High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

346NE vs 254XP vs 55CP...Sibling Rivalry. Results are in!!!!

XP_Slinger

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I don’t think there’s a washer needed for the updated oil pump drive. But, I havent had that off in a while, I’ll check today and post some pics.
 

XP_Slinger

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Thanks.

So here is an early IPL from 1988.
I see there is a worm gear that press fits onto the crank PTO (red), and a washer (yellow) that I don't understand the purpose of.
13605f52b56d9bd8bb7760c21f759732.jpg


Here is an IPL from a late 1996 model, it shows the worm gear on the crank is swapped to attach to the clutch drum (I think) (yellow). I believe this part is plastic.

40fe139b9237e5e9d74413a4a96d215d.jpg


What I don't understand is
1) what is this new washer you speak of?
2) the clutch drum doesn't have a part number, I just see one for the whole assembly.
No additional washer under the worm gear, shoulder on the crank keeps it from hitting the seal. I don’t think the gear goes deep enough to contact the seal either. This is my 262, same oil pump and crank as the 254.
1AECCAB4-7578-450A-8D56-105899880250.jpeg

Drum part#
E260DD34-6EC3-40B9-8146-6706E48EB5AF.jpeg
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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CJ Brown

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No additional washer under the worm gear, shoulder on the crank keeps it from hitting the seal. I don’t think the gear goes deep enough to contact the seal either. This is my 262, same oil pump and crank as the 254.
View attachment 156507

Drum part#
View attachment 156508
I don't think that drum will work on the early saws with the pressed on oil pump drive gear. The proper drum does not have the 4 drive tabs that engage the newer plastic oil pump gear. The washer on the older saws prevents the drive spur and drum from walking into the face of the oil pump.
 

PA Dan

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I don't think that drum will work on the early saws with the pressed on oil pump drive gear. The proper drum does not have the 4 drive tabs that engage the newer plastic oil pump gear. The washer on the older saws prevents the drive spur and drum from walking into the face of the oil pump.
You are correct Chris! I just swapped over my 262's to the newer drive and drum.
 

CJ Brown

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You are correct Chris! I just swapped over my 262's to the newer drive and drum.
Quick question for you Dan: when you swapped, did you have to change or modify your oil pump, or was it as simple as removing the brass gear and using the plastic gear with the proper drum?

Hope you and your family had a very Merry Christmas!
 

PA Dan

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Quick question for you Dan: when you swapped, did you have to change or modify your oil pump, or was it as simple as removing the brass gear and using the plastic gear with the proper drum?

Hope you and your family had a very Merry Christmas!
Thanks Chris we had a great time. Hope your family did also!

I split the case and that pulled the brass worm gear off. All you need after that is the plastic worm gear and the correct drum.
 

XP_Slinger

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I don't think that drum will work on the early saws with the pressed on oil pump drive gear. The proper drum does not have the 4 drive tabs that engage the newer plastic oil pump gear. The washer on the older saws prevents the drive spur and drum from walking into the face of the oil pump.
No it won’t work on the early design. Was showing Derf what was needed to change from old to new design.
 

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Thanks Chris we had a great time. Hope your family did also!

I split the case and that pulled the brass worm gear off. All you need after that is the plastic worm gear and the correct drum.
A puller can be easily made out of hardware store pipe, a union and a bolt. No need to split the case to remove the brass drive gear. I’d imagine it wouldn’t need much heat to get it off that way either, it’s not an extremely tight fit on the crank.
 

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A puller can be easily made out of hardware store pipe, a union and a bolt. No need to split the case to remove the brass drive gear. I’d imagine it wouldn’t take much heat to get it off either, it’s not an extremely tight fit on the crank.
You are also correct my friend. I was doing a full rebuild so I asked @Onan18 if the puller would remove the worm gear when I split the case. He said yes so I quit worrying and split the case!
 

Tor R

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No additional washer under the worm gear, shoulder on the crank keeps it from hitting the seal. I don’t think the gear goes deep enough to contact the seal either. This is my 262, same oil pump and crank as the 254.
View attachment 156507

Drum part#
View attachment 156508
None of the worm gears will hit the seal, the crank has a worm gear stoppage.

Just swaps over, same oil pump.
as long as you have the newer pump who arrived in around 1990. They used the old oil pump a tad longer on 254 vs 262.
This picture is for 242 oil pumps, but the same difference is seen on 254/262 also (they're just bigger):
oil pumps - 1.jpg
 

Tor R

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Does converting to air injection necessitate splitting the case, removing the crank, and changing the case half to one with bosses to mount the air-injection deflector?

Did you notice any improvement from the non air injection style case?
not really, but it depend on which 254 you got.
There is more work to be done if you're working with a 254 from the 86-89 years.
Husqvarna started to prepare their cases for air injection in 1989, but they did not threathed the case for the two air injection screws. Those two screws use the same holes as the crankcase bolts use.
 

Tor R

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I sanded the squish band a tad, put in a tad thinner gasket vs oem gasket, new oem slug, my 2001 version has around 195 psi in compression.
_DSC2297.jpg

This one is a 1987 version, thin ring piston, squish is 0,010" without head gasket, it's some time since I did this one so I can't remember if she got a head gasket on 0,030" or 0,025", but the compression is this (I'll think she would reached 220-230 psi if she had had the same setup as I did with the 2001):
_DSC2186.jpg

And here is the combustion chamber to those "golden jugs" from the 86-87 era:
_DSC2147.jpg

Ummm, I got some projects myself...
_DSC2882.jpg

They also had a few coil versions with a tad better ignition timings:
_DSC5013.jpg
 

XP_Slinger

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None of the worm gears will hit the seal, the crank has a worm gear stoppage.

as long as you have the newer pump who arrived in around 1990. They used the old oil pump a tad longer on 254 vs 262.
This picture is for 242 oil pumps, but the same difference is seen on 254/262 also (they're just bigger):
View attachment 156599
Excellent info Tor! Never dawned on me to look at the opening in the pump. Didn’t know there was a difference between early and late models.
 

Derf

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Thanks Tor, great info!

So this 254SE I have is an 87, in good shape and all original. it has the "golden jug" I suppose, but I don't know why it is better aside from no decomp, with a thin ring piston. I don't know which ignition module is better and would like more info about those.
It does not have the holes to adapt the air injection plastic pieces behind the flywheel. It has the old style flywheel cover with small sticker label. It also has the old style plastic clutch cover before switching over to metal clutch cover. And it has the old style oil pump that oils whenever the saw is running.
I would like to upgrade the oil pump to a clutch driven version, so I suppose I should keep my eye out now for a newer style pump. Unless I can just open the hole in the old style pump to be larger?
I would also like to explore upgrading the ignition module if later versions are better, and adding air injection if I can get a case half in good shape for a fair price.
 
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