High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Chain won‘t cut without pressure

~WBF

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ferris

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No i had use the same 5,2mm file for the complete chain.
And i use the nearly new bar that is on the pictures
 

ferris

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Hey guys, I filed my chain yesterday and I use one of the guides @hseII meantioned earlyer. The chain self feeds very well now :)
It is definitely easier to keep the file in the right position with one of these guides. And im faster with them. Idk why I don’t use them in the last years.
Thx guys :)
 

hseII

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Hey guys, I filed my chain yesterday and I use one of the guides @hseII meantioned earlyer. The chain self feeds very well now :)
It is definitely easier to keep the file in the right position with one of these guides. And im faster with them. Idk why I don’t use them in the last years.
Thx guys :)

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Hedgerow

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Hey guys, I filed my chain yesterday and I use one of the guides @hseII meantioned earlyer. The chain self feeds very well now :)
It is definitely easier to keep the file in the right position with one of these guides. And im faster with them. Idk why I don’t use them in the last years.
Thx guys :)
The main things the guides do for you is keep the file from getting too "deep". remember, 15-20% of the file should be "above" the top plate of the cutter. To get the proper hook and proper file engagement with that top plate and working corner. Once you've gone too deep freehand, it's very difficult to get back on track.

Good Lord.. I'm starting to sound like SawTroll..
 

fossil

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The main things the guides do for you is keep the file from getting too "deep". remember, 15-20% of the file should be "above" the top plate of the cutter. To get the proper hook and proper file engagement with that top plate and working corner. Once you've gone too deep freehand, it's very difficult to get back on track.

Good Lord.. I'm starting to sound like SawTroll..

Good thread!

If you were to really sound like Saw Troll, you would have added something like,

"But, it's really not important as the chain is on a Stihl."
 

PogoInTheWoods

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With the gullet removed all the way down to the tie strap as pictured, there's nothing left to support the file high enough to get an edge or shape the corner. 'Lifting' the file is pretty imprecise even with experienced freehand filers..., who probably wouldn't clear out the gullet to such an extreme depth resulting in so much hook in the first place. That's the op's primary problem. Probably been watchin' too much Buckin' Billy Ray and gettin' too much gullet. LOL Now as the cutters get shorter in length and also shorter in height, a free hand 7/32 or 13/64 file can then use the tie strap as reference to support it relative to the 80/20 ratio for its 20% or so contact above the tooth to again obtain a decent sharpening. But continuing to use a guide with a 7/32 or 13/64 file as the tooth gets shorter will end up resulting in back slope as more and more of the file diameter rises above the cutter. That's where using a smaller file can actually come into play for maintaining both acceptable shape and a nice edge on a dinky ass tooth.

Like others have mentioned, the Granberg is a great file guide for regaining shape and angles, and just as importantly, as a learning aid for gaining a better understanding of how it all ties together to help achieve the desired results when free hand filing. Grinders are great, but don't necessarily teach you much. Understanding a Granberg will certainly help make a lot more sense out of a grinder when you're faced with using one for the first time.
 
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