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Chainsaw grinder questions, tips, tricks, and pics!!!!

RedGas

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I haven't read all 50 pages of this thread but I did do a search and didn't find much, so I'll ask here:

What's the general consensus on the Harbor Freight chainsaw grinder? Is it worth $24 for a non-pro firewood cutter?

I've always hand-filed my own chains (mostly full chisel, round ground) and been happy with the results, but I recently helped a friend cut up some downed trees at his house, and I don't know what we got into (didn't see any nails or anything like that, and no rocks around here) but something took a lot of the "corners" off my Stihl full-comp chains, and it takes a LOT of filing to get those corners back!

I would still mostly hand-file my chains, but for the rare occasions when they get really torn up, it would be nice to have something that worked faster.

Thanks for any replies.

Jeff
 

Philbert

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What's the general consensus on the Harbor Freight chainsaw grinder? Is it worth $24 for a non-pro firewood cutter?

It is a cheap tool that can work within very narrow constraints, but not the ones you describe. You would not be happy with it.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/hf-chain-grinder-thread.268303/

You can get a basic Tecomec grinder for under $200 that would meet your needs. Or you can take your chances with a 'clone' version, or keep your eye out for a used one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tecomec-Co...670400?hash=item58ec206e40:g:nu0AAOSwySFZfiXE

Philbert
 

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I haven't read all 50 pages of this thread but I did do a search and didn't find much, so I'll ask here:

What's the general consensus on the Harbor Freight chainsaw grinder? Is it worth $24 for a non-pro firewood cutter?

I've always hand-filed my own chains (mostly full chisel, round ground) and been happy with the results, but I recently helped a friend cut up some downed trees at his house, and I don't know what we got into (didn't see any nails or anything like that, and no rocks around here) but something took a lot of the "corners" off my Stihl full-comp chains, and it takes a LOT of filing to get those corners back!

I would still mostly hand-file my chains, but for the rare occasions when they get really torn up, it would be nice to have something that worked faster.

Thanks for any replies.

Jeff
http://opeforum.com/threads/efco-chain-grinder.14397/
 

Skeans1

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That old girl looks ran hard and put away wet. Look at some of the other stuff they have up they like high or new prices for used equipment so I’d bet that goes for more then what they did new.


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Homemade

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Not the specific “Lazer” branded one. But I have a green timber tuff fleet farm nock off. The wheels are really soft. There is a good deal of run out on the machine. And the clamping vice sucks. The ramp angle of the over center cam that locks the chain is way to steep.

To over come this I got a new “retrofit” vice from an Oregon grinder that had the screw style vice.
https://www.ebay.com/p/Oregon-52626...6%26rvr_ts%3De40921221660ac802fd51085fff6e776

And I also invested in a CBN wheel. Now it’s much better.
 

huskihl

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Philbert

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Anyone know anything about these $90 rigs?
One of many Oregon clones out there. Some guys are satisfied with them, others are not. Quality appears to vary between models, vendors, and sometimes individual units. A lot of discussion on how to 'shim/fix/mod/etc.' these units in threads like these ('Northern Tool' was one of the first to offer these clones):

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/fyi-northern-chainsaw-sharpener.39995/

Keep in mind that with cheap grinders you also get cheap wheels. If you understand that the cutting chain is the most important part of the chainsaw, you will appreciate that the grinding wheel is the most important part of the grinder. I have seen day-and-night differences when swapping wheels. So add in 3 new wheels ($15 - $26 each) and compare that to just buying the basic Tecomec grinder, complete with the better wheels, and the 300W motor from the get-go:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tecomec-Co...h=item58ec206e40:g:nu0AAOSwySFZfiXE:rk:4:pf:0

Philbert
 

blades

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For your use it will work just fine. I grind a ton of chains on similar units - I wear out vises, break springs but my use is not avg.persons . There always a discrepancy between the two rows of cutters if you just swing the vise around for the other side, I use a set of inexpensive calipers and adjust removal amount for same .
 

Chainsaw Addict

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I used one for quite a while. Ground a lot of chains. Always ran smooth and true. I did get CBN wheels. I shouldn't have spent the money for the 1/8" CBN. Don't sharpen many .325 pitch. The Lazer has been downgraded to a dedicated raker grinder with wheel ground to a raker shape. I now use a Maxx grinder dedicated to 3/8 and .404

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Chainsaw Addict

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For your use it will work just fine. I grind a ton of chains on similar units - I wear out vises, break springs but my use is not avg.persons . There always a discrepancy between the two rows of cutters if you just swing the vise around for the other side, I use a set of inexpensive calipers and adjust removal amount for same .
I did same. Cheap HF digital caliper.

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Teemore

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An auction for a variety of dealership chainsaw related equipment has been referenced elsewhere on this site. I had a look through the listed Lots and noticed there is a "Combination Oregon 511A & double Silvey chain saw sharpening stand". Thought it might be of interest to those who peruse this thread. The Higby Co. dispersal sale - http://www.backes-auction.com/auction-details?id=400
 

Frank bierce

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Any idea what model Silvey round grinder this is?...600?
 
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Philbert

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What is is a "knockoff" Oregon grinder?
One of the $80 -$120 'look-alike' or 'clone' grinders copied from the Oregon or Tecomec model grinders. Usually if lower quality, but some guys find them to be 'good enough ', or 'a good value for the money'.

For the record, I recommend the 'real' ones, which can be found for as little as $200, but are higher quality, come with better grinding wheels, etc.

Philbert
 
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