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288xp milling

Discussion in 'Milling' started by WoodsliverDan, Aug 6, 2018.

  1. WoodsliverDan

    WoodsliverDan Mechanical Beaver Builder

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    I have a 288xp I would like to use for milling. My current dilemma is rather I should just use 36" bar with it, which won't max out my 36" Alaskan. Or if the saw would be able to run a 42" bar which would allow me to use the full 36" of mill. I am worried I will be asking too much of the saw.. I have a tip oiler so oil issue my concerns. Thanks.
     
  2. Lightning Performance

    Lightning Performance Pinnacle OPE Member

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    Don't know.

    Still waiting on left coast to get 42" lp bars and 48" back in stock :(
     
  3. WoodsliverDan

    WoodsliverDan Mechanical Beaver Builder

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    LP? Low profile?
     
  4. Lightning Performance

    Lightning Performance Pinnacle OPE Member

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    Yup
     
  5. srcarr52

    srcarr52 We can't stop here, th1s is bat country!

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    I used LP on a 36" and I broke it.
     
  6. Lightning Performance

    Lightning Performance Pinnacle OPE Member

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    Your saws make too much power :rolleyes:
    Besides, I'm not cutting big dead Oak like you probably were :oops:
    Picco square FTW
     
  7. WoodsliverDan

    WoodsliverDan Mechanical Beaver Builder

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    I've heard of a low of low profile chains breaking when used for milling. Sounds like a waste of money.
     
  8. Lightning Performance

    Lightning Performance Pinnacle OPE Member

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    Everyone I hear of breaking LP was not using Stihl chain. Did I hear wrong?

    We shall see. I can only run it on a 28" right now. The bar needs some clean up and a proper built 050 tip on a worn down nose sprocket. Keeping oil on the bar is a problem. Best can be done till the GB comes back around. Considered trying it on a 36"ES WN. It would need and add on oil supply on my 3003 mount.
     
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  9. srcarr52

    srcarr52 We can't stop here, th1s is bat country!

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    You're correct there, it was carlton.

    I know Logosol is using Stihl LP RM chain, I was going to try some but never had a chance.

    Yes, I was cutting 31" of wet red oak with a ported 395 running an 8 pin. It was hauling (for chainsaw milling) until the third cut when I snapped the chain.

    I had an external drip oilier on the tip, running a 36" Oregon 50 gauge bar, filed tip to spear the 3/8 LP correctly, .404x8 rim cut down to fit the LP chain and the bar has been belt sanded to make it thinner for the narrow kerf of the LP chain.
     
  10. Lightning Performance

    Lightning Performance Pinnacle OPE Member

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    It is a lot of work to get the bar right. Don't forget to tell them you only get to use about two thirds of the chain cutter.

    Edit:
    Steam might have helped break that chain. Fast chain makes heat in wet wood. It gets me on hot days. Bites down on the used up chains. Big live fresh cut maple and willow stumps are the worst!
     
  11. WoodsliverDan

    WoodsliverDan Mechanical Beaver Builder

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    Hmm, interesting. Even though slightly off topic. Good info, none the less.
     
  12. JB-PlantHeirloom

    JB-PlantHeirloom OPE Member

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    FWIW: I run the low profile ripping chain from Baileys 3/8 x .050 32" on a Husqvarna 385 for milling and have had no problems, except it can be slow when in oak. I have run the same setup ripping firewood with my 288, and have had no problems.

    The chain runs much smoother and most importantly cooler then full profile and/or regular full comp chain, as I have tried all three. I have not tried chisel /square chain.
     
  13. Wolverine

    Wolverine Do you even burn wood bro?

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    Do tail. You mean noodling?
     
  14. JB-PlantHeirloom

    JB-PlantHeirloom OPE Member

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    After googling the term, yes, that is another way of describing it.
     
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