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mdavlee

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If finish isn't important use what chain you have. If it's chisel I would go a little less angle than it normally has for longer lasting. It shouldn't dull that fast in those logs. I can get 2 cuts and that was 20 bd ft cut before having to sharpen. If it's still self feeding at the end of a cut I'll start another one if it's short. If it's a 6-10' long cut I'll touch up. If you get the logs elevated and let gravity help you with the right chain all you do is hold the throttle.
 

mdavlee

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My 30" mill with a 33" or longer bar can do 27" wide. I wish it was a 36" but it was cheap on craigslist. I do need to get the rail extensions for 48" for using with the 50".
 

Hedgerow

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My 30" mill with a 33" or longer bar can do 27" wide. I wish it was a 36" but it was cheap on craigslist. I do need to get the rail extensions for 48" for using with the 50".
This is John T's set up on a big chunk of Pecan.

JohnT mill1.jpg JohnTmill2.jpg johntmill3.jpg johntmill4.jpg

088 and a 48" I believe.
 

Terry Hennessy

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They're not too bad. They're short (12' I think) so longer rips take some secondary setup, and the height adjustment screws walk all over the place, but they are light and easy to rig up.
Even if you have a double-mount Alaskan, you can remove the tip-mount, and get that extra bar length usable, using it like the Small Log Mill; (may) not be as accurate; Crosscut chain can be used, but you can move each sharpening closer to the 10-15-degree (instead of 25-deg)
 

lumberjackchef

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I have a homade Alaskan type with all the adjusters for easy thickness changes. I will put a pic if it up tomorrow can't find one on my phone. But here is my hybrid wood bug type rail Mill that I build from scrap. I run my ported 066 / 36" on for making quick slabs, beams or dimensional......
cc7ccb2109c24d4df2ec48682dee4aeb.jpg
I always just make my own ripping chain to my own preferred recipe...this Mill is true to 1/16" almost no wander. Makes much straighter cuts than the band Mill we have. I will get some better pics tomorrow.....

Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk
 

czar800

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If finish isn't important use what chain you have. If it's chisel I would go a little less angle than it normally has for longer lasting. It shouldn't dull that fast in those logs. I can get 2 cuts and that was 20 bd ft cut before having to sharpen. If it's still self feeding at the end of a cut I'll start another one if it's short. If it's a 6-10' long cut I'll touch up. If you get the logs elevated and let gravity help you with the right chain all you do is hold the throttle.

You hit the nail right on the head.


I would reiterate to the OP keep your chain sharp it will save your saw,time and your back.
 

czar800

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Ok it's not a chainsaw mill, but it's a mill we had when I was in high school my dad bought it to build our barn. That's a picture of my brother running the mill. The date is wrong and yes that's a picture of the tv. We were watching home movies.

image.jpeg
 

lumberjackchef

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I've tried all types of different chain setups on my alaskan(manufactured ripping chains, stock chisel, semi, skip, homade grinds, 0°,10°, 15° top plate you name it. And the fastest by far was the Malloff method out of the book Chainsaw Lumbermaking. When done correctly it will make almost twice as many cuts in soft and medium harwoods than anything else Ive tested but the only limiting factor was power. You must have displacement to pull this grind because of the low raker height. It will bog even my ported 066 if you are heavy handed, but it self feeds like nothing else Ive tried! the bigger powerhead the better when milling. Makes the small stuff seem like you are on a band mill. $$ limit mine to a 394 Husqvarna at the moment. building a demo/conversion 3120 next!
 

Hedgerow

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The 9010 will mill with whatever I toss on it..
Regular old semi chisel was what I started with.. But square filed is what it wears now..
Rakers are somewhat low.
 

Hedgerow

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Ole John Tallifario is serious about his milling and stump turning..
He been doing it forever, and comes up with some cool stuff.
 

lumberjackchef

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Care to share specs and or pics?
yes sir its pretty simple really. The angles are simply as follows:

Top plate angle set at 0°
Grinder set at 50° from vertical (40° from horizontal)
Raker depth is set at .045"

Standard chain with a top plate angle gets dull much faster than when set at 0°. this is because the greater angle causes side pressure on the cutters and drive links. This makes the corner of each cutter the primary cutting area, once it dulls, your saws abiltiy to cut becomes greatly reduced. This put a tremendous load on the saws and creates more heat and friction on Bar and chain, thus further accelerating the demise of both the Saw and Bar and Chain.
These modified angles resolve that problem and create a much greater surface area to even that pressure and greatly extends the area of cutting edge being engaged in the wood during the cut. Therefore longer lasting sharpness equalling many more passes before sharpening is necessary. The added .005-.010" of depth guage removal allows for faster feed rate as long as you have a powerhead with the discplacement to provide the torque necessary. I will say that you still need to pay particular attention to feed rate and as soon as you notice a great reduction in that rate, go ahead and dress the chain with a few strokes of the file at that point. Dont let it get so dull that you are using excessive pressure to finsh a cut. This will gaurantee a longer life for your equipment. I have milled several thousands of brdft of slabs and lumber using the same Bar and powerhead without any major incident.
 
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