394XP - Work Saw Rebuild

[XP_Slinger]

Forgot to mention previously. After the carb is installed check to make sure the throttle arm has full rage of motion from the idle stop to the WOT stop. If it’s not resting on the idle stop check the cable on the trigger end, the housing is likely not seated properly in its recess.

Resting on idle stop.



Full travel to WOT stop (carb housing). Good to go.

 

[qurotro]

A little advice: use a little of 1184 when install the oil line to prevent future oil leak. That's just me..
I always found those old hudky leaks from the hose surface between the case or the oil pump.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Case guard was added around 1997-1998 on the 394s, prior to that there are no bosses to mount to. Great thread Josh

Thanks for tossing that out there. Both of my 394s have no provisions for mounting the guard.

 

[XP_Slinger]

A little advice: use a little of 1184 when install the oil line to prevent future oil leak. That's just me..
I always found those old hudky leaks from the hose surface between the case or the oil pump.

I guess I’ve been lucky because I haven’t experienced that problem. But that’s a good fix for it provided a plugged vent isn’t the issue. Thanks for sharing

 

[David Young]

Nice job Josh thank you for the build thread. I know they are a challenge to photograph and narrate.

also for the record. you are doing it wrong

everything wrong,wrong, wrong

 

[XP_Slinger]

Ignition and flywheel assembly.

First install the air injection duct.



Next install flywheel then the coil with 2 fasteners and set the gap to .012. Route kill wire and spark plug wire as shown.



Shaved the key for a timing advance.



Coil took some damage when this saw got wheel chocked. OCD is telling me to replace it, but since the saw ran fine with it I’m going to run it til it fails. If this were a saw for someone else I would recommend replacement.



Last thing was some shrink wrap on the plug lead to protect some areas that are chaffing. Again, I wouldn’t bandaid this if it were for anyone other than myself.

 

[Fruecrue]

Treenineyfeckinfo’!

 

[XP_Slinger]

Nice job Josh thank you for the build thread. I know they are a challenge to photograph and narrate.

also for the record. you are doing it wrong

everything wrong,wrong, wrong

You caught me David, I don’t even know who these pictures belong to

 

[XP_Slinger]

Route the kill wire as shown and connect to the kill switch.





Install the carb jet boot.



Then the flywheel shroud.



Then lastly the recoil housing.



My saw is a super rare 39P model

 

[p61 western]

Great thread you did. I need to get a 394 one of these days.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Stripped muffler bolts...damn hooskie



Shiny new hardware. I like shiny stuff.



Install the muffler parts in the following order; deflector shroud, gasket then muffler. Tighten it all up.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Handle bar time.



3 fasteners on the clutch side.



2 on the bottom.



Inner bar plate installed with a single screw.

 

[bigbadbob]

Great thread, well done.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Checked the decomp clearance in the top cover hole and it was dragging enough that it wouldn’t pop out. Shaved the hole with a razor blade (giggle) for clearance.



Squish is at .032, sucks that it won’t have good compression.



Wrong! Being that a 394 is basically a 2-series saw design, it produces good compression with fat squish because of the small combustion chamber. It blew 190psi but my gage leaked a little before I could snap the pic. Right where I like my saws.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Air filter and cover installed.



I searched all over for my 37” bar. Then I remembered it’s winter and very cold so it’s got shrinkage...down to 24”. Lol!

Ready for first start up.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Running good. Fat tune, stable idle. Timing advance greatly improved throttle response.

 

[Rob Stafari]

Thanks, great thread. Lots of good tips as I get close to rebuilding mine. Might I ask what piston you used, OEM or otherwise?

 

[XP_Slinger]

And the video I’m sure everyone wants, runs strong, very happy. Apologies for the constant piss revving, I check tune a lot during first cuts. Not needed but we all have our ways...lol!

In the words of my brother @RIDE-RED 350r ....
Tree - 90 - Feckin - Fo!

Will do more cuts with a longer bar...gotta find some big wood.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Thanks, great thread. Lots of good tips as I get close to rebuilding mine. Might I ask what piston you used, OEM or otherwise?

Ask any question that comes to mind bud. Used a meteor piston kit with a new OEM wrist pin bearing.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Great thread, well done.

Thank you sir