Cleaning chain before sharpening

[RI Chevy]

I just sharpen and use. If I am at home and have my air compressor, I blow off chain first before reinstalling back on saw.

Worst case scenario, I soak in diesel overnight then wipe off and let dry, then sharpen. Diesel and Biodiesel are good solvents.

 

[CR888]

I just want to keep all the crap from loading up in a $100+ wheel.

Fairy-nuff, though you could use $3 pink wheels from Shenzhen province & fear no sap.

 

[Philbert]

Huh. You can link to arboristsite from here just fine, but if you try to link to here from arboristsite, all you get is [THE WEBSITE THAT SHALL NOT BE NAMED]

Yes. And I appreciate the open mindedness of OPE on that issue!

Fairy-nuff, though you could use $3 pink wheels from Shenzhen province & fear no sap.

Do the super cheap wheels work well? I usually use the Oregon, Tecomec, Total, or MoleMab wheels (might all come from the same factory for all I know). About $12 - $14 on sale.

I have had poor experiences with some of the cheap wheels that come on the clone grinders and on the mini-grinders. In my mind, the wheel on the grinder is like the chain on the saw - it is the business end!

Philbert

 

[dahmer]

I’m a retired machinist so a good wheel for sharpening to me is the same as good chains to those who make their living throwing chips. To @Philbert point, the cheap wheels in my experience gave poor finish on the finished edge, providing they didn’t burn the cutter before a poor finish could be obtained.

 

[Philbert]

When I was playing around with the Harbor Freight type grinders (on that website that shall not be named) I got a defective, cheapie wheel from Oregon (wrong ID) and they sent me one of their first line wheels as a replacement. The difference was literally night and day.

Some of the problems that new guys have with grinders has to do with trying to grind too fast. But some has to do with cheap wheels, dirty chains, and not dressing the wheels to expose fresh abrasive. Then they state that grinders don't work.

Philbert

 

[dirter]

I have a 3L I bought for $30..I’d like to have a larger one but mine works great. If you’re like me you’ll eventually throw everything in it, just be careful with solvents..some of them are harsh on aluminum and discolor it quickly. For chains I use purple power. Ive gotten advice on solvents from guys way smarter than I am.. rattler and drf256 specifically. I would tell you to buy as big as you can afford, I think a 10L will submerge a cylinder or flywheel easily (mine won’t) which is very very handy.

Is this advice you speak of in the form of public posts? I just ordered a 10L USC and I already have purple power. Beyond that I'm kinda in the dark.

 

[Philbert]

Is this advice you speak of in the form of public posts? I just ordered a 10L USC and I already have purple power. Beyond that I'm kinda in the dark.

There are several posts on USCs here on OPE and on Arboristsite:

http://opeforum.com/threads/cleaning-agents.8736/



Most focus on carbs.

Philbert

 

[thedude74]

I just sharpen and use. If I am at home and have my air compressor, I blow off chain first before reinstalling back on saw.

Worst case scenario, I soak in diesel overnight then wipe off and let dry, then sharpen. Diesel and Biodiesel are good solvents.

There was a test done by an online magazine or something? Can't remember the source or exact details. Anyway they tested like 30 something solvents like wd40, etc, etc. In the end diesel fuel came in #2 second to only some high priced crap. Dollar for dollar diesel fuel is one of the best cleaner/solvents I've ever used. That said probably not the best choice for working on a stone wheel. Guessing it would soak it up.
A used coffee can and a quart of diesel for $0.75 is damn hard to beat.

I don't generally clean my chains. A couple piss revs before shutting the saw down flings the crap off and coats it in oil. But then I hand file my chains.

 

[RI Chevy]

I use bio diesel. The best solvent there is...

 

[dirter]

Thank you @Philbert I see all those threads are in chainsaws. I was searching just chains and coming up with absolutely nothing, even knowing this thread exists. Frustrating. I’ll get to reading.

And yes @thedude74 for the end of the day file buff I do exactly the same. Prepping for the CBNs has been via gas and wire toothbrush thus far. Hoping the USC is easier and faster. And heck for $60 on eBay I figure why not give it a shot.

 

[Philbert]

Diesel fuel stinks!

The water-based stuff I use in my basement is odorless.

Philbert

 

[dirter]

I use bio diesel. The best solvent there is...

There used to be a biodiesel plant nearby but the owner set it on fire. Didn’t destroy it but I’m pretty sure it’s not in business anymore.
I grew up cleaning everything in gas or diesel. No doubt it works. Heck we even sprayed bees nests with it. Very universal. Not the safest stuff to work with but I figure if it was too awful it would have got me 40 years ago. Of course I never heated it to 150 degrees back then either.

Thanks for all the input. Everyone. Been reading up since I first posted here. I don’t think it’s going to be as intimidating as I at first thought.

 

[Cat 525]

Run em in a hard dry piece of wood for a sec or two, hand file, and keep on cutting! My chains very seldom need be cleaned!

 

[Duane(Pa)]

I use bio diesel. The best solvent there is...

Interesting. Does it reek like the petroleum stuff? One drop of that and you stink like a Woodstock hoe...
A couple noodling cuts will get a chain almost chrome like clean. Then file or grind after a quick rinse in odorless mineral spirits.

 

[RI Chevy]

It's not too bad...

 

[Philbert]

Run em in a hard dry piece of wood for a sec or two . . . My chains very seldom need be cleaned!

A couple noodling cuts will get a chain almost chrome like clean.

We go in circles on this. You guys are talking about 'normal' use. I sometimes get chains that look like they are caked in asphalt. Sometimes have to clean just to inspect.

Philbert

 

[blades]

Chains here all go through he media blaster and then Mineral sprits

 

[CR888]

I don't clean chains every time I use them either, but on occasions I too get this black tar like sap stuff on them that builds up on the side/top plates all around the rivets etc. It kinda sets & you can scrape it off with a finger nail, so I give those a quick scrub with dish soap in the sink (turns water black). Some saps are evil, last week I cut these trees and put my saws away wet/dirty, the next day it acted like acid and ate into my bars leaving spots everywhere, did the same too clutch drums, plastics were fine after a clean. I know exactly what Philbert is talking about.

 

[huskyboy]

If one has to clean chain often, the oiler is either too stingy or not turned up enough.

 

[Philbert]

Some of it depends on the wood, the type of oil, cutting conditions, etc.

Philbert