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Chainsaw Training Ideas and Resources

WOODS

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Wow glad you are ok that could have gone either way there

Very true. An effective hinge is your best control over a tree. Without one you have no real control. In my complacency, I rendered my hinge useless. The tree was slightly weighed away from me. I don't know if it were a puff of wind or a vine in the canopy that I didn't see.

Ron
 

WOODS

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Philbert,

Unfortunately, I have never had direct training. Fortunately, I have survived. I have cut quite a few storm damaged/downed trees. I have worked one tornado and worked in its aftermath for several years. Among the things I have learned are:

1) Folks seem to single out falling as dangerous - all else is fair game for the inexperienced. First part is true. The latter is wrong wrong wrong.
2) Root balls pose a multitude of hazards.
3) While it is great to have help, untrained help is an accident waiting to happen. Same for observers.
4) There are forces at play that you can't always anticipate. So an escape plan and full concentration/attention is required in all situations.
5) The little stuff can kill or injure you just as easily as the big stuff. Spring poles are just one example.
6) While relief work is often urgent, forming a plan and working it methodically is best and is safer.

Here is an example of #4 & 5 - a wind damage 4 1/2 to 5 feet oak. It was broken 15 feet up.

IMG_2747.JPG


The stem looked normal except for the single vertical split.

IMG_2749.JPG


This is what it really was - numerous vertical splits which would slab off as you cut. Any one of them was big enough to break your neck.

IMG_2750.JPG


Much like peeling an onion to fall it.

IMG_2752.JPG


Finally on the ground. Note the large rope used to pre-load for the fall.

IMG_2756.JPG

Ron
 
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David Young

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Philbert. The shaving is what I am talking about. It seems that is the latest technique. I modified it some and do a steep notch like a rip cut almost until it just starts to close. I pull the bar out and cut the notch. You wil be very close. Then start shaving. A lot faster.

D
 

WOODS

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Repeating the lessons here:
1) Folks seem to single out falling as dangerous - all else is fair game for the inexperienced. First part is true. The latter is wrong wrong wrong.
2) Root balls pose a multitude of hazards.
3) While it is great to have help, untrained help is an accident waiting to happen. Same for observers.
4) There are forces at play that you can't always anticipate. So an escape plan and full concentration/attention is required in all situations.
5) The little stuff can kill or injure you just as easily as the big stuff. Spring poles are just one example.
6) While relief work is often urgent, forming a plan and working it methodically is best and is safer.

The one tornado that I worked with a small group the morning after reinforced the above. Here's a few examples:

#1. We were invited in because some of us had "big" saws. I can own a jet but that doesn't mean I can fly.

In the order of occurrence:

#4. I overlooked a 1" sprig when falling a tree that was blocking the road. It hit me right between the eyes taking me to my knees. If I had been holding the saw differently, I could have been cut badly.

#3, 4, 5 & 6 Trees were hanging everywhere in the supporting cable for telephone and cable lines. I passed one up as being too dangerous. Out of sight and a few pole spans away, I cut a small tree off the cable. With the release of the tension, it shot a shock wave down the cable and dislodged the tree I left causing it to fall. Unknown to me part of the group had decided to work almost directly under it. No one was hit, but they all got an adrenaline boost.

#2, 3, 5 & 6. In just one yard:
I cut a 12' or so root ball with all that entails and had to keep stopping and running to the back side to make sure no one had walked around it despite me explaining to folks it will likely fall back in the hole and to stand clear.

A local firefighter was bucking the stem after I cut the root ball, it rolled and broke his foot putting him out of work for some time.

I cut a small snag after delineating a fall zone. In a matter of seconds and past the critical point of my cut, one worker forgot and attempted to cross. The stem missed him by a foot. Thankfully it had no canopy.

We called it a day after that.

I have no pictures of the above but I have a few taken as we traveled from site to site. The overwhelming debris is another hazard.

IMG_2054.JPG IMG_2059.JPG IMG_2063.JPG IMG_2064.JPG IMG_2078.JPG

Ron
 

WOODS

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Let me hasten to add, only in a life or death circumstance will I ever work another tornado with untrained workers or without a complete plan and someone in charge. Ron
 

Philbert

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Absolutely. Operating a saw is just one part of cutting trees. A work plan, and organization, is an important part of working with groups. And storm damaged trees have their own sets of hazards, even when on the ground.

Philbert
 

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Training for storm damage in my opinion is different than chainsaw training in general. It usually needs to be truncated but still hit on all the important points. Things I would stress are:
How to safely start a saw (and restart)
How to move with a saw that's running
How to not get pinched and what to do WHEN you do.
How to recognize fatigue and why it's important to rest when that occurs
Importance of not ignoring chain slack or dullness and to deal with it in a timely fashion
And most importantly: Be looking up because there's a lot of loose stuff that is going to fall on you and kill you. Even if you're not cutting something, a washing machine in a tree can crush you when it comes down. Tornado damage is so hazardous to work in as it holds every danger possible.
 

Philbert

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Unfortunately, I have never had direct training. Fortunately, I have survived.

I think that that is quite common. Many people either have no formal training, or are taught by a family member or friend who learned by personal experience. I don't want that to sound like I am challenging anyone's knowledge, experience, skills, or abilities. When I was 16, I was handed a chainsaw and shown how to start it. That's it. It wasn't until many years later that I started looking for training and instruction in classes, videos, books, by asking questions, etc. I learned that in many cases, I may not have gotten hurt because I was 'lucky' and not because I was 'safe'.

I have learned a lot from postings on sites like these, and from 'what not to do' videos on-line. I still have a lot learn, and hope to continue to learn.

Some people are taught by co-workers who may be good at what they do, but may or may not be good instructors. Some people experiment and learn from a series of 'near misses' - at least the survivors do. In fact, one of my favorite definitions of experience:

"Experience is a series of non-fatal accidents"​

So, if we can learn from others' experiences, good and bad, we can increase the likelihood of survival, as well as increase efficiency, and share 'best practices' (if that term does not make you gag from over use).

Let me hasten to add, only in a life or death circumstance will I ever work another tornado with untrained workers or without a complete plan and someone in charge.

So how might you train some of those workers if the local Sheriff or Emergency Manager put you in charge? Would you want some time in a classroom first? Are there key things you would point out, even if the workers swear that they 'know how to run a saw'? You mentioned having a work plan earlier, which I like.

When we do the 'field portion' of our training I have students demonstrate whatever we talked about in small groups, and have them verbalize what they are doing; "I am visually checking the saw over for loose or missing pieces. I am checking chain tension. I am verifying that the chain brake works. etc." In addition to 'practice cuts', I try to intentionally set up some safe failures, such as saw binds, so that they can see how they happen, why/when to use wedges, and how to recover, etc. I have them cut with a dull chain and a sharp chain, so they can feel the difference. Again, this assumes that they are new chainsaw users.

Then we try to pair up newer students with more experience sawyers for coaching. I will also try to verbalize what I am doing: "I think that the trunk is resting on this limb, and is likely to go this way if I cut this branch off. I am going to make a relief cut here, then finish from the top. I am concerned about a pinch here. I am cutting here, but keeping an eye on this part of the tree for movement", etc.

Training for storm damage in my opinion is different than chainsaw training in general. It usually needs to be truncated but still hit on all the important points.

Yeah. There is debris, and there are tensions, tangles, and stresses you don't normally find in firewood cutting, like some of WOODS photos show. That's why I like to emphasize that there are different parts to training: safety; how to start/operate/maintain the saw; using the saw; tree hazards; site/crew supervision; etc. The last can be very important when you have a team or crew that does not always work together, and may have different work habits, approaches, perceptions of risk, etc. It can be frustrating, but important, when the most experienced sawyer is not cutting, but supervising the site and the work performed by others.

Philbert
 

Philbert

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Philbert

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WOODS

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So how might you train some of those workers if the local Sheriff or Emergency Manager put you in charge? Would you want some time in a classroom first? Are there key things you would point out, even if the workers swear that they 'know how to run a saw'? You mentioned having a work plan earlier, which I like.

First, the Sheriff would have to put a gun to my head to do this because I am not qualified. Nonetheless, I think the big picture needs to be shown before we equip the volunteers. I don't know the standard protocol for disaster relief but I believe here it was: 1st Search and Rescue. 2nd Securing the Area. 3rd Body Recovery. 4th Restoration of Utilities, Clearing Roadways and Allowing Limited Access for Residents within the contained area. 5th Long Term Cleanup and Reconstruction. I believe a clear understanding of where you fit in will take the edge off and help contain unbridled enthusiasm. I assume most organized charitable chainsaw toting crews come in the 5th category. We were in the 4th. Unfortunately, no one at the command center knew where to send us so we just picked a road and opened a path. With only a basic plan, no training and no a true leader, we quickly ran into trouble. The incident with the tree in the line happened in part because unknown to me, the crew got impatient waiting for me to cut the tree off the line (it took quite a while fence-posting) so they deviated to a clean-up operation near the other hanging tree. The incidents in the yard came after a long frustrating day of hop scotching from place to place looking for road blockages as no one seem to know where they were. We were just doing a victim a favor of cleaning up the yard - something that could have been done weeks later and with a fresher crew.

I am a strong believer in planned and methodical cutting - disaster or no disaster. With experience and a plan, a lot more can be accomplished and done in a safer manner.

Along with a plan, a team needs to know what to expect and how to work together as a team. Every team will likely do things differently but everyone on a team needs to be on the same page. For example, when we came upon an attached but broken tree blocking a road I would assess the situation. If the broken stem was still firmly attached to the trunk, we would secure them with a large rope tied to the deuce. We assigned a flagger on each side in a safe place to block traffic* and the rest of the team stayed behind one of the flaggers. Only the deuce driver and faller were permitted "inside", except in cases where a relay person was necessary. The driver and faller would fall the tree sideways. Once it was firmly on the ground, the other cutters and brush handlers cut it up. On the other hand, the professional line clearance teams approached similar situations in their usual fashion. Two flaggers and a cutter in a bucket truck with a hydraulic pole saw methodically trimming the tree back from the top with a brush handler moving the wood. We could clear a path in about 1/3 the time the pros took, but their way was their way, and was safer due to experience, accustomed team work and fewer folks exposed to risk.

Long intro to my specific answer to your question: Ideally, classroom exposure first, including introduction to the bigger picture. Followed by hands on training. Followed by a field demonstration and hands on field work on trimming back an uprooted tree (or if unavailable a bushy downed tree). Same for brush handlers; they need to know the hazards as well and that they can be a help or a hindrance to safety and production - there is no neutral position. With proper planning for training, I would think that there should be plenty of time and plenty of practice trees to better equip volunteers. Not sure that I would want to be responsible for those not willing to commit to such training. Of course, a situation requiring immediate action without trained hands available is different but rare - despite our enthusiasm, our tornado work wasn't quite as urgent as we believed. IMO rescuing the untrained rescuer is way too common.

Ron

* Yes, even in a contained rural area there is a ton of traffic both local to the area and sightseers who get past law enforcement road blocks.
 

Normzilla

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I do some chainsaw training for storm clean up volunteers, and am always interested in ideas and perspectives on how to do this better.

'Our' training starts out assuming that the students have no knowledge or experience with saws. This can be frustrating for some, but lets us start from a common base level. I always encourage students who 'do things differently' to bring it up for discussion.

In the introductory class, safety is the key concern; we are not looking for speed or production. We do not cover falling, which lets us focus on the saw, and basic operations, such as bucking and limbing. I am always amazed when the owner's manual for new saws often covers tree falling even before showing how to start the saw!

I will post some other things related to chainsaw training, and looking for input, and shared ideas from others.

Thanks!

Philbert

EDIT: I changed the thread title slightly to encourage folks to post additional training resources.
It's a tough one. I work for county roads, way before that I've grown up cutting. So from the beginning till know, I've seen and learned a mixed bag, trees skills etc. Most guys I work with,are not the,best of cutters. I cut everyday, remobals, cleanup, hazards etc. It's really hard to teach and get someone ☝ to the level we are already exposed too. But I feel it's best hands on. Best book I've seen bar none, is the fundamentals of general tree work. It should be every,knew cutters bible. Classes county had taught, by Cal fire captains. Its not much of a class, more then how to hold, start a saw and safety gear. I think any class taught should cover hands on falling, and cutting. For sure falling, because it's only a matter of time with a saw in your hands, you will need to drop one. And if not shown, and nobody else around, a green cutter I bet will always attempt it. Man after 34-35 years I've been cutting and doing tree work it's a lot of stuff learned. Best I can say I tell new guys, going into a tree downed or otherwise. Approach it, and size it up like it's boobie trapped, because it is. Don't be in a hurry, keep your eyes and head moving all directions. I also tell them no two trees are the same, size them up, individually. Always look up, etc etc:) we could write paragraphs pages. I would do as much hands on as possible, and get that book.
 

Philbert

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Finished Visible Two-Stroke Model

IMG_4747.jpg

Leveled the cut surface with sandpaper, then polished it, and the sharp edges, with a ScotchBrite wheel.

IMG_4748.jpg

Epoxied a knob on the flywheel side to 'animate' it (hope it does not screw up the timing!).
For you oil heads, I am running WD-40 at 100:0.
Deleted the base gasket and used blue Permatex on the remaining 2 mounting screws.
Did not add a decomp valve, 'cause I heard that they can leak. . .

Probably looking for a few more 'dead' clamshells now!

Philbert
 
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