Farmchuck
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I have a 262 I bought new somewhere around 1990 or 91. It’s stock but it’s a great runnin saw.
.325 Husqvarna X-Cut vs. Oregon Speedcut?
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AuerX
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Set up to cut some mulberry next week sometime, time permitting. Hopefully a nice combo.
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So far so good in some small but fairly dense Mulberry. Next week some Ash, ranging from 3' to 10".
RI Chevy
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I have some of the new Hooskie C83 chain in 3/8 full chisel. It is really fast.
I am not a huge fan of ,325 semi chisel. I was hoping they would have this chain in full chisel by now.
Stihl is coming out with their new chain shortly.
Good time to be into chainsaws!!! lol
Not sure what all this narrow kerf stuff is all about...
I am not a huge fan of ,325 semi chisel. I was hoping they would have this chain in full chisel by now.
Stihl is coming out with their new chain shortly.
Good time to be into chainsaws!!! lol
Not sure what all this narrow kerf stuff is all about...
Philbert
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Takes a smaller bite (leaving a narrower kerf). Less load on the saw powerhead makes it feel more powerful. Husqvarna uses it on a number of saws.
Some of the narrower guide bars are more flexible, which some people do not like. The Oregon bars are bonded, instead of spot welded, which makes them stiffer:
https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...f-chain-and-speedcut-guide-bars.285694/page-8
Philbert
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The .325 semi X-Cut cuts very nicely with little effort, turns the 18" 340 setup to a very nimble and fast cleanup saw.
Next week, some bigger stuff. I suspect it will do ok considering how totally effortless it is in the smaller stuff...
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Those rakers don't seem to slow things down much.
Should help keep the cut clean too when in dirty wood.
Should help keep the cut clean too when in dirty wood.
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What possibly could the weight difference amount to...scratching my noggin about this one.
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I’d just be curious as to how much, literally in gram weight, would just the extra raker tips only add up to...I’m sure it ain’t much. But I do get yer point...they gotta weigh something. Even a empty Dixie cup weighs something...
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Those are reduced kickback bumpers on the drive links; not 'rakers' (depth gauges). Most people like them much better than the larger tie strap bumpers.
Husqvarna may make a 'PRO' version without them (I don't know).
Philbert
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The X-Cut seems to have both speed and safety, and I don't mind either.
Pretty happy with it, But time will tell more of course.
Also...my notoriously poor oiling 340 seems to be lubing away fine with this new "X" series B&C.
Bar never felt too hot and while it still is somewhat miserly with oil it certainly seems sufficient.
Husqvarna made a point about this:
"Small, arrow-shaped channels in the links transport oil to the X-Cut® chain during operation, guaranteeing superior lubrication. The result is less wear and tear on your Husqvarna chainsaw."
https://www.husqvarna.com/us/forest/basics/introducing-husqvarna-x-cut-chainsaw-chain/
Pretty happy with it, But time will tell more of course.
Also...my notoriously poor oiling 340 seems to be lubing away fine with this new "X" series B&C.
Bar never felt too hot and while it still is somewhat miserly with oil it certainly seems sufficient.
Husqvarna made a point about this:
"Small, arrow-shaped channels in the links transport oil to the X-Cut® chain during operation, guaranteeing superior lubrication. The result is less wear and tear on your Husqvarna chainsaw."
https://www.husqvarna.com/us/forest/basics/introducing-husqvarna-x-cut-chainsaw-chain/
jakethesnake
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They’re not much of a bother really. Just the very last bit of tooth you might have to lower them too. I got three 32” shark fin stihl. If they really bug me I’ll nip em I guess
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Some chains do have dual depth gauges ('rakers'). This happens to be the dressing link from a PowerSharp chain, along with a low kickback bumper - just a clear photo that illustrates it well. But I have some old Sabre (?) chain with conventional cutters and dual depth gauges. Some fire rescue chains also use them.
Philbert
