High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

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huskyboy

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It looks like it's a thinner wire too and the same pitch of coils. I bet if you stretched that spring out to oem length it would have about the same spring rate as oem. Because the smaller wire lowers the rate but the less coils at the same length would increase the rate.
I’m wondering if a small shim under am spring would work too. I had the oem on hand and it was a easy swap/fix that worked so I didn’t bother. The plastic they use for the AM flag on the 394 cover sucks. Mine broke almost immediately. Again swap to oem fixed it.
 

Poleman

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Was interested in putting together another one of these, so I ordered another one and checking any difference compared to the first.
Carbs still the same....Case is outstanding, the brake spring you are discussing was a long/strong one, clutch is better, impulse line was junk.....pretty much all the same other than the starter......it went waaaaay cheep. Looks like a different almost transparent type plastic. Cracked on initial start up......but.....compressions not stock. Cut the squish to .19 and took my hoof files to it...….it sounds good!!! I'll have to get it in some wood and make a video.
 

Czed

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Was interested in putting together another one of these, so I ordered another one and checking any difference compared to the first.
Carbs still the same....Case is outstanding, the brake spring you are discussing was a long/strong one, clutch is better, impulse line was junk.....pretty much all the same other than the starter......it went waaaaay cheep. Looks like a different almost transparent type plastic. Cracked on initial start up......but.....compressions not stock. Cut the squish to .19 and took my hoof files to it...….it sounds good!!! I'll have to get it in some wood and make a video.
Did you get the first one to run like you wanted?
I bought extra recoils
But the first one's haven't failed
They and the ft one's are a thick plastic
 

Poleman

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I did, very pleased with it!! Ended up with a modded Zama, and an OEM clutch and took out some compression. I had thrown a lot of different carb combinations at it that were close but taking some compression away seemed to calm it down. Now its a very good with an excellent power band. Good torque like I want and will run up high.
Ya first starter is close to OEM but not this one.
 

Leafy

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The impulse line was split near the nipple but it wasn't enough to leak. Ran good until warm again. Must be bad coil number 3. I have 1 more coil to try then I'll just buy an oem one
 

Czed

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The impulse line was split near the nipple but it wasn't enough to leak. Ran good until warm again. Must be bad coil number 3. I have 1 more coil to try then I'll just buy an oem one
You've had more trouble than anyone
With that one
I hope you get it worked out.
 

Czed

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I did, very pleased with it!! Ended up with a modded Zama, and an OEM clutch and took out some compression. I had thrown a lot of different carb combinations at it that were close but taking some compression away seemed to calm it down. Now its a very good with an excellent power band. Good torque like I want and will run up high.
Ya first starter is close to OEM but not this one.
I had one near 200 comp
That wasn't near a good a runner as one
In the 170s comp
Near the same porting and everything
 

Terry Syd

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Ran good until warm again.

I had a partially blocked fuel filter give me the fits trying to diagnose it. It seemed like I had a coil problem as the saw would begin to act up when it got warm. Swapped coils, nope.

Pulled the fuel filter out and tried to suck through it, Ah Hah! New filter and she was back in business.
 

Leafy

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It's a new filter, the good style. I think I have one of the crappy style that's new to try.
 

Leafy

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You know what I just realized, I have the stock tank vent. Will have to look into that.
 

Terry Syd

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The tank vent was the first problem I ran into on my Chinese saw. I gutted the stock tank vent on mine. It was some sort brass pill that plugged easily. I drilled a hole in it, pulled it out with a wood screw, then gutted the one-way valve and stuffed in some steel wool. Put it all back together with a couple of layers of stainless steel screen to hold it all in and some GB Weld to keep it together.

When I re-fuel I have to quickly put the cap on to keep the fuel from seeping out the vent. I loose about a 1/2 of a teaspoon each time - but it washes the vent each time I re-fill. It is a self-cleaning vent! - Works like a charm, no worry about venting problems as it is vented to the atmosphere - and you can tune a carb without having to worry about tank pressure.
 

Leafy

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I bought a 5 pack of the echo vents when I bought this kit but they came after I built the saw and I never got around to using one. I've got to do it in guessing.
 

Czed

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I bought a 5 pack of the echo vents when I bought this kit but they came after I built the saw and I never got around to using one. I've got to do it in guessing.
On long blocking cuts mine would
Cut out
It was the tank vent
Went with the echo style
No problem since.
 

Poleman

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Here's my latest Hutzl assembly. Just ran it today for the first time in wood. It has the Big Bore top end and ported. I'm using a modded Walbro carb. My bar and chain choice was a poor one.....on later cuts the bar would somewhat hang up. It was a 24 incher totally buried in big Cottonwood. I could dog in hard and it still kept pulling. Very strong saw.
Two things I noticed is the clutch doesn't engage until a higher rpm than stock. Second I noticed on this saw there was a vibration in it. I think that seems to be noticed by others I believe in these saws. My first saw doesn't seem to have it or not like this one.
I still think these a pretty good saws....at least the 36/372's anyway. I've had to replace a crank and bearings in my 660 already.......but that's another story.
 

Czed

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Here's my latest Hutzl assembly. Just ran it today for the first time in wood. It has the Big Bore top end and ported. I'm using a modded Walbro carb. My bar and chain choice was a poor one.....on later cuts the bar would somewhat hang up. It was a 24 incher totally buried in big Cottonwood. I could dog in hard and it still kept pulling. Very strong saw.
Two things I noticed is the clutch doesn't engage until a higher rpm than stock. Second I noticed on this saw there was a vibration in it. I think that seems to be noticed by others I believe in these saws. My first saw doesn't seem to have it or not like this one.
I still think these a pretty good saws....at least the 36/372's anyway. I've had to replace a crank and bearings in my 660 already.......but that's another story.
I've built five 372s using ft or whitebox ebay kits.
On china or oem saws.
All five seem to vibrate more some more than the other 52mm kits.
More than the oem or am 50mm kits.
Not uncomfortable it's just there.
Less with a 272 popup
I've been looking in to getting a 268 clone.
They were over 350.00 shipped last i checked.
Always ran the 2 series since the 80s
266 268 272 288s mostly.
Steve ported a 266 and a 268 for me
I've been running them mostly lately.20180912_175721.jpg
 

Czed

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Here's my latest Hutzl assembly. Just ran it today for the first time in wood. It has the Big Bore top end and ported. I'm using a modded Walbro carb. My bar and chain choice was a poor one.....on later cuts the bar would somewhat hang up. It was a 24 incher totally buried in big Cottonwood. I could dog in hard and it still kept pulling. Very strong saw.
Two things I noticed is the clutch doesn't engage until a higher rpm than stock. Second I noticed on this saw there was a vibration in it. I think that seems to be noticed by others I believe in these saws. My first saw doesn't seem to have it or not like this one.
I still think these a pretty good saws....at least the 36/372's anyway. I've had to replace a crank and bearings in my 660 already.......but that's another story.
From the forum's and fb clone saw page's.
There just isn't as many issue's
With the 365/372 clones
Like there is with the stihl clones bearings or circlips often had issue's.
Maybe there is more stihl clones out there than husky?
Or maybe the husky clones have been made longer and the bugs ironed out.
 

Leafy

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I think I fixed mine. I didn't fix it till after dark so I didn't get to test in wood. But what I did is I drilled a hole in the sintered bronze vent to thread a screw in to pull it out then drilled the area behind it out to 5/16th. Then I took the echo vent I bought that came with a grommet, trimmed the flange off the grommet so it would fit the hole, stuck the vent in it, covered it with Honda bond and jammed it in the hole. This is what it looks like.IMG_20181104_142939.jpg
 
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