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Chain sharpeners help

CoreyB

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Ok I need help. Well but only want advice on a chain sharpeners .
I have been using a granburg file and jig type. I get good results but it kills my bad shoulder and takes forevvvvvvvvver!
Would like to find something that will give simular results.
Would also like something I can do rakers as well.
I sharpen 3/8 lp .325 and 3/8 so it has to easily handle all without a ton of trouble. Any advice would be great.
 

isaaccarlson

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Get a grinder. I don't know why I went so long without one. You can touch up a chain or hog off rocked cutters.
I have a tall timber and it works great. You have to set them up right in the first place, but once done, you can sharpen chains in a few minutes.
I used to sit with a file for a half hour to get a chain just perfect. They cut great, but it took forever and was hard on the arms.
The grinder is almost as good and is faster, so it comes out ahead.
 

KenJax Tree

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I have an Oregon 410 grinder I bought a few months ago and sharpened a few chains on it. Its been under my bench since. I like my hand filed chain much better so the grinder is collecting dust.
 
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Genius

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I started out with a Northern Tool Oregon knockoff several years back and it was decent. I ended up selling that and got a Silvey 510. That was a sweet grinder, I ended up selling that a few years back and ever since then I regretted that.

Since then I bought a Oregon 511 I believe it is. It isn't near as good as a Silvey, but it is nicer and better built than the Northern Tool knockoff grinder I had.
 

Warped5

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I have the Oregon 511AX that works just great. Also have a dirt cheap grinder from HF that's used for just rakers.
 

KenJax Tree

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Its a good grinder. Some of those grinders are the exact same except just have a different name on them.

I tried using a grinder but its not for me. I can hand file faster with better results. YMMV.
 

Black Dog Chainsaw

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I have the Oregon 511AX that works just great. Also have a dirt cheap grinder from HF that's used for just rakers.
and a siminington... ;)


I have been known to use a grinder or two, and maybe I will finally sit down and write the thread in the next week. I know I been saying that for a couple months now but.... well... i'll get to it eventually.

How much chain do you expect to be doing and how much is your time worth to you?? These are the main questions that will determine which grinder works best for you. I have been on a quest to find the best grinder for the price for the time you want to put in. Each model has pros and cons.

511ax Oregon - grinding job is about the best but the tables wear out if you are doing a lot of chain, I do tons! Also the clamping handle will be in your way to see the left to right degree markings if you don't have your grinder right at eye level. This just eats more of your time when you swing from right to left cutters. The Hydro version or the 511a/520 don't have this problem.

551462 Oregon - hydraulic loc is VERY nice for doing lots of chain and cuts sharpening time in 1/2. Can't comment on table wear yet. Read directions 10* shift in table from left to right is REQUIRED to keep chain symmetrical. Angles accurate

511a Oregon- used they are cheap and effective. Tables are bullet proof for long life but you will have to learn how and where to advance and retard your chain to get symmetrical cutters. Also 3/8 LP/picco tends to fall into the ends of the table b/c these usually have spacers for .080 gauge harvester chain. You can just shave the spacers down to 0.065 to allow for 0.063 and smaller. Also the table clamps at one pinch point with a cam lock so you need to be aware of how each cutter gets clamped or you could end up with some funky cutters. Just be consistent in how you clamp each individual cutter. Angles accurate.

410/510/511a NT/HF knock off model Oregon - I've found both to have a louder and less powerful motor but they still work pretty good. Angles are not as accurate as Oregon's and should be double checked and remarked. Swing of table is not smooth side to side like name brand models. Also has same symmetrical, table pinch point cam, and table end problems as 511a.

520 Oregon - similar design to the 511a table but it has a triangular cam lock system that seems to have solved the awkward and most times inconsistent clamping of the 511a. The table ends are still to wide for 3/8LP and the table spacers should be shaved down to size. Angles are accurate and it does a pretty darn good job. Overpriced for what it is (511a redesign - not 511ax redesign like they claim)

ALL Oregons - can use a wider chain stop so that you don't have to move it in and out every time you switch sides of the table. It would hurt nothing to make them 1/4" wider. I usually take my chain stops over and weld an extra bead on the side and grind it down to make it wider. It's annoying having to back the chain stop in and out.

Stihl USG - This grinder is for all the SouthPaw people out there (ie: you advance your chain in the opposite direction as Oregon's). The handle is a bit to long honestly and shortening it would improve the time it takes on every down stroke to sharpen a cutter. I don't like the chain stop at all... You have to push it in or pull it out every time you change from right to left cutters; at least the Oregon's give you a chance at setting the chain catch in the middle to catch both sides (maybe). Angles are accurate on the table but the head angles are not marked the same as Oregon's so you have to get a chart of grind angles to follow or experiment to find the right ones (grind angles for Oregon or Carlton not available in the user manual and seems like the Stihl chain angles aren't in the manual either (cheeky bums!). That said after getting used to it... It is my go to grinder for 3/8 and 404 b/c their wheels remove material fast and easy. Seriously, 1/8"-1/16" off a 404 cutter in one stroke with no burn out. Lets be honest these things are expensive b/c they have the Stihl brand on it, $850-$950 new as I recall. For that price they should have a hydraulic lock on them to speed up chain sharpening. If these were in the $500 range I might have 2-3 of them all set up at the same time so i'm ready for any chain.

Silvey's - There is to much info for me to continue on these and chances are you won't be able to locate a 300/510/600 so why bother to mention them...?? I mention them b/c they have the best chain vices/stops out there. The stops are dual sided and have a positive locking design that pushes the cutter down and back locking it into place consistently every time without fail. Their tables also have a slot in the top rail that allow you to finger tighten a small bolt so you can perfectly set the table for .043, .050, .058, .063. Silvey had their design perfect for holding teeth.

Grinding wheels: Oh jeeze where to start.... Get a CBN if you have $$$ and are to lazy to dress a wheel. I know lots of guys like the Molemab wheels but I find the grit to be too fine which makes the wheel load up quicker. This makes frequent dressing a problem or you keep going and overheat your cutters and grinding takes longer no matter which way you look at it. They do make a better finish no doubt, but i don't think the next tree you cut is going to care what the inside grind of your chain looks like. Oregon's and Oregon knockoffs are 2nd best I've found for grit and grinding speed. The one I like the best is the Stihl USG wheels. they are way more aggressive than CBN's, Oregons, and Molemab. They cut quicker and cooler and get the job done faster.

Small Itty Bitty grinders - This is for all the HF/Irontron/dremel look alike/oregon 310/etc grinders. These are small, under powered, bad grind angles, poor clamping mechs, and no way to do rakers... CHEAP, yes they are cheap, and you definitely get what you pay for. I know some will try to argue that they get great results with their Dremel or tiny little grinder but they were designed for quick field dressing not good symmetrical sharpenings. Why fight the cheap little grinder to get a good sharpening when a good file will take just as long? My advice is to STEER CLEAR! Either pay a shop to do it right, file it correctly, or put your money where you mouth is and get a good grinder you can count on to do a good job. Watch ebay and CL for a good pro grinder. I would definitly buy a 511a off CL for $100-$125 before a 511A knockoff or smaller grinder.

In a perfect world I would like to have 3-4 Stihl USG's with Silvey tables/chain vises on them but I will settle for a stock USG as my primary for now. So what is the runner up for the Average Joe? My 2nd selection would be a hydro 551462. If you can't swing that and you aren't doing a ton of chain (like me), I would go to a 511ax and then to the 410/510/511a. I skipped over the 520 because Oregon should be asking more like $250 for them. They are better than the 410/510/511 but not $170 more. (Pricing from NT).


Peace out!
Nate


PS: If you don't like what I wrote... GO AWAY! I don't want to hear negative comments and replies from people who don't know what they are talking about. If you sharpen at least 30 chains a week (like me), I will allow you to reply with constructive comments. If you don't sharpen that much I will answer intelligent questions.

@Definitive Dave @Time's Standing Stihl @Homelite410 @Philbert @srcarr52
 
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Hedgerow

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and a siminington... ;)


I have been known to use a grinder or two, and maybe I will finally sit down and write the thread in the next week. I know I been saying that for a couple months now but.... well... i'll get to it eventually.

How much chain do you expect to be doing and how much is your time worth to you?? These are the main questions that will determine which grinder works best for you. I have been on a quest to find the best grinder for the price for the time you want to put in. Each model has pros and cons.

511ax Oregon - grinding job is about the best but the tables wear out if you are doing a lot of chain, I do tons! Also the clamping handle will be in your way to see the left to right degree markings if you don't have your grinder right at eye level. This just eats more of your time when you swing from right to left cutters. The Hydro version or the 511a/520 don't have this problem.

551462 Oregon - hydraulic loc is VERY nice for doing lots of chain and cuts sharpening time in 1/2. Can't comment on table wear yet. Read directions 10* shift in table from left to right is REQUIRED to keep chain symmetrical. Angles accurate

511a Oregon- used they are cheap and effective. Tables are bullet proof for long life but you will have to learn how and where to advance and retard your chain to get symmetrical cutters. Also 3/8 LP/picco tends to fall into the ends of the table b/c these usually have spacers for .080 gauge harvester chain. You can just shave the spacers down to 0.065 to allow for 0.063 and smaller. Also the table clamps at one pinch point with a cam lock so you need to be aware of how each cutter gets clamped or you could end up with some funky cutters. Just be consistent in how you clamp each individual cutter. Angles accurate.

410/510/511a NT/HF knock off model Oregon - I've found both to have a louder and less powerful motor but they still work pretty good. Angles are not as accurate as Oregon's and should be double checked and remarked. Swing of table is not smooth side to side like name brand models. Also has same symmetrical, table pinch point cam, and table end problems as 511a.

520 Oregon - similar design to the 511a table but it has a triangular cam lock system that seems to have solved the awkward and most times inconsistent clamping of the 511a. The table ends are still to wide for 3/8LP and the table spacers should be shaved down to size. Angles are accurate and it does a pretty darn good job. Overpriced for what it is (511a redesign - not 511ax redesign like they claim)

ALL Oregons - can use a wider chain stop so that you don't have to move it in and out every time you switch sides of the table. It would hurt nothing to make them 1/4" wider. I usually take my chain stops over and weld an extra bead on the side and grind it down to make it wider. It's annoying having to back the chain stop in and out.

Stihl USG - This grinder is for all the SouthPaw people out there (ie: you advance your chain in the opposite direction as Oregon's). The handle is a bit to long honestly and shortening it would improve the time it takes on every down stroke to sharpen a cutter. I don't like the chain stop at all... You have to push it in or pull it out every time you change from right to left cutters; at least the Oregon's give you a chance at setting the chain catch in the middle to catch both sides (maybe). Angles are accurate on the table but the head angles are not marked the same as Oregon's so you have to get a chart of grind angles to follow or experiment to find the right ones (grind angles for Oregon or Carlton not available in the user manual and seems like the Stihl chain angles aren't in the manual either (cheeky bums!). That said after getting used to it... It is my go to grinder for 3/8 and 404 b/c their wheels remove material fast and easy. Seriously, 1/8"-1/16" off a 404 cutter in one stroke with no burn out. Lets be honest these things are expensive b/c they have the Stihl brand on it, $850-$950 new as I recall. For that price they should have a hydraulic lock on them to speed up chain sharpening. If these were in the $500 range I might have 2-3 of them all set up at the same time so i'm ready for any chain.

Silvey's - There is to much info for me to continue on these and chances are you won't be able to locate a 300/510/600 so why bother to mention them...?? I mention them b/c they have the best chain vices/stops out there. The stops are dual sided and have a positive locking design that pushes the cutter down and back locking it into place consistently every time without fail. Their tables also have a slot in the top rail that allow you to finger tighten a small bolt so you can perfectly set the table for .043, .050, .058, .063. Silvey had their design perfect for holding teeth.

Grinding wheels: Oh jeeze where to start.... Get a CBN if you have $$$ and are to lazy to dress a wheel. I know lots of guys like the Molemab wheels but I find the grit to be too fine which makes the wheel load up quicker. This makes frequent dressing a problem or you keep going and overheat your cutters and grinding takes longer no matter which way you look at it. They do make a better finish no doubt, but i don't think the next tree you cut is going to care what the inside grind of your chain looks like. Oregon's and Oregon knockoffs are 2nd best I've found for grit and grinding speed. The one I like the best is the Stihl USG wheels. they are way more aggressive than CBN's, Oregons, and Molemab. They cut quicker and cooler and get the job done faster.

Small Itty Bitty grinders - This is for all the HF/Irontron/dremel look alike/oregon 310/etc grinders. These are small, under powered, bad grind angles, poor clamping mechs, and no way to do rakers... CHEAP, yes they are cheap, and you definitely get what you pay for. I know some will try to argue that they get great results with their Dremel or tiny little grinder but they were designed for quick field dressing not good symmetrical sharpenings. Why fight the cheap little grinder to get a good sharpening when a good file will take just as long? My advice is to STEER CLEAR! Either pay a shop to do it right, file it correctly, or put your money where you mouth is and get a good grinder you can count on to do a good job. Watch ebay and CL for a good pro grinder. I would definitly buy a 511a off CL for $100-$125 before a 511A knockoff or smaller grinder.

In a perfect world I would like to have 3-4 Stihl USG's with Silvey tables/chain vises on them but I will settle for a stock USG as my primary for now. So what is the runner up for the Average Joe? My 2nd selection would be a hydro 551462. If you can't swing that and you aren't doing a ton of chain (like me), I would go to a 511ax and then to the 410/510/511a. I skipped over the 520 because Oregon should be asking more like $250 for them. They are better than the 410/510/511 but not $170 more. (Pricing from NT).


Peace out!
Nate


PS: If you don't like what I wrote... GO AWAY! I don't want to hear negative comments and replies from people who don't know what they are talking about. If you sharpen at least 30 chains a week (like me), I will allow you to reply with constructive comments. If you don't sharpen that much I will answer intelligent questions.

@Definitive Dave @Time's Standing Stihl @Homelite410 @Philbert @srcarr52
TLDR..


LOL...
 
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