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jmssaws

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With the velocity you have you may want all the flow the lowers will give you
Very possible. I like the way it runs now but it feels like the transfers and exhaust need to go up a smidge but I could be wrong. It runs like one that has to much blow down.
 

cgraham1

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Does your chain brake work with that handle, @jmssaws ? I tried one of those on my o64, and it didn't clear the brake handle, and the brake handle angle looks like it doesn't match up with the handlebar on yours, either. ?
 

Keith Gandy

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Does your chain brake work with that handle, @jmssaws ? I tried one of those on my o64, and it didn't clear the brake handle, and the brake handle angle looks like it doesn't match up with the handlebar on yours, either. ?
It takea either a 1/2 wrap or a full wrap brake. Ones straight and one is at an angle
 

cgraham1

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The reason I ask, is the Pro Safety wouldn't clear the brake handle on my saw, which is why I made mine the way I did. The one on the left is my saw, the one on the right is a saw with a factory wrap handle. The brake handle on Jason's saw looks a lot like the one on mine. image.jpg image.jpg
 

drf256

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J,

My little brain thinks you should raise the intake to 75 and do nothing else first.

You've suddenly got less case volume, so your ratio has changed. You can't overstuff the case, it's only gonna fill so much. Too much intake will just cause loads of blowback and less case compression. You should have a smaller volume higher velocity transfer charge.

So you should need LESS intake duration. You should need less everything duration.

But your saw should rev higher than a similar 066. You created a smaller motor that should spin higher and the torque peak should be at a higher rpm. Think about the changes you like when you put a 66 jug on a 64, or a 46 jug on a 44. The changes those hybrids like should apply here. You've created a hybrid with the same parts.

That's how I see it, and I may be 100% wrong. Try it first and see what happens. You can always grind some JB weld out.
 
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