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Anyone willing to loan me a Time sert m5x0.8?

Dub11

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I ordered from McMaster carr
Screenshot_20180523-173039_Samsung Internet.jpg

And I have a tracking number from them but no confirmation email yet lol.
 

Al Smith

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A little tip for those who don't know .For a tap hole size you deduct one thread spacing .Metric are given in thread spacing,SAE are given in threads per inch .So say 3/8-16 minus one thread spacing with be 5/16" and so on . M8 -1.25 tap hole size would be 6.75 mm Also an actual time sert brand is installed with a forming tap which expands the bottom threads to form a wedge type fit .--junk yard dawg at your service
 

Wilhelm

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I have a few of these lying around, outer M10x1.5, inner M6x1.0, brass.
DSC07443.JPG

I have yet to use one, but they should work fine as inserts.

Bore/thread: 2.5/M3x0.5 ; 3.3/M4x0.7 ; 4.2/M5x0.8 ; 5.1/M6x1.0 ; 6.7/M8x1.25 ; 8.5/M10x1.5

I know that 5.0 is specified for M6x1.0, but in my humble experience that's too tight - one can way too easy seize the tap within the bore. On high tension steel and cast iron I go 5.2mm bore.
Aluminum, copper and other soft metals I use 5.0mm bore to get a thread as tight as possible.
You want an new/sharp tap for threading aluminum.
 

Dub11

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Question on drilling magnesium. Is it preferable to drill by hand, to avoid over drilling the hole?
 

Wilhelm

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If You are talking drilling free hand You'll actually inevitably create a larger diameter hole, possibly oval in shape at the entry point.

A drill press might be a good idea.

Drill little by little and check depth often.

But I'm talking generally, I have no clue how magnesium behaves.
 

Onan18

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If You are talking drilling free hand You'll actually inevitably create a larger diameter hole, possibly oval in shape at the entry point.

A drill press might be a good idea.

Drill little by little and check depth often.

But I'm talking generally, I have no clue how magnesium behaves.


I usually don't even drill the hole out if in Mag or Al, just run the tap in, good to go.
 

Wilhelm

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I usually don't even drill the hole out if in Mag or Al, just run the tap in, good to go.
Well, that depends on the outer thread diameter the insert features, doesn't it?

A boogered M5 is fine for a direct M6, but not for a M8 unless the hole is really slapped out.

But there are exceptions, a coworker managed to thread a M10 into 6.7mm holes, the M10 tap broke eventually because it is coarser than a M8.
The mill didn't mind at all, it just kept running the wrongly replaced M10 into the 6.7mm holes not knowing it's not a M8.
I guess the coworker didn't know the difference either.
 

Onan18

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Well, that depends on the outer thread diameter the insert features, doesn't it?

A boogered M5 is fine for a direct M6, but not for a M8 unless the hole is really slapped out.

But there are exceptions, a coworker managed to thread a M10 into 6.7mm holes, the M10 tap broke eventually because it is coarser than a M8.
The mill didn't mind at all, it just kept running the wrongly replaced M10 into the 6.7mm holes not knowing it's not a M8.
I guess the coworker didn't know the difference either.


True, however for a Helicoil type kit it works every time.
 

Poleman

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I did/do everything free and and haven' had any issues egging a hole out. Some are already egged I I always hope the drill straightens them out and they have. I' sure I've been lucky so far. Haven' had any fail that I know of.....yet!!
 

smokey7

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Ive literally used thousands of those inserts showen on the last page from McMaster carr. I found on the holes that didnt have a super high thread percentage i would wire wheel off the coating tgat comes ob tge insert and use green retaining loctite 620 i think it is. If the incert is long or i dont think i can get it home before it sets up (think super glue speed) then i would use high strength red loctite on the cleaned bolt and hole (no oil).
 

Al Smith

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Another tip while I'm thinking about it .You are better off to use a spiral point tap than a fluted tap on not ferrous metals .Thread oil works but a product called
"tap magic " is better .A little can is not costly .Get the one that says for aluminum .
 

Dub11

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Another tip while I'm thinking about it .You are better off to use a spiral point tap than a fluted tap on not ferrous metals .Thread oil works but a product called
"tap magic " is better .A little can is not costly .Get the one that says for aluminum .

That's what we use in the repair shop at work........
 

huskyboy

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Jb weld should work too if you can’t find the retaining loctite. Bet the case breaks before the loctite or jb gives in lol.
 
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