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372xp stalls at idle?

brad ruch

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New guy here!
I’ve got a two year old xtorq that does the same thing as the OP. I’ve replaced the coil ( with an oe limited) which solved my startup muffler detonation problem. I’ve tinkered with the carb adjustments to where it sounds good. How lean is too lean on the top end? If you guys are suggesting that’s possibly the trouble. I’ve put the tach on it and tuned high side to 13,100 or so.
That's too high for a x torq.13000 max I had set mine to 12900

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Czed

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New guy here!
I’ve got a two year old xtorq that does the same thing as the OP. I’ve replaced the coil ( with an oe limited) which solved my startup muffler detonation problem. I’ve tinkered with the carb adjustments to where it sounds good. How lean is too lean on the top end? If you guys are suggesting that’s possibly the trouble. I’ve put the tach on it and tuned high side to 13,100 or so.
Welcome to the site
I've had a few i had to adjust to just shy of chain spin
After that they would idle all day.
And high side to clean out as it touches wood.
No tachy here just ma ear's
 

J. Dirt

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That's too high for a x torq.13000 max I had set mine to 12900

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That’s what I was told too! It seems to run fat at those speeds though. It starts right up idles great and runs out great as it’s tuned just dies instantly once you lift off the throttle when finishing a cut. Then one pull and fires right back up! If I move the L screw any it has no throttle response and on the high side I’d hate to lean it any more. :BangHead:
 

Czed

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That’s what I was told too! It seems to run fat at those speeds though. It starts right up idles great and runs out great as it’s tuned just dies instantly once you lift off the throttle when finishing a cut. Then one pull and fires right back up! If I move the L screw any it has no throttle response and on the high side I’d hate to lean it any more. :BangHead:
Sell it to me
 

brad ruch

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That’s what I was told too! It seems to run fat at those speeds though. It starts right up idles great and runs out great as it’s tuned just dies instantly once you lift off the throttle when finishing a cut. Then one pull and fires right back up! If I move the L screw any it has no throttle response and on the high side I’d hate to lean it any more. :BangHead:
Been there done that.i know what you mean.only way around it is to set the idle little high like maybe 3000.or cut the the divider out if the intake boot.what happens is after full throttle there's excess fuel in that intake boot and you left off the throttle it gets to rich and quits.start it up once and let it idle a minute.then with the saw sitting on the ground idling pick the handle up so the bar is pointing at the ground straight up.i bet the idle starts to go down.

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brad ruch

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Here's a couple pics with the divider cut out of the filter holder and intake boot.
473ca0abd923ed8ca029c78473be92aa.jpg
a4bbaf403b0fc5abcd07f06761bfed19.jpg
3631deb1431871c4017587b256ac54f2.jpg


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huskyboy

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The 2172 I had liked to be set right on the 13,300 limiter. No need to gut it just need to set L a 1/8 leaner. Run at least 40:1 mix.
 
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huskyboy

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Set idle at 2800-3k. Any more than that the coil starts advancing and idle gets erratic. I have a xtorq coil on a 385/390.
 

cowroy

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I know it’s been a minute since I’ve posted in this thread , but I just wanted to report back and say that cutting the baffle out of the intake fixed the issue. I did have to retune, but the saw runs perfect. Thanks for the help and I hope others will find this thread now if they try the carb upgrade. It’s definitely worth it. I can tell the saw is snappier for sure.
 

J. Dirt

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So you figure just grinding out that baffle takes care of it ?! I’m thinking maybe I’ll do mine tonight then! Did you change/rebuild your carb at all?
 

huskihl

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An xtorq is a strato saw. Meaning the transfers suck in fresh air on top of the charge, and that fresh air purges out the spent exhaust from the last cycle. If gutting the strato worked, you're now losing fresh mix out the exhaust like a normal 2 stroke. My guess is it was set too rich before. Now that some of the charge is getting blown out, it's tuned more optimally
 

huskyboy

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Wouldn’t taking the plastic divider out of the rwj do the same thing as gutting the entire intake tract but a lot less work?
 

brad ruch

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From what I've heard it's not a good idea.now mine was a xtorq.so I only had done the the filter holder and boot.which was pretty easy really.
Wouldn’t taking the plastic divider out of the rwj do the same thing as gutting the entire intake tract but a lot less work?

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J. Dirt

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Does anyone know if Husqvarna has s clue about this situation? Seems a ton of people have this trouble or something similar.
 

cowroy

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Let me clarify, this saw was originally a 371xp cylinder and all. I bought a very low hour 365sp and put my ported top end on it. Not sure what happened to that carb, but wanted to upgrade the carb when it started acting up. Ordered the complete upgrade from Spike60. I did not rebuild or change the new carb in any way cause it was brand new. After cutting that baffle out of the intake, all I had to do was retune. That was obviously the problem for me and this particular saw. I have no clue about strato saws and transfers nor how this would change how they run.
 
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