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exSW

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Graphic example of how a saw carb works. 925 Homelite won't run previous owner then me went through IT from stem to stern. New manifold block,gaskets,rebuilt carb perfect spark no fuel condition. Pour a little down the throat instant on. Finally blocked off the intake and exhaust and did a vacuum test. None,as in zero. Replace crank seals and seal retainer o ring and shazam. Runs perfect. So downstroke pressurizes the carb from crankcase side and provides draw through venturi on cylinder side,correct?
 

mdavlee

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I've had to make air bleed holes on some carbs for them to idle. The L circuit was providing too much fuel to idle and not flood out and die. They did run awesome and it was a case of too big of jets for the size saw I put it on. But it does run awesome once I did that. I hope to play around with a WJ, Bing, and tilly for a 660 here sometime soon.
 

paragonbuilder

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I've had to make air bleed holes on some carbs for them to idle. The L circuit was providing too much fuel to idle and not flood out and die. They did run awesome and it was a case of too big of jets for the size saw I put it on. But it does run awesome once I did that. I hope to play around with a WJ, Bing, and tilly for a 660 here sometime soon.

I'm not clear on what the air bleed holes do. They bleed air into the fuel chamber of the carb?


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mdavlee

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I'm not clear on what the air bleed holes do. They bleed air into the fuel chamber of the carb?


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Bleed air past the butterfly to lean the mixture out at idle.
 

paragonbuilder

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Ok. I'm more confused. Lol
If it needs air to lean it out, why back it out that far?


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jmssaws

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I've had lots of wj carbs not idle slow enough even with the idle screw removed.
 

mdavlee

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Ok. I'm more confused. Lol
If it needs air to lean it out, why back it out that far?


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If I opened the butterfly far enough I couldn't get the chain to stop turning. It was a carb modded for a 7900 I put on a stihl. Sometimes they just need more air like that. It's a ton of trial and error. I've got 10 carbs from Rich right now. Some work and some don't. Just part of it.
 

paragonbuilder

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If I opened the butterfly far enough I couldn't get the chain to stop turning. It was a carb modded for a 7900 I put on a stihl. Sometimes they just need more air like that. It's a ton of trial and error. I've got 10 carbs from Rich right now. Some work and some don't. Just part of it.

Ok. I think I get it. As you open the butterfly, it's also pulling more fuel from the transition circuit. So by drilling a hole in the butterfly for air, it can stay closed and not pull fuel but lean out some.
Is that correct?


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mdavlee

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Ok. I think I get it. As you open the butterfly, it's also pulling more fuel from the transition circuit. So by drilling a hole in the butterfly for air, it can stay closed and not pull fuel but lean out some.
Is that correct?


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Yes. With the butterfly closed all the way it would idle around 1800-2000. If I opened it it went up too much to not engage the clutch. The screws were only 1/4 turn out on one and half on the other.
 

paragonbuilder

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Yes. With the butterfly closed all the way it would idle around 1800-2000. If I opened it it went up too much to not engage the clutch. The screws were only 1/4 turn out on one and half on the other.

Ok that makes sense.
Earlier I think terry mentioned the transition holes acted as air bleeds until the butterfly opened. This is what I don't get. I thought you meant you drilled another hole down to the fuel reservoir....
Do these holes actually bleed air into the carb body?


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mdavlee

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I've not went that far to check those Zama out that much. Rich has them down so I just get him to do it. I am going to mess with the rwj4 and a couple tillotson soon.
 

Poleman

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Pulling the main jet and drilling the first hole toward the saw edge is what's done on the Zamas to introduce more air into the system. If you don't have the nessasary tools to pull the jet you can drill the throttle plate or notch it. I prefer to drill because if you go to big and can't get your idle down it's easy to soldier it shut and go smaller.
 
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Terry Syd

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Rich, I saw in the tech section under carburetors that your now having to work with Zamas that aren't 'twin jet'. Bugger, those were easy to mod, hopefully you will get your head around the newer type carbs.

Here's something I've run into when modding the 460 carb. I like the 460 carb because it has the largest venturi of the HD series (17.45mm) plus an offset main discharge nozzle - I think it will flow the best of that range of carbs.

The 460 carb is an EPA carb. I had originally thought that the small jet in the carb was a restriction on the low speed circuit - it isn't. Turns out it is an 'auxilliary' jet like on the twin jet Zamas. Unfortunately, it sits too close to the throttle plate and can cause problems with the idle, especially when it gets drilled larger (I don't know what the max size should be...)

Then I thought "where in the Hell is the source of fuel for the low speed circuit??" - I found it, I had to punch out the main discharge nozzle. You wouldn't believe it, the low speed circuit takes it fuel from the high speed circuit. There is a passage way drilled into the nozzle tunnel that leads to the low speed circuit.

I plugged the passage in the nozzle tunnel with some GB Weld, put the nozzle back in and then drilled a 1mm hole in the wetside just in front of the low speed needle seat in order to feed fuel to the needle. It completely changed the way the carb worked, it went pig rich immediately.

Not only is the idle more stable, but the max RPM is more stable. I'm going to do some more work with the metering springs, but I think I'm on the home stretch with this carb.

I thought you might like the information about where the low speed circuit picks up it's fuel as you may run into the same configuration in other carbs.
 
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