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Chainsaw Training Ideas and Resources

Philbert

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I do some chainsaw training for storm clean up volunteers, and am always interested in ideas and perspectives on how to do this better.

'Our' training starts out assuming that the students have no knowledge or experience with saws. This can be frustrating for some, but lets us start from a common base level. I always encourage students who 'do things differently' to bring it up for discussion.

In the introductory class, safety is the key concern; we are not looking for speed or production. We do not cover falling, which lets us focus on the saw, and basic operations, such as bucking and limbing. I am always amazed when the owner's manual for new saws often covers tree falling even before showing how to start the saw!

I will post some other things related to chainsaw training, and looking for input, and shared ideas from others.

Thanks!

Philbert

EDIT: I changed the thread title slightly to encourage folks to post additional training resources.
 
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Philbert

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YouTube - Training Videos
Lot of cr*p on YouTube. Some good stuff too.
I like and am comfortable recommending these video series to anyone.


STIHL Chainsaw Safety, Operation & Maintenance

Pretty good. Applies to most chainsaws:

Husqvarna Videos - Chainsaw Usage & Safety Training

Pretty good. Applies to most chainsaws:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL0VcazyXHqErUd8ib-OKs6sZkfGFQ5shu


BC Faller Training Standard Video Series
More advanced training:
http://www2.worksafebc.com/Publications/Multimedia/Videos.asp?ReportID=36885

Philbert
 

Philbert

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Other YouTube Videos for Training

Lots of 'chainsaw fail' or 'tree cutting fail' type videos out there to show what can go wrong, and could be used for training. I regularly use the following videos to help illustrate the classroom portion:

Chaps - Chainsaw Leg Protection
Classic, clear, and convincing video from the State of Washington, without being too graphic:


Chaps Vs Bunker Pants - Warren VFD
Because firefighters sometimes think that their turnout gear is all that they need:

Chainsaw Boot Test
Steel toes versus composite 'safey toe' boots:

Kickback to the Neck
For those guys who swear 'I am fast enough and strong enough to resist any kickback . . . ':

Using Ladders for Tree Work
Dan Murphy's compilation of why something that might not be obvious can be so dangerous. I only use the first part, showing people why not to use ladders.

Philbert
 

Philbert

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Teaching Aids

I am a visual learner, and like to demonstrate things when teaching. These are a few simple things that I use to help teach people how to use a chainsaw.

Teaching Aids 1.jpg

A door spring demonstrates spring poles and residual tension. PVC pipes are used to describe barber poles and different types of binds/pinches. The plywood 'guide bar' illustrates push-back, pull-in, and kick-back portions of the bar. The high-tech block of wood shows what a kerf is.

I use a short piece of 3/4-inch pitch harvester chain when describing saw chain, because it's larger and easier to see - everything is twice as big as on 3/8 inch chain. I can't afford the really nice, but expensive, chain models.

Teaching Aids 2.jpg

Bind/Pinch Points

Teaching Aids 3.jpg

Barber Chairs! The PVC pipes are hinged together with a short strip of rubber or flexible tubing.

I also like to have a few different kinds of saws available, to show what is generally similar, and what can be different, between chainsaws. Damaged saw chaps, bent bars, and heavily worn or seized saw parts also help to start conversations on what can go wrong, normal wear, maintenance, and abuse.

Cut Away Cylinder.jpg

Cut-away 2-cycle model by Chris-PA from 'another site', made from a clamshell saw. I have not gotten around to making one of these yet, but it is on the list!

Philbert
 
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GCJenks204

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Philbert thanks for posting these. I will have to dedicate some time to watching them all.
 

WOODS

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Good stuff.

I'm a timber man and we tend to get complacent and then get hurt,when you think you know it all and loose your fear is when you get hurt or killed.

Thanks for posting.

Just last Saturday I was out falling a few trees when a friend who owns a tree service dropped by. After he got done fussing at me for working alone and checking that I had a cellphone, he said almost as an afterthought when he was leaving "Be sure you always leave a clear escape path". What he didn't know was I had already noticed that I was getting a little sloppy by only clearing close to the tree. With his words and my thoughts in mind on the very next tree, I made sure I had a long 45 degree path. Then I proceeded to chase the hinge too much trying to speed up a slow motion fall that I had triggered by wedging. As you would expect the hinge (if you can call something now paper thin a hinge) broke. What I didn't expect was for the tree to change course 90 degrees and come right at me. I made some tracks down my little path. Though I can't say I wouldn't have made it anyway, I don't know if I would have. It certainly was way too close for comfort. The tree fell directly against the saw. Why the saw got thrown instead of crushed I will never know.

Ron

IMG_1074.JPG

The white spot to the left is my saw. My axe is actually under the stem. In my shadow is a 7" or 8" snag that was swinging from the main stem; you can see in the next pictures that the butt of the snag fell across my escape path.

IMG_1079.JPG IMG_1084.JPG

Though it is hard to make out in the last picture, from the butt of the snag and passing the right side of the small sprig is over four feet of bare earth from me high tailing it out of there.
 

Philbert

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Just last Saturday I was out falling a few trees when a friend who owns a tree service dropped by. After he got done fussing at me for working alone and checking that I had a cellphone, he said almost as an afterthought when he was leaving "Be sure you always leave a clear escape path".
Glad you are OK.

Having an escape path and not working alone are good training points, whether bucking or felling.

Philbert
 

Philbert

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Cut-away 2-cycle model by Chris PA from 'another site', made from a clamshell saw. I have not gotten around to making one of these yet, but it is on the list!
OK - I motivated myself!

I was going to wait until I found someone with a metal cutting bandsaw. But about 15 minutes with a vise, and a standard hacksaw, got me this:

Half A Homelite Cylinder.jpg

I will smooth out the flat side on some 80 and 120 grit aluminum oxide sheets, and ease the sharp corners with a Dremel. I took it a little past halfway, so that the intake and exhaust ports still show, but the cylinder is 'trapped'. The spark plug hole on this cheap Homelite from the scrap pile is off center, so I can leave the plug in place. Maybe add a handle on the flywheel side to make it easy to turn.

Good way to re-use a 'dead' garage sale clamshell saw.

Philbert
 

David Young

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Excellent thread and job.

Which method do you show or prefer for spring poles.

Multi tap
Or
Fatigue cut


They say 90% of fatalities happen within 10 ft of the stump. Think how 3 steps can make you.
 

Philbert

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Thanks!

Which method do you show or prefer for spring poles.

More recently I have been taught to 'shave' the bottom/compression wood by moving the saw back and forth, sideways, to relieve the tension, if the bend is reachable/accessible. Not sure if that is the 'fatigue cut'? Of course, different circumstances may call for different techniques.

They say 90% of fatalities happen within 10 ft of the stump. Think how 3 steps can make you.

Falling has many, many issues and hazards, so that is probably true. Some of these depend on the species, size, condition, etc., etc. We don't teach falling in our basic chainsaw safety classes, so we deal with some of these hazards by the scope of the work we do. In other words, a damaged tree may need to come down, or a hung up tree may need special experience or equipment. But if our crew does not have that experience, we leave it for the professional tree crews. After a big storm, we can clean up a lot of stuff on the ground, restore access, help the homeowner, and make it easier and faster for the professional crews to get to any technical stuff. More efficient for everybody, and saves the homeowner money.

Even storm damaged trees on the ground can be technical and challenging, so we focus on tension, compression, 'bind', stumps standing back up, not 'wading into' a crown you are cutting up, having one person on a tree in case cutting a limb makes it move/shift, working with unskilled volunteers, etc. Personally, I am always interested in attending training and learning more, so open to ideas about teaching falling.


Philbert
 

Agent Orange

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If you ever make it through Kansas, I'd buy you lunch for a chance to learn. I've gone through tons of OSHA based classes and work with safety in mind. My guys don't always appreciated it, but they go home in one piece every single day.
 

Stihl working Hard

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Just last Saturday I was out falling a few trees when a friend who owns a tree service dropped by. After he got done fussing at me for working alone and checking that I had a cellphone, he said almost as an afterthought when he was leaving "Be sure you always leave a clear escape path". What he didn't know was I had already noticed that I was getting a little sloppy by only clearing close to the tree. With his words and my thoughts in mind on the very next tree, I made sure I had a long 45 degree path. Then I proceeded to chase the hinge too much trying to speed up a slow motion fall that I had triggered by wedging. As you would expect the hinge (if you can call something now paper thin a hinge) broke. What I didn't expect was for the tree to change course 90 degrees and come right at me. I made some tracks down my little path. Though I can't say I wouldn't have made it anyway, I don't know if I would have. It certainly was way too close for comfort. The tree fell directly against the saw. Why the saw got thrown instead of crushed I will never know.

Ron

View attachment 14177

The white spot to the left is my saw. My axe is actually under the stem. In my shadow is a 7" or 8" snag that was swinging from the main stem; you can see in the next pictures that the butt of the snag fell across my escape path.

View attachment 14178 View attachment 14179

Though it is hard to make out in the last picture, from the butt of the snag and passing the right side of the small sprig is over four feet of bare earth from me high tailing it out of there.
Wow glad you are ok that could have gone either way there
 

Stihl working Hard

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OK - I motivated myself!

I was going to wait until I found someone with a metal cutting bandsaw. But about 15 minutes with a vise, and a standard hacksaw, got me this:

View attachment 14181

I will smooth out the flat side on some 80 and 120 grit aluminum oxide sheets, and ease the sharp corners with a Dremel. I took it a little past halfway, so that the intake and exhaust ports still show, but the cylinder is 'trapped'. The spark plug hole on this cheap Homelite from the scrap pile is off center, so I can leave the plug in place. Maybe add a handle on the flywheel side to make it easy to turn.

Good way to re-use a 'dead' garage sale clamshell saw.

Philbert
That looks great really enjoying your thread :cheer:
 

Stihl working Hard

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If you ever make it through Kansas, I'd buy you lunch for a chance to learn. I've gone through tons of OSHA based classes and work with safety in mind. My guys don't always appreciated it, but they go home in one piece every single day.
And that's the most important thing isn't it a lot of people out there put $ before safety
 
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