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394XP - Work Saw Rebuild

Duke Thieroff

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In my search for a mechanically sound crank case half I stumbled across this one on eBay. As it turns out, this thing is so nice it meets PSP standards. No cracks, no corrosion and barely any noticeable chips in the finish. Couldn’t be happier with this for my saw.

View attachment 164884
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View attachment 164885

After conversing via email I found out the seller is a member here with a solid reputation as a good dude. Check him out if you need some parts, you won’t be disappointed. Thanks again @Duke Thieroff

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Hey!
Thanks for the shout out bud!

Awesome job on the saw, you offered up a ton of helpful tips. This reminds me that I need to get back into the shop to put something together instead of always taking things apart.
 

XP_Slinger

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Thanks for tossing that out there. Both of my 394s have no provisions for mounting the guard.
My brother has an in betweener 394. The bosses were cast into the case but weren’t drilled and tapped. I believe his is a 96’ model but @RIDE-RED 350r would have to confirm.
 

XP_Slinger

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Hey!
Thanks for the shout out bud!

Awesome job on the saw, you offered up a ton of helpful tips. This reminds me that I need to get back into the shop to put something together instead of always taking things apart.
Anytime Duke! And thanks for the compliment bud, much appreciated.:beer-toast1:
 

qurotro

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Good thread man. But i wanna know how's your way to file to key to get advanced timing? My stupid hands just don't like doing it.
 

Onan18

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I can personally attest to how much time it takes to do a thread like this. Not just the time to post but also having to stop and take pictures along the way, lay things out where they can be seen, lighting, glare, etc... It makes a two hour job into a 4 - 6 hour job or more. Kudos Josh for taking the time to do such a well documented rebuild.
 

grizz55chev

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Ignition and flywheel assembly.

First install the air injection duct.

View attachment 164990

Next install flywheel then the coil with 2 fasteners and set the gap to .012. Route kill wire and spark plug wire as shown.

View attachment 164994

Shaved the key for a timing advance.

View attachment 164992

Coil took some damage when this saw got wheel chocked. OCD is telling me to replace it, but since the saw ran fine with it I’m going to run it til it fails. If this were a saw for someone else I would recommend replacement.

View attachment 164991

Last thing was some shrink wrap on the plug lead to protect some areas that are chaffing. Again, I wouldn’t bandaid this if it were for anyone other than myself.

View attachment 164993
Put those damaged legs of your coil in a vice and squash them back flat, won’t hurt a thing!
 

XP_Slinger

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Good thread man. But i wanna know how's your way to file to key to get advanced timing? My stupid hands just don't like doing it.
You’re gonna laugh. Since I consider myself a hack, I used a hacksaw...lol! Clamped the key in my vice and managed to cut a blade width off which came out to be about .035. A little more than my usuall but you never know anything til you give it a try. Dressed it up after the cut with a small file, didn’t take much.
 

XP_Slinger

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I can personally attest to how much time it takes to do a thread like this. Not just the time to post but also having to stop and take pictures along the way, lay things out where they can be seen, lighting, glare, etc... It makes a two hour job into a 4 - 6 hour job or more. Kudos Josh for taking the time to do such a well documented rebuild.
Thanks Joe. Means a lot coming from you bud:beer-toast1:
 

huskihl

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Forgot to mention previously. After the carb is installed check to make sure the throttle arm has full rage of motion from the idle stop to the WOT stop. If it’s not resting on the idle stop check the cable on the trigger end, the housing is likely not seated properly in its recess.

Resting on idle stop.

View attachment 164961

Full travel to WOT stop (carb housing). Good to go.

View attachment 164960
I've seen a couple 394/5's not open the throttle all the way. The carburetor bolts have enough slack in them to where you can rotate the carburetor clockwise against the bolts and retighten them to take care of this slack. Might help somebody down the road
 

srcarr52

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I've seen a couple 394/5's not open the throttle all the way. The carburetor bolts have enough slack in them to where you can rotate the carburetor clockwise against the bolts and retighten them to take care of this slack. Might help somebody down the road

I just make a shim out of aluminum for the throttle cable end. Just drill a hole, slit it and crimp it on the cable.
 

qurotro

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You’re gonna laugh. Since I consider myself a hack, I used a hacksaw...lol! Clamped the key in my vice and managed to cut a blade width off which came out to be about .035. A little more than my usuall but you never know anything til you give it a try. Dressed it up after the cut with a small file, didn’t take much.
That takes even more skill than using a small file lol... I might try use dremel tools next time.
 

XP_Slinger

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I've seen a couple 394/5's not open the throttle all the way. The carburetor bolts have enough slack in them to where you can rotate the carburetor clockwise against the bolts and retighten them to take care of this slack. Might help somebody down the road

Sometimes the throttle linkage pivot piece in the handle wears out too letting it get too much slop.

I just make a shim out of aluminum for the throttle cable end. Just drill a hole, slit it and crimp it on the cable.

Great info guys! This is what I enjoy most about putting up a thread like this, lots a guys start sharing experience.
 

Cobby08

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You’re gonna laugh. Since I consider myself a hack, I used a hacksaw...lol! Clamped the key in my vice and managed to cut a blade width off which came out to be about .035. A little more than my usuall but you never know anything til you give it a try. Dressed it up after the cut with a small file, didn’t take much.
Got ya beat... on a lazy day I've used a pneumatic cutoff tool. haha... No shame in my game.
 
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