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Chainsaw grinder questions, tips, tricks, and pics!!!!

Fairways_and_Greens

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One of the $80 -$120 'look-alike' or 'clone' grinders copied from the Oregon or Tecomec model grinders. Usually if lower quality, but some guys find them to be 'good enough ', or 'a good value for the money'.

For the record, I recommend the 'real' ones, which can be found for as little as $200, but are higher quality, come with better grinding wheels, etc.

Philbert

What about the Oregon 410-120?
 

Philbert

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What about the Oregon 410-120?
That is Oregon quality, and uses the standard wheels, but has a less powerful motor. Does not have the wheel wear feature of the 520-120. I have not personally used it, and do not know if the smaller format makes any difference.

Screen shot 2018-12-24 at 11.05.45 PM.png

These (below) do not have the light, or the wheel wear feature, and have just a basic vise, but have the full-sized motors:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tecomec-Co...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

If I could afford it, I would buy the Oregon 520-120, and if I was on a budget, I would go with the Tecomec grinder, above, because I am familiar with them. The 410-120 might be a good choice too.

Philbert
 

Philbert

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Can't remember if we have discussed this in this thread yet, but I clean most chains before I sharpen . . . . (pause for gasps, snorts, pearl clutching, eye rolls, etc. . . . . ). Described it at length in 'that other forum'.
Super Clean.jpg
Soak 30 seconds or so in 50:50 mix of this stuff (water based degreaser *with sodium hydroxide -aka 'lye');
hit with old toothbrushes on an old plastic cutting board;
repeat if needed - use stainless steel 'scratch brush' for light rust;
dry 15 minutes in 200°F oven on old cookie sheet (or hit with compressed air);
inspect / repair / sharpen / etc;
spray liberally with WD-40 to remove any remaining water and to provide a thin lube film.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philbert-meets-the-stihl-rs3.202969/

Cleaning lets me inspect the loops for any damage, cracked tie straps, mis-installed repair parts, etc, as well as making sharpening easier. Taken a lot of cr*p for 'cleaning chains' in these forums, but some of the ones I get look like they are caked in asphalt. I like to return them in close-to-new condition.

IMG_5330.jpg

Philbert
 

PA Dan

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Can't remember if we have discussed this in this thread yet, but I clean most chains before I sharpen . . . . (pause for gasps, snorts, pearl clutching, eye rolls, etc. . . . . ). Described it at length in 'that other forum'.
View attachment 164141
Soak 30 seconds or so in 50:50 mix of this stuff (water based degreaser *with sodium hydroxide -aka 'lye');
hit with old toothbrushes on an old plastic cutting board;
repeat if needed - use stainless steel 'scratch brush' for light rust;
dry 15 minutes in 200°F oven on old cookie sheet (or hit with compressed air);
inspect / repair / sharpen / etc;
spray liberally with WD-40 to remove any remaining water and to provide a thin lube film.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philbert-meets-the-stihl-rs3.202969/

Cleaning lets me inspect the loops for any damage, cracked tie straps, mis-installed repair parts, etc, as well as making sharpening easier. Taken a lot of cr*p for 'cleaning chains' in these forums, but some of the ones I get look like they are caked in asphalt. I like to return them in close-to-new condition.

View attachment 164143

Philbert
Very impressive!
 

Hedgerow

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Can't remember if we have discussed this in this thread yet, but I clean most chains before I sharpen . . . . (pause for gasps, snorts, pearl clutching, eye rolls, etc. . . . . ). Described it at length in 'that other forum'.
View attachment 164141
Soak 30 seconds or so in 50:50 mix of this stuff (water based degreaser *with sodium hydroxide -aka 'lye');
hit with old toothbrushes on an old plastic cutting board;
repeat if needed - use stainless steel 'scratch brush' for light rust;
dry 15 minutes in 200°F oven on old cookie sheet (or hit with compressed air);
inspect / repair / sharpen / etc;
spray liberally with WD-40 to remove any remaining water and to provide a thin lube film.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philbert-meets-the-stihl-rs3.202969/

Cleaning lets me inspect the loops for any damage, cracked tie straps, mis-installed repair parts, etc, as well as making sharpening easier. Taken a lot of cr*p for 'cleaning chains' in these forums, but some of the ones I get look like they are caked in asphalt. I like to return them in close-to-new condition.

View attachment 164143

Philbert
I ain’t doin all that *s-word man...

I get like $7 a chain to make em sharp..

If they’re bad enough, I’m not above tossing em in the trash.
 

MotherGoose

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Here’s a quick way I’ll take out gullets if anyone is interested. Not sure if this has been shared or not.
 

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