Archer chain

[Wilhelm]

First I have to note that this is the only Archer chain that I own, use, have ever owned or used.

The chain I own is "good" , it:
+ will get a good sharp edge when filing and grinding (I am new to grinding, still adjusting and getting used to it)
+ will hold it's edge fairly well (I buck skidded beech and oak logs - dirty bark is the norm)
+ after the initial stretch it doesn't gain length on every half tank full of fuel
+ runs smooth around the saws and bars sprockets
- dislikes bore cutting, feeds poorly (compared to Oregon LGX/Dolmar 099)
- dislikes being buried full length, almost stops feeding if the bar tip doesn't poke out on the other side of the log (compared to Oregon LGX/Dolmar 099)
- dislikes hard oak knots, feeds poorly (compared to Oregon LGX/Dolmar 099)

I do not know the pricing on these Archer loops, but they perform significantly better than the TriLink loops I have purchased to give a try.
I am curious to see how this loop of mine will hold up down the road - will it live old age and become "toothless" or will it "break the backbone" with 1/4th to 1/3rd life left in its teeth like my two worn TriLink loops did.

I got this loop in "as new" condition mounted on a used saw I purchased.
I doubt I will purchase any Archer chains on purpose any time soon.

DISCLAIMER:
The above is my own observation and opinion, results may vary under different conditions, chain production batches and types, wood species, applications.

 

[Philbert]

Nice summary.

Timed videos are one way to compare chains, but there can be so many variations in the wood cut, how they take an edge, how they hold up, etc. So I appreciate your comments.

The observations about bore cutting and full length cutting are interesting, especially compared to other chains on the same saws. Might this be due to different cutter profiles (assuming that all chains are similarly sharpened)?

Thanks!

Philbert

 

[Wilhelm]

My approach to reshaping the Archer chains rakers.
The before and after picture is not showing the exact same tooth!


The teeth were still round filed at this point - they have been round ground since, the gullet is now deeper.

 

[Wilhelm]

Nice summary.

Timed videos are one way to compare chains, but there can be so many variations in the wood cut, how they take an edge, how they hold up, etc. So I appreciate your comments.

The observations about bore cutting and full length cutting are interesting, especially compared to other chains on the same saws. Might this be due to different cutter profiles (assuming that all chains are similarly sharpened)?

Thanks!

Philbert

I don't really know what makes "my" Archer loop such a poor bore and buried performer Philbert.
But the TriLink loops are even worse in that regard.

If I had more loops of the Archer brand I would certainly try and figure out where the performance difference comes from, but once I wear out this one loop I am done with Archer (read I will not actively be looking into buying any Archer chains, and the same goes for TriLink).

It can not be the sharpening method, I file (grind since recently) all my chains myself - it must be a difference in the cutters profile (it sure is on the TriLink chains).

EDIT/P.S.:
As I keep noting, I am just a homeowner firewood hack and I know little of anything at best.
All I want form my chains is that they cut "well" under any given circumstances.
I do not chase after timed cuts.
I like the feel and sound of my saws running under proper load and I greatly dislike utilization of my saws bucking spikes.
My videos show real life performance in fairly hard wood species of varying density (knotty logs).
All my chains are round filed 5.5mm till ~half life /4.8mm till death, currently only two loops are being round ground with a dremel type grinder as test loops.

 

[Philbert]

We often compare chains just by 'pitch', and a few other variables: 'full' or semi' chisel; low kickback; etc. But the shape / geometry of the cutters can vary between manufacturers and models. I know that there are full time engineers at Oregon, STIHL, etc, that spend their time at CAD workstations and test fixtures, comparing performance differences when making changes of a few degrees here and there in the cutter shapes that we take for granted.

As with anything, there are probably some trade offs between different types of performance metrics, species of wood, etc.

Your comments on boring performance (versus 'exciting' performance?) suggests, maybe, a difference in cutter shape, or relationship to the depth gauge, or . . . ? Some of these differences may be very subtle, and require some machinist type skills and equipment to accurately measure. Lacking those capabilities, we rely on on our own performance experiences, or on helpful reviews by guys like you!

Philbert

 

[jakethesnake]

Well just looking at it. I’m not sure I love it.

Time will tell. I am going to use it especially for falling. I have a loop of Oregon jgx that is sharpened up with tall depth guages. I’m going to swap them out and give this a go. I do bore most of my maple trees as that’s a technique I’m familiar with that helps to keep those hateful buggars from barber chairing. I’ll give it my best opinion. This may take a while but it’ll happen. I like tall guages as that helps me when I bore. Also my saw is 70cc with 32 bar. We will see

 

[Nutball]

My standard chain on my 2188 is a 20" full skip with the depth gauges low enough to about put a max load on the engine without having to press on the saw much at all. Absolutely impossible to bore cut. The only thing you will accomplish with my chain is stretching it while trying to bore cut from all of the kickback stalls.

I usually find I can bore well enough with as much as 1-2 strokes of a 6" file taken off the depth gauges on a new skip chain, but I'm sure careful with it.

 

[RI Chevy]

Just watch closely Jake, the Archer stretches during the 1st cut. I wouldnt bore cut or fell a tree with it right away. Make some cross cuts with it until it stretches out.

 

[jakethesnake]

My standard chain on my 2188 is a 20" full skip with the depth gauges low enough to about put a max load on the engine without having to press on the saw much at all. Absolutely impossible to bore cut. The only thing you will accomplish with my chain is stretching it while trying to bore cut from all of the kickback stalls.

I usually find I can bore well enough with as much as 1-2 strokes of a 6" file taken off the depth gauges on a new skip chain, but I'm sure careful with it.

You don’t want an aggressive chain when you’re boring a lot. I do a lot of maples that way as I don’t know some of the other more advanced cuts as well. I’ve Barber chaired a couple and you damn sure don’t wanna let that happen. And you damn sure wanna clear out if it does happen. A falling chain needs to be sharp. Not
Aggressive though.

 

[jakethesnake]

I’m almost sure I’ll hate this chain until I get it sharpened back till it’s within my specs. New Oregon is more aggressive than I want a chain to be for my taste. To be fair my saw setup is better for softwoods with that length bar. However it’s lighter than my 288 so that’s the one I like

 

[Philbert]

Archer (US) recently launched a US website, where a lot of their products are shown, and are selling some products on Amazon, as well as eBay.
https://archerplus.com They also distribute Tecomec products and TsuMura bars from those sites.

Philbert

 

[RI Chevy]

Thanks for sharing that Phil! [emoji482]

 

[3browns]

Thanks for sharing that Phil! [emoji482]

Plus 1

 

[jakethesnake]

I’m not gonna complain about stretch as I’m not sure it’s as bad as Oregon on a 32” bar.
I ended up letting a friend run the saw in some real bad dead oak and maple. All skidded. Initial grind is fine out of the box. Chain fed well enough to be expected. I did see occasional sparks fly. I believe that is due to the crude drive links “running themselves in”
In other words they are very scuffed up from just running a half tank of fuel.

So far it held a good edge through some dry skidded wood.

I rarely ever use this for anything other than falling green trees That’ll be where I like it or dislike it.

I’m not going to touch this chain up yet as when I do file it the cutter shape will be changed

I’m giving it an ok to good so far. On par with Oregon. And cheaper.

 

[jakethesnake]

I’m going to guess this chain is some of the freshest batch of archer made stuff.

The guy I contacted didn’t have this and had to have it made especially.

It came in an archer box with sharpie writing.

The chain came in a ziplock bag. Inside the box

 

[huskihl]

I’m going to guess this chain is some of the freshest batch of archer made stuff.

The guy I contacted didn’t have this and had to have it made especially.

It came in an archer box with sharpie writing.

The chain came in a ziplock bag. Inside the box

That's pretty good customer service

 

[jakethesnake]

That's pretty good customer service

That guy is straight. He was all over helping out with emails. They’re also going to offer 3/8 .058 semi chisel skip. They’re making it now. I asked him to email me back when it was available. I wanted to try it for stumps that is impossible to find. Hard enough in other guages. I did find it in .050. I think they may actually be a sorta serious chain and accessory shop

 

[RI Chevy]

Just means it is off the roll chain vs. a factory boxed loop.

 

[jakethesnake]

Just means it is off the roll chain vs. a factory boxed loop.

Yes. This is correct. Also means they’re still trying to come out with new rolls of chain.
Including 3/8 .058 semi chisel skip. I figure this is thier new stuff. Maybe some of the old old archer I read about could have been different stock is where I’m going with this.

I can find the semi chisel skip online from archer as in they have it. I cannot buy it yet though. Nor can my man Jerry score it.

 

[RI Chevy]

Check with @Redbull661. He may have what you're looking for.