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Any miracle way of sorting stripped screw threads in casing...

Adamski

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Other than drilling oversize and tapping new threads...

Or drilling out and putting in inserts...

I have a 262xp with stripped top cover threads.

All have been tapped one size larger in the past and the idiot before me has still managed to strip them, I mean it is just a plastic cover being torqued down..

Not enough material to use an insert, is there some miracle epoxy that would stand up to me taking the cover on and off. Just want to restore this saw to a usable condition, everything else seems in good condition i.e seals, bearings, crank so I am loathed to strip the and replace the case if there is a good substitute.
 

Adamski

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Pc7 works ok for that. Jb weld isn't bad if you're gentle afterwards. Neither as good as metal.

Yep guessed as much regards the no substitute for metal. Might just have to suck it up and replace the case halves.
 

Homemade

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I'd talk to a local weld shop and see if they would tig it shut. They might even drill and tap them for you cheaper then case halfs and your time to do the tear down.


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srcarr52

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I'd talk to a local weld shop and see if they would tig it shut. They might even drill and tap them for you cheaper then case halfs and your time to do the tear down.


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Not very many weld shops will weld magnesium.

A good time-sert with the drive in locking pins is probably the best solution as long as there is material left on the case to do so. A few pictures would help. If not then welding is the only way, he'll have to find a shop on his side of the pond willing to weld it. They'll need a decent AC tig welder, AZ92A rod works the best.
 

Basher

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Adamski

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I have measured the wallowed out holes, they range from a tad over 6mm at the top to around m5 threads barely there at the bottom. I have bought some m5 brass inserts that are tap in with one way tangs. They require a 7.0mm hole to give a good interference fit. I have enough material to get a neat 7.0mm drill down them. It took some searching to find inserts that were slim on the OD. Just got to get the last snapped screw from the 3rd top cover hole out. It is literally 5mm deep down into the hole and not a nice surface to get a drill centred on. The drill just wants to wander to the edge.. Damn it.... My centre punch also hits the hole edges before I can get to the top of the screw. Really I don't understand how people can well and truly F88K up threads in a case when tightening plastic down...
 

PA Dan

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I had one on a 262 and did this a few years ago. Same as Stumpshot except I used JB weld. Has held up so far! Here's another that I have to do!
a51ca3a7e863406e181ee2832b4f64b6.jpg
b59020edb0ace9e268a239f56cba6b5d.jpg
 

Adamski

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Yep! Got them that way!
I guessed this wasn't your handy work. The ones on mine are not that bad, it's just getting the remains of the screw out of the one nearest the kill switch on mine. It is so far in and snapped that I cannot get to it or even drill it easily. I am guessing I might have to open the inside edge (carb side) of the hole out and prize the screw out. Then do a neat epoxy weld to build up the lost material. If this doesn't work then I shall replace the cases. But it is a strong saw with good compression, all seals and bearings are fine and the P&C are spotless so I would prefer not to tear it down completely..
 

PA Dan

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Mine still had part of the screw left and the previous owner tried drilling it out. He failed miserably! I got it out but the hole was huge and I was missing a lot of metal on the inside of the hole. The JB was easy to work with and the helicoil gave me metal threads.
 

Adamski

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No I cut a strip about 1/4" x 3/8" and wrapped it around the hole. I believe part is showing through the JB in my first pic.

Gotcha :)

Trying these inserts and giving it a go seems the logical choice. It seems you guys are having luck using inserts or helicoils. I can't see why there would be any issue considering the threads will only be taking a plastic trim being held down.
:borra2:
 
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