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huskyboy

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I'm gonna say 2-3 turns out on low side is the problem. Not familiar with the saw but I usually end up around 3/4 of a turn on low side and 1-1 1/4 turn out on high

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Not all saws have the preset around 1 turn but it is a good starting point
 

Homemade

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Well the fuel pump side still leaks slowly even after putting some sealer on the gasket mating surface. How much is an acceptable amount of leak down. I can try and put some sealer on the carb body to diaphragm and diaphragm to gasket before I totally replace the carb.
 

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Contacted walbro. Told them after a gasket kit, carb will still not hold 7psi and will leak down to 0. He pretty much told me the carb it junk.
 

Mkinslow

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Could be bud I'm going through similar problems on a carb of mine.
Contacted walbro. Told them after a gasket kit, carb will still not hold 7psi and will leak down to 0. He pretty much told me the carb it junk.

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Stump Shot

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Contacted walbro. Told them after a gasket kit, carb will still not hold 7psi and will leak down to 0. He pretty much told me the carb it junk.

If it is warped it pretty much is. You can check this with a straight edge on both sides. Sometimes you can re-flatten the surface with a flat file or sandpaper on some glass, depending on what you have going on.
While pressurized, dunk in a clear jar of water to confirm where exactly your leak is and go from there.
 

Homemade

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I’ll try and get a video. $30 for a new oem carb, $10 for an oem kit. If I new the carb was only 30 I would have never waisted my time on the kit or the doner saw (original carb had striped out fuel pump cover screw)
 

countryhog

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I would think the carb might have enough meat for you to put the next size larger screw in place of the offending screw. Whattayagittoloose?
 

Homemade

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Well, I pressurized the leaky carb under water. Yup, one tiny bubble near the metering needle that didn’t grow. And several bubbles on fuel pump side. The new one showed up and I promptly threw the junk one in the trash.
 

countryhog

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Well, I pressurized the leaky carb under water. Yup, one tiny bubble near the metering needle that didn’t grow. And several bubbles on fuel pump side. The new one showed up and I promptly threw the junk one in the trash.
Might wanna save it for parts. Like when that spring escapes. Got any number on my shop floor. Jusayin
Does the new one work? OE or AM?
 

Homemade

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Might wanna save it for parts. Like when that spring escapes. Got any number on my shop floor. Jusayin

I did save the 4 cover screws, but like I said before. For $30 I get a compleat oem carb, I don’t know why I bothered with as much as I did.
 

fuelie1

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You really pressure/vac the carb once its on the saw. I will use some brasso cleaner on a q tip, and clean the needle seat assembly, that normally will prevent the needle from sticking. You can use a straight end to adjust the height of the float just be sure the tang isnt higher that the housing of the carb.
 

Ford3000

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The new carb would he a good bet, it will most likely be set as well.
Either way, if you have too much fuel on the high and come off throttle
it will hang the saw at idle, and if Low is already too fat it will definitely hang it.
Set the low with the High out a turn, it could be lean, but you don't
want to be on the High much when setting the low, the low is all about getting enough fuel to rev up with no hesitation, too much fuel on the low will cause
hesitation, like trying to swallow too big a mouth full, get the low right first,
then set the High a little rich until you hear the four stroking, that four stroking
should leave when the saw hits the wood and return as soon as the pressure is
lifted off the saw a bit.
 
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