Best saw for a newbie to port

[SawSeeker]

Here's somewhat of a list of stihl clamshell saws.

015, 017, 018, 019, 021, 023, 025, 029, 039, ms150, ms170, ms171, ms180, ms181, ms190t, ms192t, ms210, ms211, ms230, ms231, ms250, ms251, ms270, ms271 ms280, ms290, ms291, ms310, ms311, ms390, ms391.

So pretty much every Stihl I ever come across. Lol

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[Dub11]

Just scored a Jonesered 2150 from the for sale section! Whoop whoop! I'll be searching porting vids all night! Thanks guys

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Here is some good info too. And you can find heads for these saws with the removable transfer covers on ebay for $20-30 if you want something to practice on bebefore you throw the oem head on there.

http://opeforum.com/threads/part-one-the-exhaust-port.7279/ And theres like 7 or 8 parts.

 

[SawSeeker]

Here is some good info too. And you can find heads for these saws with the removable transfer covers on ebay for $20-30 if you want something to practice on bebefore you throw the oem head on there.

http://opeforum.com/threads/part-one-the-exhaust-port.7279/ And theres like 7 or 8 parts.

Thanks!

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[Wolverine]

Those removable covers really make it easier for a newb. No right angle grinder needed.
2150 was my cherry too:

It's not going to beat a 346 top end, but it was all done by me. Awesome learning experience.

 

[P.M.P.]

Those removable covers really make it easier for a newb. No right angle grinder needed.
2150 was my cherry too:

It's not going to beat a 346 top end, but it was all done by me. Awesome learning experience.

Black cherry my favorite ice cream.

 

[P.M.P.]

I've gotten pretty good at finding old saws to tinker with and get running but I'm ready to try a little port work. I don't plan on messing with timing or squish just yet, just some widening and smoothing. Is there a saw out there that you guys would recommend? Something fairly inexpensive and easy to find (in case I screw it up) but also worth messing with. Preferably not a clamshell design for obvious reasons.

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If it were me I would just send it someone that knows WTF they are doing. I just *f-word chit up.

 

[Wolverine]

Black cherry my favorite ice cream.

 

[MattG]

I've gotten pretty good at finding old saws to tinker with and get running but I'm ready to try a little port work. I don't plan on messing with timing or squish just yet, just some widening and smoothing. Is there a saw out there that you guys would recommend? Something fairly inexpensive and easy to find (in case I screw it up) but also worth messing with. Preferably not a clamshell design for obvious reasons.

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Personally I think setting up the squish is the first thing you should do. It was for me when I first started messing out with the engines.

Furthermore, a 2-stroke engine will best benefit from all those other mods you do far more if you've got the squish at it's optimal clearance.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Yeah, start with a long read, everything you could do with that saw /want to/can do.
Sqwish, timing adv, muff, etc, worth checking each step, then you know where the improvements are comming from

 

[Cracker Boy]

If it were me I would just send it someone that knows WTF they are doing. I just *f-word chit up.

Me too i tried to modify a fishing mold one time. It looked like i was drunk blindfolded and did it with my feet.kinda like jms saws

 

[Al Smith]

Don't fear the reaper .Just do simple stuff like relieving the restricted muffler,maybe widen the ex port a tad .You can do that with a round file and a piece of sandpaper .Don't let anybody pull your leg you can improve a clam shell design also .

 

[Cracker Boy]

Don't fear the reaper .Just do simple stuff like relieving the restricted muffler,maybe widen the ex port a tad .You can do that with a round file and a piece of sandpaper .Don't let anybody pull your leg you can improve a clam shell design also .

Yeah simple muff mod.pain to work on not worth rebuilding.dumpster saw imo.

 

[MattG]

If the OP is still reading I'd recommend he tries to measure his current squish first. There's loads of you-tubes on that subject.

M. Weba's is a very good intro

(remember thin 1mm solder)

If you get that far, we can then help out with setting the clearance with different gaskets, or hand machining (it's actually very easy!) the band on your cylinder.

Dont worrry, about breaking stuff. You won't if you plan your work first and approach with adequate caution.

 

[SawSeeker]

If you get that far, we can then help out with setting the clearance with different gaskets, or hand machining (it's actually very easy!) the band on your cylinder.


I didn't know hand machining was a thing! I'll be checking into that for sure. Thanks!

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[MattG]

If you get that far, we can then help out with setting the clearance with different gaskets, or hand machining (it's actually very easy!) the band on your cylinder.


I didn't know hand machining was a thing! I'll be checking into that for sure. Thanks!

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What I'm referring to is the act of using a piston with a suitable cutting material fixed to it as a mandrel to cut a squish band.

If you read all posts on this thread, you'll get an idea: EDIT: sorry I linked the wrong thread! See my next post! #37

in particular, this one, is where you fix a piece of emery paper to piston, and basically use the whole rig as a kind of "poor man's lathe"...

#22

so that's what I was meaning by "hand-machining". See what you think.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Belt sander on the base then......... If you go to far,

 

[MattG]

@SawSeeker

Arrgh!!!

I meant this thread!

http://opeforum.com/threads/measuring-squish-on-my-ms200t.7275

Sorry

 

[SawSeeker]

@SawSeeker

Arrgh!!!

I meant this thread!

http://opeforum.com/threads/measuring-squish-on-my-ms200t.7275

Sorry

I meant what you knew. Lol.
Great suggestion!

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[MattG]

I meant what you knew. Lol.
Great suggestion!

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Yes on my 200T I found that the (MAHLE) factory that left those casting imperfections on the top of the jug. They protruded by about 0.15mm, and with the factory base gasket, the clearance beneath the protrusions was about ~0.85mm.

So I threw away the BG, leaving me 0.35mm (too tight) clearance at the tightest point (i.e. below the protrusions) so I ground them off, giving me about 0.5mm squish - which for that size of engine is basically ideal. That, in itself, is very worthwhile, with the engine running more powerful and more economical.

It's very easy to do.....but much easier if you have a spare (old?) piston to use as your grinder, because I'd advise you to check your squish accurately quite often. As well as keeping it clean!

Bear in mind, that if you want to set your squish, by making thin gaskets (sometimes works) remember to repeat a couple times since the gasket will squeeze and bring your measurement down. That's why I prefer the no gasket approach, which with a bit of sealant seals just as well as with gasket - if not better.

 

[T.Roller]

Even numbers are Pro saws. Odd numbers are clammies.

Example......

026 = pro
025 = clammie

261....