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Atop file guide & Milling?

Marshy

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Anyone use the Atop square file guide for milling chains?

http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...des/Atop-Square-Filing-Guide-with-2-Files.axd

I was considering it as a way to accurately square filled chain for bucking as well as maybe milling. Just wondering if anyone has used it for millling and what your thoughts were.

I want to get more serious about square filed chain but dont want the full cost of a grinder. The Atop is probably the cheapest option but has no ability to alter the tooth profile.
 

brshephard

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I haven't personally used an ATOP, but from what I understand they file a pretty aggressive tooth. You may or may not like it depending on what wood you are milling.

I would suggest trying to find a member with an ATOP and trade him some beer to convert a chain for you first. That way you could see if the angles will work for you before you spend the money.

Alternately, you could look into modifying a granberg file guide to square file. Basically you install a bushing on either end of a hexagonal file to hold it in the granberg. This option would allow you to change angles and would be cheaper.
I believe there are a few threads on this conversion on arboristsite.
 

Dub11

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I know @mdavlee prefers square toof for milling.
 

Dub11

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I haven't personally used an ATOP, but from what I understand they file a pretty aggressive tooth. You may or may not like it depending on what wood you are milling.

I would suggest trying to find a member with an ATOP and trade him some beer to convert a chain for you first. That way you could see if the angles will work for you before you spend the money.

Alternately, you could look into modifying a granberg file guide to square file. Basically you install a bushing on either end of a hexagonal file to hold it in the granberg. This option would allow you to change angles and would be cheaper.
I believe there are a few threads on this conversion on arboristsite.

O I would like to see that thread
 

huskihl

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Alternately, you could look into modifying a granberg file guide to square file. Basically you install a bushing on either end of a hexagonal file to hold it in the granberg. This option would allow you to change angles and would be cheaper.
I believe there are a few threads on this conversion on arboristsite.
Or just find a used one on ebay that has triangular shaped file holders on the ends

Screenshot_20180308-210128.png
 

brshephard

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Or just find a used one on ebay that has triangular shaped file holders on the ends

View attachment 136121

That would work also. A guy just needs a way to control the file "roll"
Here the guy used the triangular style guide and ground a taper on the set screws to let the file roll a bit:
Screenshot_20180807-002508.png
O I would like to see that thread
Here is a link that describes the whole granberg square filing process.
This guy goes into some serious detail, probably a six pack worth of reading.

http://treefalling.com
 

huskihl

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That would work also. A guy just needs a way to control the file "roll"
Here the guy used the triangular style guide and ground a taper on the set screws to let the file roll a bit:
View attachment 136144

Here is a link that describes the whole granberg square filing process.
This guy goes into some serious detail, probably a six pack worth of reading.

http://treefalling.com
A double bevel fits, may have to slightly grind down the wide end.
The chain stop controls forward lean to a certain extent. But it is difficult to make a chain with forward lean on the cutters.

A friend gave me a new Tecomec, same as Oregon, with the flat file holders. I machined a set of barrels for it like you mentioned. I could get any amount of forward lean I wanted like that. Pretty cool. The only problem would be that they have to be "calibrated" equally, since you need to roll the file 70-80° to file the opposite cutters. I never actually did this step, as I found an older style jig with the triangle shaped ends and it works well enough
 

brshephard

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A double bevel fits, may have to slightly grind down the wide end.
The chain stop controls forward lean to a certain extent. But it is difficult to make a chain with forward lean on the cutters.

A friend gave me a new Tecomec, same as Oregon, with the flat file holders. I machined a set of barrels for it like you mentioned. I could get any amount of forward lean I wanted like that. Pretty cool. The only problem would be that they have to be "calibrated" equally, since you need to roll the file 70-80° to file the opposite cutters. I never actually did this step, as I found an older style jig with the triangle shaped ends and it works well enough

You should do a how-to thread, I bet there would be alot of interest.
 

brshephard

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The problem is the couple hours of lathe work that's required. A mill would sure be handy to make the slot for the file.

If there was enough interest would you be willing to machine and sell a turnkey guide?

I figure there must be a market. Simington and ATOP are really the only other options
 

Wolverine

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I prefer square filed for milling. It's quicker and more durable than round I've used. It's not easy for me to use the double bevel while the saw is in the mill though. On one side the rails interfere a bit. Whatever you do decide on, make sure you can mount it with the mill rails because you are going to touch up a good bit if you mill a lot of hardwoods. A pass or 2 and you're back in business.
 
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Marshy

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Well, I do have a file-n-joing from granberg. I'm going to attempt to put my 6 sided file in it following the link above.
 

Leeroy

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Marshy consider buying 25' roll of square ground chain and some files. May take some time but you'll get it. I use semi skip and get a finish like a large commercial band mill makes. Much faster than specialized ripping chain. My chain is probably 5-6 degrees when milling.
 
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