Any miracle way of sorting stripped screw threads in casing...

[PA Dan]

Gotcha

Trying these inserts and giving it a go seems the logical choice. It seems you guys are having luck using inserts or helicoils. I can't see why there would be any issue considering the threads will only be taking a plastic trim being held down.

Exactly it's only holding a top cover! Just needs to hold tight enough to seal the airbox!

 

[Chainganger]

I have a 262 with top cover threads all messed up. My best guess is that this is common with this saw not because of a ham fisted operator tightening the screws too much but because vibration tears the threads apart once installed.

 

[srcarr52]

When they get a little loose the vibration of the steel fastener wears the magnesium away fast.

 

[Adamski]

When they get a little loose the vibration of the steel fastener wears the magnesium away fast.

Never really understood how people don't keep onto of loose screws, bolts etc.. It seems like basic fundamentals to me...

 

[angelo c]

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Never really understood how people don't keep onto of loose screws, bolts etc.. It seems like basic fundamentals to me...

See: mufflers of the 028 variety.

Nice pointers in this thread. I'll add that an m5 timsert can deal with a larger hole as long as there's enough meat at the end. It's recessed so that aids in the bond (surface area for loctite).
JBweld is great for building up material. I like the helicoil or sert being added rather than tapping the epoxy itself.

 

[Adamski]

See: mufflers of the 028 variety.

Nice pointers in this thread. I'll add that an m5 timsert can deal with a larger hole as long as there's enough meat at the end. It's recessed so that aids in the bond (surface area for loctite).
JBweld is great for building up material. I like the helicoil or sert being added rather than tapping the epoxy itself.

Yep I get mufflers etc coming loose I bought a 2150 that had burn damage to the muffler. Decent thread lock/loctite solves this. But on plastic parts you can pretty much tell when they're torqued down enough. But to allow the threads to strip from vibration or over tightening is just a sin for any competent machinery user IMO..

 

[Al Smith]

Time serts are probably the best but they are costly if you have to buy them .The inserts have a counter sunk flange and you expend the base using a forming tap .They won't work loose .
If anybody cares to you can Google time serts to watch a vid on how they work and how to install them .We use them at work .

 

[Canadian farm boy]

Repaired lower spike mounting hole with a timesert. Imo if you have to repair a stripped bolt hole and can't weld it up and retap it's the best way to do it

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Repaired lower spike mounting hole with a timesert. Imo if you have to repair a stripped bolt hole and can't weld it up and retap it's the best way to do it
View attachment 75750

I've done a ton of those in the last few years. Nice pic!

 

[Onan18]

Repaired lower spike mounting hole with a timesert. Imo if you have to repair a stripped bolt hole and can't weld it up and retap it's the best way to do it
View attachment 75750

Boy, that looks strangely familiar for some odd reason.

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

440--- I put the inserts in after case assembly since I use heat (a lot of heat).

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Countersinking bit as Al mentioned above.

 

[Al Smith]

As I understand it Roush racing time serts every aluminum block engine they rework into a race engine .They build pretty good engines so there must be something to it .

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

As I understand it Roush racing time serts every aluminum block engine they rework into a race engine .They build pretty good engines so there must be something to it .

Yep. I wonder--- has anyone tried to back one out? Once it has set up, of course...?

 

[Al Smith]

They claim you can back them out with an easy out . http://www.timesert.com/html/faq.html look under freq asked questions

 

[Chainganger]

Look what I found at Menards, metric threaded steel insert with a slot on top, need to figure out tap size

 

[Chainganger]

Inside must be 5mm and outside 8mm

 

[Al Smith]

A stripped out M5 by .8 is almost the same tap hole as an M6 by 1 . A good two fluke spiral point tap will take it right out to M6 if you wanted to go that route instead of using an insert .If nothing else run an M5 drill bit first if you don't trust the spiral point .
Rule of thumb for those who don't know .SAE threads are given in threads per inch,metric is by thread spacing .For the drill size you drop one thread spacing .M6 1 would therefore be M5 3/8" 16 would be 5/16" etc .

 

[teacherman]

Maybe you could hillbilly it and epoxy some studs in the holes and use nuts to tighten the cover down?

Old Harleys had areal problem of exhaust pipe bolts stripping out, and they now have studs with nuts. I know that sounds rather masculine..., but that's what it is. I read a recommendation to do that with old knucklehead and panhead exhaust mounts.