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346NE vs 254XP vs 55CP...Sibling Rivalry. Results are in!!!!

Discussion in 'Chainsaws' started by XP_Slinger, Feb 27, 2018.

  1. XP_Slinger

    XP_Slinger I like saws...sometimes

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    I don’t think there’s a washer needed for the updated oil pump drive. But, I havent had that off in a while, I’ll check today and post some pics.
     
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  2. CJ Brown

    CJ Brown I learned it from a hockey card...

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  3. XP_Slinger

    XP_Slinger I like saws...sometimes

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    No additional washer under the worm gear, shoulder on the crank keeps it from hitting the seal. I don’t think the gear goes deep enough to contact the seal either. This is my 262, same oil pump and crank as the 254.
    1AECCAB4-7578-450A-8D56-105899880250.jpeg

    Drum part#
    E260DD34-6EC3-40B9-8146-6706E48EB5AF.jpeg
     
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  4. RIDE-RED 350r

    RIDE-RED 350r Here For The Long Haul!

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    I saw that this morning...already bought a Meteor for mine that's about to go under the knife.

    How are the Cross Pistons?? I've seen a few pics of their cylinders and to my eye the ports left alot to be desired
     
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  5. CJ Brown

    CJ Brown I learned it from a hockey card...

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    Always have bought Meteor so no idea about Cross quality. For $4 you can buy it for the Caber ring and use the piston for testing purposes when porting.
     
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  6. CJ Brown

    CJ Brown I learned it from a hockey card...

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    I don't think that drum will work on the early saws with the pressed on oil pump drive gear. The proper drum does not have the 4 drive tabs that engage the newer plastic oil pump gear. The washer on the older saws prevents the drive spur and drum from walking into the face of the oil pump.
     
  7. PA Dan

    PA Dan Here For The Long Haul!

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    You are correct Chris! I just swapped over my 262's to the newer drive and drum.
     
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  8. CJ Brown

    CJ Brown I learned it from a hockey card...

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    Quick question for you Dan: when you swapped, did you have to change or modify your oil pump, or was it as simple as removing the brass gear and using the plastic gear with the proper drum?

    Hope you and your family had a very Merry Christmas!
     
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  9. dustinwilt68

    dustinwilt68 Stihls are for selling, huskies do the work

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    Just swaps over, same oil pump.
     
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  10. PA Dan

    PA Dan Here For The Long Haul!

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    Thanks Chris we had a great time. Hope your family did also!

    I split the case and that pulled the brass worm gear off. All you need after that is the plastic worm gear and the correct drum.
     
  11. XP_Slinger

    XP_Slinger I like saws...sometimes

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    No it won’t work on the early design. Was showing Derf what was needed to change from old to new design.
     
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  12. XP_Slinger

    XP_Slinger I like saws...sometimes

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    A puller can be easily made out of hardware store pipe, a union and a bolt. No need to split the case to remove the brass drive gear. I’d imagine it wouldn’t need much heat to get it off that way either, it’s not an extremely tight fit on the crank.
     
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  13. CJ Brown

    CJ Brown I learned it from a hockey card...

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    OIC - carry on :thumbsup:
     
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  14. PA Dan

    PA Dan Here For The Long Haul!

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    You are also correct my friend. I was doing a full rebuild so I asked @Onan18 if the puller would remove the worm gear when I split the case. He said yes so I quit worrying and split the case!
     
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  15. Tor R

    Tor R Regular member

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    None of the worm gears will hit the seal, the crank has a worm gear stoppage.

    as long as you have the newer pump who arrived in around 1990. They used the old oil pump a tad longer on 254 vs 262.
    This picture is for 242 oil pumps, but the same difference is seen on 254/262 also (they're just bigger):
    oil pumps - 1.jpg
     
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  16. Tor R

    Tor R Regular member

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    not really, but it depend on which 254 you got.
    There is more work to be done if you're working with a 254 from the 86-89 years.
    Husqvarna started to prepare their cases for air injection in 1989, but they did not threathed the case for the two air injection screws. Those two screws use the same holes as the crankcase bolts use.
     
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  17. Tor R

    Tor R Regular member

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    I sanded the squish band a tad, put in a tad thinner gasket vs oem gasket, new oem slug, my 2001 version has around 195 psi in compression.
    _DSC2297.jpg

    This one is a 1987 version, thin ring piston, squish is 0,010" without head gasket, it's some time since I did this one so I can't remember if she got a head gasket on 0,030" or 0,025", but the compression is this (I'll think she would reached 220-230 psi if she had had the same setup as I did with the 2001):
    _DSC2186.jpg

    And here is the combustion chamber to those "golden jugs" from the 86-87 era:
    _DSC2147.jpg

    Ummm, I got some projects myself...
    _DSC2882.jpg

    They also had a few coil versions with a tad better ignition timings:
    _DSC5013.jpg
     
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  18. XP_Slinger

    XP_Slinger I like saws...sometimes

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    Excellent info Tor! Never dawned on me to look at the opening in the pump. Didn’t know there was a difference between early and late models.
     
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  19. CJ Brown

    CJ Brown I learned it from a hockey card...

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    I had read something somewhere about the different pumps, and that's why I asked Dan about his experience. Thanks @Tor R for refreshing my memory. And nice 254 pics!
     
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  20. Derf

    Derf Pinnacle OPE Member

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    Thanks Tor, great info!

    So this 254SE I have is an 87, in good shape and all original. it has the "golden jug" I suppose, but I don't know why it is better aside from no decomp, with a thin ring piston. I don't know which ignition module is better and would like more info about those.
    It does not have the holes to adapt the air injection plastic pieces behind the flywheel. It has the old style flywheel cover with small sticker label. It also has the old style plastic clutch cover before switching over to metal clutch cover. And it has the old style oil pump that oils whenever the saw is running.
    I would like to upgrade the oil pump to a clutch driven version, so I suppose I should keep my eye out now for a newer style pump. Unless I can just open the hole in the old style pump to be larger?
    I would also like to explore upgrading the ignition module if later versions are better, and adding air injection if I can get a case half in good shape for a fair price.
     
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