Chaps Repair

[Philbert]

The protective fibers of chainsaw chaps are inside: cuts or burns to the outer shell only are mostly cosmetic, but should be repaired to keep out dirt, sawdust, oil, etc., and to prevent further damage. If the fibers have been pulled by a chain strike, the chaps have done their job and should be retired.

The USFS has published some information on this, but it is pretty old, and pertains to their, specific chaps. E.g. STIHL brand chaps are machine washable - check the labels on yours to be sure.

Inspecting and Repairing Your Chain Saw Chaps - USFS
https://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/pdfpubs/pdf05672816/pdf05672816dpi72.pdf

Inspecting, Cleaning, Repairing, and Retiring USDA Forest Service Chain Saw Chaps (0451–2324–MTDC)
https://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/htmlpubs/htm04512324/

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Small cuts in the outside shell can be stitched with thread (don't snag any of the protective fibers). Larger cuts or melted areas should get a patch. Fortunately, many professional pairs of chaps come with matching patch fabric (in the form of a pocket) but sewing these on can be tedious. Retired chaps can also be harvested for patch material, replacement buckles, etc. This is easier if a crew uses the same brand of chaps, for example. I had a few muffler melts in some of our volunteer storm response team's chaps that are shown here (before and after).

'BEFORE'


The USFS recommends gluing shell fabric with 'Seam Grip' - about $8 at REI, Dick's, Cabela's, etc. A lot cheaper than replacing a $100 + pair of chaps. One tube will glue a lot of patches, and can be used for repairing other outdoor gear.



A few tips:

Wash the chaps first (no fabric softener or bleach) and dry completely.

Work a piece of printer or notebook paper between the protective pad and the outer shell to keep glue out of the protective fibers. A few pins help hold the paper in place while gluing.

Use masking tape to mark the repair area, and control glue spread. Wipe the repair area and back of the patch with rubbing alcohol to improve adherence. I painted both sides with a small flux brush, covered the repaired areas with wax paper, and weighted each patch down with a brick to prevent edges from curling.



Small dabs of Seam Grip can be used on abraded areas. Let dry for a couple of days.

If sewing patches, a spring clamp can help hold the protective pads away from the shell material.



Not good enough to return to the dealer, but completely serviceable and professional looking!

'AFTER'


Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Other 'after' photo (forum limits us to 5 photos per post).



Philbert

 

[David _4]

I use iron on patches, one on the inside of the hole and a larger one on the outside. I iron both patches at the same time and put Liquid Stitch where the patch meets the chap fabric. The Liquid Stitch keeps the patch edges from coming up and makes for a long term repair. I get Liquid Stitch at Walmart, the small tube is only $1.00.

 

[Philbert]

I have used other fabric glues from the hobby / crafts stores on other stuff, but wanted to try the Seam Grip because of the USFS recommendation, and because that would make it more acceptable to some folks. Almost like Shoe Goo. Wasn't sure how the craft stuff would hold up to nylon stretching, and to washing. Good to hear that it is working for you.

Also thought about iron on patches, but worried that the heat might damage the protective fibers. And, since muffler heat caused the melt in the first place . . . .

Really impressed how these glued on patches look and feel. And much easier than sewing. Will see how they hold up!

Philbert

 

[David _4]

The temp needed for the patches is safe for the material, at least it is for my Jonsered chaps.

 

[smokey7]

Very nice write up on this @Philbert. I appreciate all of the time and effort you put into your threads. This is very important to make a quality repair to such a important safty device. Personally have opened up a seam near the damaged area and patched from the inside (stitched) and glued on and stitched on the outside. I have yet to have the patches come loose after several washes (i dont machine dry them). I appreciate everytging you bring to the table on the threads you start and the ones you respond to. I have used your information and experience a few times regarding the hf chain grinders and whain cleaning/restoration.

 

[Philbert]

On a pair of wrap chaps I opened up a side seam to stitch the leg straps to the fabric several more inches on each leg, then re-sewed the seams. A bit more work.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/husky-wrap-chaps-mod.126733/#post-2057940

I tried this glue method due to the USFS recommendations, and so far I like it. Rey easy. Especially for patching a number of holes in shared PPE.

Philbert

 

[fearofpavement]

One thing to add to this thread is that if there are multiple pairs of the same brand/style of chaps in use, save any ruined ones (pulled fibers) because if another pair gets used up and it's the opposite leg, it's easy enough to cut them apart and use the two good legs to make a serviceable pair. Mostly it seems to be the left legs that get cut though.

 

[David _4]

Seam Grip does appear to be a better choice than Liquid Stitch, going to have to order some.

 

[FergusonTO35]

I've glued all kinds of fabric and leather items with Loctite Outdoor Adhesive, I bet it would work for this application too.

 

[Philbert]

I use iron on patches, one on the inside of the hole and a larger one on the outside.

Also thought about iron on patches, but worried that the heat might damage the protective fibers.

Just a follow up: I have been looking at some different chaps recently, and all of the care instructions I see say 'Do Not Iron', so I would not recommend the iron on patches.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Clogger Zero Repair

Having nicer, more expensive chaps does not prevent the user from doing stupid things: got the muffler too close to my Clogger Zeros chaps and got a small muffler melt (!). About 3/4 of an inch long, and it did not hit the protective fibers underneath. Still, I wanted something classier, and more permanent than duct tape to keep sawdust, etc., out of there (photo enhanced a bit to show the fabric texture better).



Same procedure as above, *** with a few nuances worth mentioning ***. Whereas the outer fabric on the STIHL chaps (above) feels like heavy pack cloth, the thinner, lighter fabric on these Zero's feels like a poplin dress shirt; still pretty durable, and part of what helps make them so light. But no match for a muffler.

Washed the chaps, carefully cut away the melted glob stuff, and inserted the paper behind / inside the repair (photo shows pin holding it in place). *Because this fabric is thinner, and does not have the urethane coating on the back, the paper should cover the whole area behind the patch, not just the hole, to prevent gluing the outer fabric to the protective fibers, in case there is any leak through.*

Wiped the surfaces with alcohol to clean and improve absorption, masked off the repair area with blue tape, applied glue to one side, covered with wax paper and a brick to prevent curling, and let it be overnight. In the morning I checked to be sure that the outer fabric did not adhere to the protective fibers.



This repair is more visible than on the STIHL chaps (above), possibly due to the lighter color. I am glad that the adhesive extended slightly beyond the patch to prevent any fraying. I am also glad that these really nice chaps are not toast from a careless moment.



It's a reminder to me to be mindful of the muffler as well as the chain. Maybe we can get Clogger, and others, to attach a patch of heat resistant fabric to this area on new chaps, as a 'heat shield' option, to protect against this common damage @Cloggerpro ?

Philbert

 

[Bilge Rat]

The Do Not Iron warning may have more to do with flattening the fibers, making them less fuzzy which could make them slower to build up and jamming the chain.
The bulk, loft of the material is the real chain stopper.
Unless you turn the electric iron on full blast and leave it in the material for over a minute it should not damage the material.
Steam heated irons at work, i am a drycleaner, only get to 300 deg. and are safe on nylon, synthetics and can be used on iron on patches but electric irons can get much hotter.
Spanish moss jams a chainsaw as fast as the chaps do so exotic materials are less important than the bulk/loft of the material.

Spanish moss is not reccomended in your pants. Red bugs/chiggers are not your friend.

 

[Philbert]

The Do Not Iron warning may have more to do with flattening the fibers, making them less fuzzy which could make them slower to build up and jamming the chain.

I am just noting what the manufacturers say.

Some chaps use Kevlar, or other fibers, that are more heat resistant. Some use UHMWPE, which is not (think plastic milk jugs). Some use polyester fibers as fill. Not sure of the specific temperature limits for each. They all seem to also state 'No Bleach', which can also degrade the fibers.

If the fibers bind together into a mat, instead of being individual strands that can get pulled free in a fraction of a second, they might not provide the expected protection. I am just speculating on the reasons why, but I trust the manufacturers who design these products.

Philbert

 

[Bilge Rat]

I see no reason to iron chaps at all. Labels are in part to protect the idiot.
For safety i would follow directions on safety apparel.

I am a little skeptical of care labels on everyday clothes. I have seen a suit made from the same cloth with the jacket saying dry clean only and the pants saying do not dry clean.