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Chain won‘t cut without pressure

ferris

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Hey guys,
i have a problem with my chain.
The chain wont cut without pressure, no self feeding.
When i push the chain cuts and make good chips.
I already lower the rakers, but that don’t change anything.
I checked them with a gauge and they are lower then that.
I remove some material on the rakers allready, as u can see.

Stihl RS chain 3/8
5,2mm round file.
Nearly new 16“ Stihl bar

What can i do?

1B4BF655-537F-4F0E-A4E9-25A7E85F480A.jpeg F621630A-8538-4BDA-AAD8-04D129940708.jpeg 8F1CD60F-A09D-41D1-9AA4-A700B1DAAA7D.jpeg 67D8DF48-6794-4BF1-9E03-BB5FEC8B9696.jpeg CBD5B3D8-946B-49FF-A035-1D0D8543DE87.jpeg
 

dall

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A lot of hook on top like cat said use smaller file stihl says 13/64 for 3/8 and Oregon 7/32
 

hseII

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Hey guys,
i have a problem with my chain.
The chain wont cut without pressure, no self feeding.
When i push the chain cuts and make good chips.
I already lower the rakers, but that don’t change anything.
I checked them with a gauge and they are lower then that.
I remove some material on the rakers allready, as u can see.

Stihl RS chain 3/8
5,2mm round file.
Nearly new 16“ Stihl bar

What can i do?

View attachment 170642 View attachment 170643 View attachment 170644 View attachment 170645 View attachment 170646

What is your filing method?
File size?

Take a picture, we are visually paired.

I’ve found these file guides to be more than helpful when things, ( mostly me), run amiss.

https://m.stihlusa.com/products/accessories/chain-saws/completefilekits/




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

ChipsFlyin

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What they said ^^^^ Plus it looks like you may have just grazed something ( stone, dirt, nail, dirty wood, maybe pressing real hard on frozen wood...) and messed up the top of the cutter. When that happens the cutter is pushed down and rubs on the wood instead of entering at an angle. Unless the cutters are filed back past that point self feeding is not likely to happen. I circled what I'm talking about. If you look at your other pics that show the top of the cutters they are all the same.

67D8DF48-6794-4BF1-9E03-BB5FEC8B9696.jpeg
 
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OldJack

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Husky roller guide is a pretty handy quick check tool.

Nice for touching up on a tailgate too.

I've had better luck with the Hedgerow approved Husqvarna roller guide.

roller-guide-jpg.149451
 

huskyboy

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Lift up on the file a touch... you know you have it right when filings start to come up over top plate... you know the rakers are right when you can bore cut smoothly, yet self feed with ease. Set them with a gauge to start, then tune to the particular saw. I usually don’t have to punch out the gullet until the chain starts to get half worn if I hold the file just right (cutters get smaller the more a chain is filed).
 
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Altamaha

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When you lightly draw your finger across a sharpened cutter, you should bleed! They should be razor sharp when you are completed with the sharpening.

Below guides will be a real help. They will keep the top of the file above the top of the cutter, where it should be. The Grandberg on the top is the best, you can adjust the angles and lock them. The middle one is OK. The bottom one is sort of so-so.

Use a 7/32" diameter file on both 3/8 pitch chain and .404 pitch chain.
enhance



enhance


enhance



I have sharpened many a chain with the Grandberg. Now have a Super Jolly grinder, read the Super Jolly thread.
 

Altamaha

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Neighbor across the road has about 80 acres. Lots of Pacific Big Leaf maple. He dropped a few trees in the past months and occasionally tries to saw up the logs into firewood.

I groan when I hear his saw, his chains are so dull that the saw bogs down and dies. Tempted to invite him over for a chain sharpening session.
 
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