362XP idle issues

[Daniel Engel]

Hey folks,
New guy here. Just started getting into chainsaws and repair. I've got a 1998 362XP that I can't get to idle to save my life. I've rebuilt the carb, replaced the intake boot, new fuel and impulse lines. New crank seals done by a shop, new base gasket, new NWP unlimited coil, basically a new damn saw. I can get it idle for a bit, but after a rev it shuts down. Also seems that the adjustment settings are off. Low likes to idle at around 3/4 turn, high sounds right at about half turn. I've set the adjustment screws to what the FSM recommends, and it won't run. What am I missing? Pop-off pressure maybe?

 

[Dub11]

Welcome. Someone smart should be along to help. @huskihl
@Onan18
@beaglebriar

 

[beaglebriar]

Hey folks,
New guy here. Just started getting into chainsaws and repair. I've got a 1998 362XP that I can't get to idle to save my life. I've rebuilt the carb, replaced the intake boot, new fuel and impulse lines. New crank seals done by a shop, new base gasket, new NWP unlimited coil, basically a new damn saw. I can get it idle for a bit, but after a rev it shuts down. Also seems that the adjustment settings are off. Low likes to idle at around 3/4 turn, high sounds right at about half turn. I've set the adjustment screws to what the FSM recommends, and it won't run. What am I missing? Pop-off pressure maybe?

Are you positive that the carb was put back together correctly? (diaphragms and gaskets in the proper sequence)

Aftermarket coils are mostly garbage. Kinda harsh but it's the truth..

Also you need to pressure and vacuum test that saw if you haven't already. If you need help with that we can walk you you through it. You'll need a mity vac or similar.

 

[Daniel Engel]

@beaglebriar
I put the carb together with the exploded diagram on my bench. And then pulled it apart again to double check. Also, I made sure the metering arm height was correct. I here ya on the coils, but these seemed to get pretty good reviews. I do have a Mightyvac, but have yet to make the blanking plates. Maybe I'll grab some aluminum scrap from work tomorrow and set about doing that. Can't really say why I've been putting it off. Thanks for your input!

 

[beaglebriar]

@beaglebriar
I put the carb together with the exploded diagram on my bench. And then pulled it apart again to double check. Also, I made sure the metering arm height was correct. I here ya on the coils, but these seemed to get pretty good reviews. I do have a Mightyvac, but have yet to make the blanking plates. Maybe I'll grab some aluminum scrap from work tomorrow and set about doing that. Can't really say why I've been putting it off. Thanks for your input!

A piece of inner tube between the carb/ flange and a piece between the muffler/cylinder will work fine. Do you have any other Husqvarna or Jonsered saws?

 

[beaglebriar]

Normally not an issue in these but check your tank vent.

 

[Daniel Engel]

I do not have any Jonsereds. Just a 445xtorq and a mess of Stihls. My plan with the blanking plates was to have a hose barb in one of them to accept the tube from the Mightvac, and my pressure regulator. I suppose I could use rubber and use the schrader valve on my compression tester to vac and pressurize the case.

 

[Daniel Engel]

Normally not an issue in these but check your tank vent.

I popped the vent out and soaked in in carb cleaner, re-installed and tested. That seems to be fine.

 

[beaglebriar]

I do not have any Jonsereds. Just a 445xtorq and a mess of Stihls. My plan with the blanking plates was to have a hose barb in one of them to accept the tube from the Mightvac, and my pressure regulator. I suppose I could use rubber and use the schrader valve on my compression tester to vac and pressurize the case.

Leave the spark plug in and test through the impulse line.

 

[huskihl]

What DJ said ......

 

[huskihl]

Look on eBay for an oem used 345, 350, 351, or 353 coil. They're cheap. It's a crapshoot without a known good coil

 

[Termitebuffet]

Do a pop off test on the carb make sure it ain't leaking

Sawhawgz, ruining the internet since 2012...

 

[Stump Shot]

Do a pop off test on the carb make sure it ain't leaking

Sawhawgz, ruining the internet since 2012...

/\
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This.
Manual of how to.
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\/

 

[Daniel Engel]

Leave the spark plug in and test through the impulse line.

And that's why I ask the smart people

 

[Daniel Engel]

I'll run to work in a bit for my low pressure regulator and let you know how I make out

 

[Stump Shot]

And that's why I ask the smart people

Just place the piston at top dead center when you do this. It's just the opposite when checking through the spark plug hole.

 

[backhoelover]

FYI factory setting is just a starting point

 

[Daniel Engel]

Ok, so it failed on vacuum, and only failed on pressure during a revolution of the crank. Soaped up the crank seals, and the clutch side is leaking like crazy. It burns me bc they're brand new! And yes, I did replace the little o-ring nd the crank side sleeve. Time to look into hauling it out and replacing. Pretty sure I have a set of seals here somewhere....

 

[beaglebriar]

Ok, so it failed on vacuum, and only failed on pressure during a revolution of the crank. Soaped up the crank seals, and the clutch side is leaking like crazy. It burns me bc they're brand new! And yes, I did replace the little o-ring nd the crank side sleeve. Time to look into hauling it out and replacing. Pretty sure I have a set of seals here somewhere....

Is it leaking between the seal and case or between the seal and sleeve?

If it's leaking around the sleeve your probably gonna want to replace the sleeve. Try packing it with grease and retest....it works if the sleeve isn't too worn.

If you do replace the seal smear some sealant on the outside of the new one. It'll gonin easier and it's cheap insurance against another leak.

 

[Daniel Engel]

Is it leaking between the seal and case or between the seal and sleeve?

If it's leaking around the sleeve your probably gonna want to replace the sleeve. Try packing it with grease and retest....it works if the sleeve isn't too worn.

If you do replace the seal smear some sealant on the outside of the new one. It'll gonin easier and it's cheap insurance against another leak.

@beaglebriar I tore the saw down to the crank seal, and what I found was disheartening at best. The oiler drive gear was melted and stuck in place, the o-ring between the sleeve and bearing was missing (disintegrated), and the lip of the seal was chowdered. It looks like I over-heated the damn thing. I don't remember ever running it on high idle with the brake on, so I don't know what happened. Thanks for twisting my arm into actually diagnosing the problem. Time to order more parts :/