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372xp stalls at idle?

cowroy

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Hey guys, I have found a couple threads on this issue, but can’t find a definitive answer. My saw runs fine up on the high side. Revs out and four strokes perfect, but if you let off the throttle it dies immediately. Here’s a list of what I’ve done.

This is my original ported 371xp buildoff Saw from 2010.
Since then Randy cut the squish so I could do away with the base gasket. It ran good for a couple years and I robbed the carburetor off of it for customer Saw. I then upgraded it to the 372xp xtorq carb system. That’s when this trouble started. It has new;

Spark plug
Fuel line/filter/impulse line
Tank vent
Walbro Carb/intake
Ignition coil
Good pressure and vac test

I saw where people were having trouble with the Chinese carbs but this is a Japanese Walbro. Looks like some folks have bought the Tilly carb with pretty good luck but that was an old thread and that carb is only $12 dollars? Seems like it’d be hard for a good carb to be made for $12? Don’t get me wrong, if it’s what I need I’m all for it, but it just seems little cheap for a good carb. TIA fellas!
 
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p61 western

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To much fuel on the low side would be just a guess. It would be nice if it was a easy fix like that.
 

cowroy

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Yeah I’ve adjusted it ever which way I can to no avail.
 

huskihl

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Usually when they won't idle after a long cut, it's from being too rich on the high side. The added fuel wets everything excessively and it makes it too rich to idle. If it lopes up and down and dies after a long cut it's too lean on the high side.

If it's an rwj, you should be around 1.5 turns out on the L, and 2.5 on the H. That's an approximate number. Fuel, oil, ratio, and temp can affect those numbers
 

huskihl

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Dumb question, but is the idle screw touching?

Only other thing I can think of is maybe one diaphragm or the other is bad or installed wrong. Or maybe the needle is sticking
 

Bigmac

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And it starts and idles fine? If you try to restart after it dies will it idle?
 

cowroy

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Usually when they won't idle after a long cut, it's from being too rich on the high side. The added fuel wets everything excessively and it makes it too rich to idle. If it lopes up and down and dies after a long cut it's too lean on the high side.

If it's an rwj, you should be around 1.5 turns out on the L, and 2.5 on the H. That's an approximate number. Fuel, oil, ratio, and temp can affect those numbers

I will lean out the high side and try that. It does not lope up and die.

Dumb question, but is the idle screw touching?


Only other thing I can think of is maybe one diaphragm or the other is bad or installed wrong. Or maybe the needle is sticking

Yes it is.

And it starts and idles fine? If you try to restart after it dies will it idle?

It will start and high idle because of the throttle lock and act normal until it warms up and then if you let off WOT, it dies. When you start it back it acts like it flooding and bogs and you have to feather the throttle just right to keep it from bogging and dying. It may take several seconds of this’s bogging and then it will just pickup and run out normal. As long as you hold it past half throttle it stays okay.
 

Redfin

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^ Yep, if you cant tune it out I would be looking at your pop off pressure.
 

huskihl

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I will lean out the high side and try that. It does not lope up and die.



Yes it is.



It will start and high idle because of the throttle lock and act normal until it warms up and then if you let off WOT, it dies. When you start it back it acts like it flooding and bogs and you have to feather the throttle just right to keep it from bogging and dying. It may take several seconds of this’s bogging and then it will just pickup and run out normal. As long as you hold it past half throttle it stays okay.
If you have to feather it, it's lean on the L circuit. If you have to hold it wide open to get it to clear up, it's rich
 

Bigmac

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I would look at the needle and seat and pop off pressure like the guys have said, and it needs to hold and idle and warm up at idle before you try and tune the h setting, you shouldn’t need to use the high idle to warm it up, and like mentioned before, check that the idle screw is touching, how many turns out are you on both screws?
 

brad ruch

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If you put the xtorq intake and carb on a oe 372 that's gonna work to well.if the saw is a xtorq I went through this same issue.but mine was a xtorq.i ended up replacing the throttle cable and I gutted the intake.took the the rubber divider out of the intake boot and that solved the issue.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

J. Dirt

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New guy here!
I’ve got a two year old xtorq that does the same thing as the OP. I’ve replaced the coil ( with an oe limited) which solved my startup muffler detonation problem. I’ve tinkered with the carb adjustments to where it sounds good. How lean is too lean on the top end? If you guys are suggesting that’s possibly the trouble. I’ve put the tach on it and tuned high side to 13,100 or so.
 

p61 western

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New guy here!
I’ve got a two year old xtorq that does the same thing as the OP. I’ve replaced the coil ( with an oe limited) which solved my startup muffler detonation problem. I’ve tinkered with the carb adjustments to where it sounds good. How lean is too lean on the top end? If you guys are suggesting that’s possibly the trouble. I’ve put the tach on it and tuned high side to 13,100 or so.
Welcome to OPE Joe. How have you been doing?
 

J. Dirt

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Busy as all get out!!! I did manage to pickup a 355t though beginning of the week! :aaaaa:
 
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