Carb rebuild questions

[malk315]

Hey Guys-

I ordered a carb kit for the HDA-87 carb on my 262. I've been wanting to rebuild that carb for some time now and was checking out some howto videos and such and it looks like it's not too bad of a process. The ereplacementparts video actually makes it look pretty easy.

One question I had -- once the diaphragm side including needle and spring and such and check valve sides are all removed I was planning on also removing the screen and then thoroughly blowing out the carb body w/ cleaner and then reassembling with kit parts that replace old parts. I'm hoping the kit comes with a new spring so the needle will function strong with new diaphragm and such.

I noticed in the ereplacementparts vid they did not remove the H and L needles -- if you screw those all the way out can they be removed so if there's any debris or varnish down in there it can be squirted out with carb clean? Anything else I should be aware of? I'm assuming if you turn the needles out they will come out so they can be inspected and cleaned?

Thanks for any tips!

 

[Mkinslow]

Sounds like you pretty much know what to do. You can take out the H&L needles and spray them out(I do) but I usually turn them in until lightly seated while counting turns so they can be put back as close as possible to where you had them set (if you don’t have it written down somewhere already). I blow mine out with carb cleaner not brake cleaner. Read somewhere that brake cleaner has something different in it and causes problems IIRC. I don’t use compressed air either. Also clean the outside good before you disassemble so all the junk on outside isn’t on your hands when you’re replacing parts on the inside. Take your time and put everything back in the same way it came out and you should be fine

 

[malk315]

Sounds like you pretty much know what to do. You can take out the H&L needles and spray them out(I do) but I usually turn them in until lightly seated while counting turns so they can be put back as close as possible to where you had them set (if you don’t have it written down somewhere already). I blow mine out with carb cleaner not brake cleaner. Read somewhere that brake cleaner has something different in it and causes problems IIRC. I don’t use compressed air either. Also clean the outside good before you disassemble so all the junk on outside isn’t on your hands when you’re replacing parts on the inside. Take your time and put everything back in the same way it came out and you should be fine

Thanks for tips! I'm excited to take a shot at this. I was planning on recording the needles from seated. The L is dialed in so nice the saw has that instant Accel I want to keep! I'm original owner of the saw from 1991 the carb has had no work. Time for new kit parts.

Cheers.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[RI Chevy]

Not to hijack the thread, but how does one tune for that real nice zippy throttle response Eric is referring to?

 

[Mkinslow]

Not to hijack the thread, but how does one tune for that real nice zippy throttle response Eric is referring to?

I don’t know really but always figured when I could make happen it was just all due to everything with carb and saw being perfect. That probably sounds like a smartace answer lol but that’s what I’ve always thought. It’s most likely has to do with dang close metering lever setting and of absolutely no air leaks and good fuel and of course best possible final settings on H&L adjustments

 

[Stihlsmoking]

Not to hijack the thread, but how does one tune for that real nice zippy throttle response Eric is referring to?

I'm no expert "by far" but if you start with l turned out to spec 1 or 3/4 ?? Then turn it out some go wot if it falls on face turn it in some. From idle go wot till you find the sweet spot ? Some will be in or out farther then others. Just play with it till it's at the optimum quick rev. At least that's how I do it ?

 

[Canadian farm boy]

Not to hijack the thread, but how does one tune for that real nice zippy throttle response Eric is referring to?

It's somewhere between to lean and to fat. Lol
Just gotta find the sweet spot. Lots of tweaking between the idle screw, L screw and even the H screw.

 

[Stihlsmoking]

I'm guessing if you can't find a sweet spot your metering lever could be to high/low ? Or some test pop off pressure. I haven't learned that yet ?

 

[71dart]

Hey Guys-

I ordered a carb kit for the HDA-87 carb on my 262. I've been wanting to rebuild that carb for some time now and was checking out some howto videos and such and it looks like it's not too bad of a process. The ereplacementparts video actually makes it look pretty easy.

One question I had -- once the diaphragm side including needle and spring and such and check valve sides are all removed I was planning on also removing the screen and then thoroughly blowing out the carb body w/ cleaner and then reassembling with kit parts that replace old parts. I'm hoping the kit comes with a new spring so the needle will function strong with new diaphragm and such.

I noticed in the ereplacementparts vid they did not remove the H and L needles -- if you screw those all the way out can they be removed so if there's any debris or varnish down in there it can be squirted out with carb clean? Anything else I should be aware of? I'm assuming if you turn the needles out they will come out so they can be inspected and cleaned?

Thanks for any tips!

The kits usually don't come with the spring under the metering lever so don't toss yours out.

 

[malk315]

Not to hijack the thread, but how does one tune for that real nice zippy throttle response Eric is referring to?

Only saws I have that are like this are the 262 with the HDA-87 carb and the 385 with the Tilly carb.
For comparison my 372 and 350 just don't have that high accel from idle to WOT.

The 10mm 044 I was playing with is pretty zippy in response.

Honestly the one that seems to zip the most when you touch the throttle is the 385 w/ the tilly. It is about as instant as it gets... maybe it's just the tilly carbs are where it's at?

Jeff you just need to find some of them hooskies to play with...

 

[RI Chevy]

Lol. Thanks guys. I will try and tweak my L adjustment.
I always thought it was timing advance that provided the zippy throttle.

 

[RI Chevy]

If I get hooskies to play with I'll have to get all those new tools and stuff. LOL

 

[mdavlee]

Not to hijack the thread, but how does one tune for that real nice zippy throttle response Eric is referring to?

Buy huskies with Tillotson[emoji23]

 

[Stihlsmoking]

If I get hooskies to play with I'll have to get all those new tools and stuff. LOL

You mean loc-tite?? Lol

 

[RI Chevy]

Buy huskies with Tillotson[emoji23]

Then I would need a good saw mechanic. AND locktite stock.

 

[mdavlee]

Then I would need a good saw mechanic. AND locktite stock.

Nah. Huskies are easier to tear apart. Can do a lot of them in modules sort of. Intake to muffler can come off in one set.

 

[RI Chevy]

I gotta pull the jug just to replace a plastic tie wrap clamp on the intake. WTF???
Would never happen wirh a Stihl.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Also, keep in mind that the L also feeds the cylinder at WOT.

Don’t toss the old spring. Chances are, you won’t get a new one with the kit.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

I gotta pull the jug just to replace a plastic tie wrap clamp on the intake. WTF???
Would never happen wirh a Stihl.

Yep!

 

[Stump Shot]

You generally do not have to worry about the metering lever spring. They last for decades unless corroded.

Adjust the Lo just a hair fat from optimal, this gives enough fuel for quick acceleration and a bit of a cool down after extended WOT. Make sure adjustments are made with a warmed up motor and that the carb has had fuel in it for at least a day for the new diaphragms to settle in for final adjustments.