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BR550 Issues

Lone Wolf

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Wow! Do you guys ever sleep? I really appreciate the fast a great responses to this problem.

I guess, as the saying goes, in for a penny in for a pound, the best approach is to buy a new coil pack. They're fairly inexpensive and would either solve the problem or eliminate ignition from the equation. Up until now I've not considered it since the plug was always dry after trying to restart this thing with many, many pulls. That's what led me down the path of fuel delivery. It might also be that there were multiple problems. I solved the fuel delivery problem by replacing everything up to and including the carb. Maybe now I'm left with a flaky coil pack as the remaining issue.

My plan is to purchase the pack and run this thing until it acts up again. Then replace it. If that doesn't work, I'm left with the jug and crank seals and I'll scrap the beast. I can't find a gap spec for the pack-to-magnet spacing. I'll perhaps use the classic business card approach or measure it before I replace it and use that gap.

Thanks again.
Wait till I check the specs tomorrow.
 

ray benson

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Wow! Do you guys ever sleep? I really appreciate the fast a great responses to this problem.

I guess, as the saying goes, in for a penny in for a pound, the best approach is to buy a new coil pack. They're fairly inexpensive and would either solve the problem or eliminate ignition from the equation. Up until now I've not considered it since the plug was always dry after trying to restart this thing with many, many pulls. That's what led me down the path of fuel delivery. It might also be that there were multiple problems. I solved the fuel delivery problem by replacing everything up to and including the carb. Maybe now I'm left with a flaky coil pack as the remaining issue.

My plan is to purchase the pack and run this thing until it acts up again. Then replace it. If that doesn't work, I'm left with the jug and crank seals and I'll scrap the beast. I can't find a gap spec for the pack-to-magnet spacing. I'll perhaps use the classic business card approach or measure it before I replace it and use that gap.

Thanks again.
Check your inbox for an ipl and service manual
 

Lone Wolf

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First pic is at the coil hot connector and boot with eng cold.
 

Roger

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First pic is at the coil hot connector and boot with eng cold.


Thanks. Your measurement is between the plug wire and ground. Mine were between the coil tap and the plug wire, and coil tap and ground. In other words, I was on the other spade connector.
 

Roger

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Thanks. Your measurement is between the plug wire and ground. Mine were between the coil tap and the plug wire, and coil tap and ground. In other words, I was on the other spade connector.


Never mind, I see one pic between the coil tap and plug wire. Is that reading 2.302 Ω, kΩ or MΩ. It's hard to see the meter.
 

Roger

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Check your inbox for an ipl and service manual


Thanks. I appreciate the information. 0.2 mm is about as thin as paper, which is interesting. I'll double check, but I don't think the gap on my blower is that small.

BTW, two PostIt notes stuck together is 0.203 mm. Perfect!
 
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Lone Wolf

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Never mind, I see one pic between the coil tap and plug wire. Is that reading 2.302 Ω, or MΩ. It's hard to see the meter.
First pic MΩ Second pic Second pic kΩ
 

Roger

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First pic MΩ Second pic Second pic kΩ

Okay. That's interesting. That's between the coil tap and plug. I measured only 20 kΩ on mine -- over two orders of magnitude lower than yours. I know that that the BR 600 and BR 550 use the same coil. Makes me wonder how mine is working at all. Yours does run well, right?
 

Roger

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Okay. That's interesting. That's between the coil tap and plug. I measured only 20 kΩ on mine -- over two orders of magnitude lower than yours. I know that that the BR 600 and BR 550 use the same coil. Makes me wonder how mine is working at all. Yours does run well, right?

Wait. I think I have this. There are active components inside the coil pack. I suspect that if you reverse the leads on your ohmmeter you'll forward bias a junction and measure closer to mine. Can you try that?
 

Lone Wolf

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Wait. I think I have this. There are active components inside the coil pack. I suspect that if you reverse the leads on your ohmmeter you'll forward bias a junction and measure closer to mine. Can you try that?
Tell me exactly where you want the hot and neg leads and where and I will post it up for you in a few hours I got to go to work .
 

Marshy

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Some spark plug boots have an internal resistor in them. Just FYI.
 

Roger

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Tell me exactly where you want the hot and neg leads and where and I will post it up for you in a few hours I got to go to work .

Red lead on the plug wire
Black lead on the coil tap (not ground).

In other words, just like the first pic that measured 2.302 MΩ, but reverse the leads.

Thanks. I appreciate all this.
 
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Roger

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Some spark plug boots have an internal resistor in them. Just FYI.

Yes, some do to mitigate EMI. However, 2 MΩ is way too high for that application.
 

breese

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I went thru and read the entire thread... there is no mention of the plug....
With the age of this unit, have you recently replaced the plug?
I see it has an NGK. I do not know what plug it needs...
If you did recently replace it, was it just before the problems started?
 

Roger

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I went thru and read the entire thread... there is no mention of the plug....
With the age of this unit, have you recently replaced the plug?
I see it has an NGK. I do not know what plug it needs...
If you did recently replace it, was it just before the problems started?

Plug has not been replaced. It's NGK and original to the blower. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll change it this weekend. Cheaper than a new coil at least.
 

Lone Wolf

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r
Plug has not been replaced. It's NGK and original to the blower. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll change it this weekend. Cheaper than a new coil at least.
The blower is out on a job right now i will have the specs some time this afternoon or tonight.
 
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