator/dryer

Santech PN: MT2580 green o-rings + 2 top plate seals and about thirty o-rings

8oz bottle of SUPERCOOL® premium synthetic PAG 46 oem spec made for AM a\c systems. Crystal clear oil with a nice package in it.

Should I change the new compressor oil or leave it in there?

 

Just leave it, measure oil from old compressor, if less than two ounces, add two for the compressor, add two for dryer. Unless you are gonna flush out the whole system first.

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A lot of companies that build compressors are putting a full system oil charge in them, that's when you have to do an oil balance to get the correct amount in the system. Don't want to be over charged in oil nor under charged. I rather be 1 ounce over than under.

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Yep, those model compressors were known for leaking. When a complaint came in for a/c not cooling, we went to the compressor first then the clutch cycling switch on the dryer, if ok, leak check and also made sure the door actuators were working.

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Over is better IMO to.
System calls for 8. Comp has 6 and change in it.

R/Dryer is going on dead last before evac.

I'm not touching the evap yet. If it vacs out why bother? The expansion valve did look pretty nice for aftermarket. I don't want to mess with it.

I'm thinking the guy who did a motor in it when her mom owned it, dumped a rod at 90k, might not have been too careful with A/C oil. He mashed the front crank seal. It looked like it was put in with a hammer and screwdriver, no *s-word. I went to pull the drive gear off and it was twisted so bad it sheared right off. Impact gun no doubt. Lucky I got the spark plugs out of it. The owner of that shop fired him in four days he told me. The "wrench" did this crate motor job. I already replaced the front lower case, seal and oil pump assembly, the water pump he failed to do, some mangled vacuum lines, rerouted wiring, fixed the harness casing and correctly routed the right side fan wiring. The shop owner felt bad because he does their family cars for twenty plus years. Guy handed me a check for 250 one day and I handed him all the leftover Toyota parts for his shop. It worked out. I put a Melling end on the motor. It was the only one that fit right. I bought three kits that day to be sure.

All the OEM A/C O-rings were mint I removed. Strange.... it was low on refrigerant. Guess the front comp seal let it go.

I'll measure the old comp oil and move on.

Thanks

Edit
Condenser was clean and empty.

 

I know what you mean, I hate going behind someone's screwup. If you can't do it right, don't do it at all. I've seen some that had over sized bolts put in caused they stripped them out from over torque, instead of drilling and installing an threaded insert, I've also seen seals drove in the way you said. Good luck my friend.

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I used to be a Toyota tech. Worked on many of those 2.2 Camrys, great cars. Sounds to me like something just broke and jammed up the works, rather than the typical compressor implosion we usually see. That many years and miles, plus having a real dummy work on it at some point, and anything can happen. A couple of years ago my sister gave me her old 1998 Mazda 626. Ran fine but needed lots of overdue repairs. Compressor had locked up and sent steel wool looking stuff throughout the system. I put a complete new ac system in it, including lines, condenser, and evaporator. Total cost using Fleabay aftermarket parts was under $500.00 and it's still cooling great today.

 

Zero oil in the old compressor and accumulator That is a big mistake

The five ounces of oil in the new compressor is yellow smells and looks just like PAG 150. 46 is an update for this system. The compressor is tagged with a label on the wire harness 6.8oz PAG 46

I put four ounces of the new 46 oil in the compressor, two in the condenser and two in the evaporator line.