High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Chainsaw grinder questions, tips, tricks, and pics!!!!

Khntr85

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Yes you guys are excactly right....experimenting I have found out that to much hook is hard on, the chain and the saw....it can be to way to grabby as you guys have said....

If you look closely at Oregon or Stihl chain that is brand new, it has an aggressive top plate face....however,they have the side plate to support it.... basically if you have to much beak, it won't be a good work chain LOL...
 

Moparmyway

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Yes you guys are excactly right....experimenting I have found out that to much hook is hard on, the chain and the saw....it can be to way to grabby as you guys have said....

If you look closely at Oregon or Stihl chain that is brand new, it has an aggressive top plate face....however,they have the side plate to support it.... basically if you have to much beak, it won't be a good work chain LOL...
Youre learning things that probably wouldnt be able to register without you trying these different things !

This is why I believe that you have to try things on your own, so you can change things on your own, so you can see what works best for you !!
 

Khntr85

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Youre learning things that probably wouldnt be able to register without you trying these different things !

This is why I believe that you have to try things on your own, so you can change things on your own, so you can see what works best for you !!
Could not agree more, Thanks man....ya I have learned that just becaus a chain "looks" good, doesn't mean anything!!

I try to look at the work chain as a pocket knife or wood chisel, as philbert said one time....I mean yes I can use my grandpas old leather strop and put a paper thin edge on my buck knife I carry.....but if I was to do this, the first time I cut anything the edge would be ruined/dulled....a guy has to have some "support" for the working edge so to speak!!!

It really is hard to believe how much more I have learned from a lot of you guys on this thread in the last few months...I mean I used to hand file and get just fine results, but it's crazy what I have learned....

I have said it before and will agian, thanks to all of you guys for helping me!!!!
 

Khntr85

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Here is a pic of RM 3/8 safety chain I "touched up" with the USG, I used the stone wheel also.....this chain has a few cuts on it....I made a few test cuts in oak and walnut, it cuts and self-feeds great!!!

RM 3/8 safety chain....
IMG_2738.JPG
IMG_2736.JPG
IMG_2735.JPG
 
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penzone

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Some folks just don't know what's going on. Here's a pic of before and after on a chain I was asked to sharpen.

195ed6d1c54ebf56c9bc02da99fffab6.jpg


1c4803c57ecbf2b1ceef8c750f7c3a2f.jpg


The guy admitted he tried to sharpen it and wasn't very happy with the way it cut. There are multiple things I see wrong. It looks like he used the wrong size wheel for the chain, he cut way too deep, the rakers are too short and he may have used a flat file to taper the top plate down...not sure why. Anyway, it should cut much better now.

As a side note, does anyone charge more for the first time they sharpen a chain, and give a repeat customer price reduction? I find it takes much more time to get the chain to my angles and cleaned up. I can imagine it would be much quicker if I were to get them back the next time.
 

Sierrawoodsman

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I've seen quite a few DIY'ers try to compensate for a badly dulled chain by taking the rakes way down. Seems to be a common mistake. Sometimes they have just taken out too far. This was a 36 inch chain that probably cost The guy 40 to 50 bucks. Totally ruined. He took off the rakes completely willy-nilly. Had to tell him that even though the chain is now sharp it would still be dangerous to use. In retrospect I should not have even sharpened it for him and told him he would have to buy new one.
9690726b9bf34aa4a97331fbeb45468f.jpg



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srcarr52

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To make things worse, it looks like he only did one side.
 

Sierrawoodsman

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It looks that way in this pic, but it was hit and miss on both sides of the chain all over.
#Can't fix stupid.....can't even sharpen it! [emoji23]


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Khntr85

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@Khntr85 keeps asking for photos. Here is a damaged full chisel chain, where I had to take the cutters back pretty far to get back to clean metal on the top and side plates:
View attachment 77758
'Before'

View attachment 77760

'After'

Single pass with a resinoid wheel.

Philbert
Wow, very nice!!!


It kills me to take all the material off these damaged chains, but we have no choice LOL!!!!
 

Philbert

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It kills me to take all the material off these damaged chains, but we have no choice /QUOTE]
Either that, or welding it back on!

This is one company that makes replaceable chain inserts for harvester chain - the idea is quite old, and there are some patents going back a lot of years:
http://chain-serts.com/

Philbert
 

Khntr85

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Well Guys i don't know what to think of this US diamond brand wheel...it leaves the best finish on a chain I have ever seen....it doesn't seem to cut as fast as my other CBN wheels, but the finish is far superior...

I took some pictures of a brand new out of the box never used Stihl 3/8 RM chain, and some pics of a Oregon chain I sharpened using the US diamond brand wheel....you guys tell me what you think....I know I am going way out on a limb here, but the finish looks damn near identical to the brand new chain... what say you!?!?!?
IMG_2831.JPG IMG_2840.JPG IMG_2847.JPG IMG_2844.JPG IMG_2837.JPG
 
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T.Roller

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Khntr85

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You have me wanting one now.
Do you make any commission?
This wheel is 10 or more years old, I got it with the usg I bought recently...

I have done some research and found out that US diamond, has now became Radiac abrasives....I emailed the "new" company and a guy sent me his number and told me to call with any questions, haven't called yet....

The wheel makes a great finish, but doesn't seem to take material off as well as a stone wheel or my other CBN wheels, it's strange....

I used the "white" stick to clean it and it seemed to get a little better....

I will do some more experimenting with it...
 
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