High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

288xp, 385xp or 390xp??

RIDE-RED 350r

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OK guys, I'm in the early stages of deciding on my next builder project and am toying with the idea of offering my good running 359 to trade for said builder. But I haven't really fully decided on that idea yet and that isn't the subject I want to discuss...

So a 288 builder is already very much in the running, but I'm also considering a 385 or 390 and those are the two I want to hear some discussion on.

I know the 385 and 390 share 99% of their parts and a 390 is just a 1mm larger bore on the same bottom end and chassis. Having said that, I would like to know any pros and cons of one over the other. What would YOU build given a choice between the two and why. More displacement and powa' isn't necessarily a major factor for me as I already have a kick-ass 394 done up by Scarr Engineering and myself. If I want alot of power, the Tree-90-Feckin-Fo comes out to play. I know there is a nice 385 in the classifieds and believe me I have given it alot of consideration, but I kinda want to start with something a little cheaper, something I might trade my running 359 straight up for, and I fully realize and expect an even trade would fetch only a 385/90 with a toasted top end and that is fine.



I know I'm gonna get alot of "Hooray 288" posts! And you know, go ahead and post about that too, 288 vs 390 I'm sure would be interesting to hear some feedback on. Pretty sure there is a 288 vs 390 thread already here.... On paper, the 390 really seems to be a (dare I say) better performer.

Little brother already has a fine 288 and part of me wants to do a 385/90 just to have something "different" between us.

Let's hear it fellas!
 
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huskyboy

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Supposedly 385 has better port timing to begin with but I’m not so sure about how much difference it makes how they run. The displacement advantage of the 390 might give it the edge. I haven’t run any 390’s yet so can’t comment on them but my 385 is a strong saw. I’d take whatever one I could get for cheaper.
 
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RIDE-RED 350r

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It does sound like you are getting more RPM with the 385, but I would tend to expect that, both ported or not. Are you running the same size rim on both?? Despite the apparent higher RPM on the 85, the 95 does seem to complete the cut faster. The duration of both vids indicates that, especially when you blipped the throttle on the 395 to finish the last little hang nail on the cut and the 395 vid was still shorter. Then again the 385 vid starts and you don't get right into the cut immediately. I think it comes out on the wash which makes me think the 395 is in fact a little faster through the cut.

Cool vids, thanks for sharing. :)
 

huskyboy

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It does sound like you are getting more RPM with the 385, but I would tend to expect that, both ported or not. Are you running the same size rim on both?? Despite the apparent higher RPM on the 85, the 95 does seem to complete the cut faster. The duration of both vids indicates that, especially when you blipped the throttle on the 395 to finish the last little hang nail on the cut and the 395 vid was still shorter. Then again the 385 vid starts and you don't get right into the cut immediately. I think it comes out on the wash

Cool vids, thanks for sharing. :)
7 pin rims on both, semi chisel skip on 385 and full chisel skip on 395. The chain was setup a bit more aggressive on 385. 395 had new off the roll chain and a tad fat.
 
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RIDE-RED 350r

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Sounds about right to me and the chains DO make a difference.. "What's in a chain" right?? @afleetcommand :D :D

My Scarr/Braap-Shack 394 is running an 8-pin and I stuffed a 36" bar endways into some large hard maple (sugar maple) making noodles... Pulled it like a boss! And that was before I realized I had a hang-up in my throttle cable that was preventing me from easily getting to true full throttle.. It was stopping me about 1/8 short!
 

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I've had a fully rebuilt 385 alongside a fully rebuilt 390 (both stock) and with the same bar and chain- I couldn't really tell the difference between the two. I had a Mooberized 385 a while back and it blew the doors off a stock 390 and a stock 395 in 24" wood, which isn't really saying much. I think if I had to start a build I would do a 385 and go for the full meal deal along with a black ignition, and the Walbro carb.
 

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Sounds about right to me and the chains DO make a difference.. "What's in a chain" right?? @afleetcommand :D :D
I agree completely. It’s not a fair comparison without same bars and chains and reasonably similar tunes. I think I had 385 around 14k and 395 around 12.5-13k ish.
 

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Between the 385 and 390 I would pick the 385 all day every day. The timing numbers and port shapes were almost perfect from the factory because it was designed from day one to be what it was. The 390 was more of an afterthought "We have to get in the 90cc class to compete with the MS 660" so it is essentially a factory big bore and they had to compromise on the port shapes to make room for the larger piston. Also, while 1mm does not sound like much, the 390 piston is MUCH HEAVIER than the 385 piston. As a result the 390 is known for killing cranks, in as little as one year in commercial duty even with decent care and good oil.









Now a 288 on the other hand.......... :D
 

huskyboy

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Between the 385 and 390 I would pick the 385 all day every day. The timing numbers and port shapes were almost perfect from the factory because it was designed from day one to be what it was. The 390 was more of an afterthought "We have to get in the 90cc class to compete with the MS 660" so it is essentially a factory big bore and they had to compromise on the port shapes to make room for the larger piston. Also, while 1mm does not sound like much, the 390 piston is MUCH HEAVIER than the 385 piston. As a result the 390 is known for killing cranks, in as little as one year in commercial duty even with decent care and good oil.
Didn’t the earliest 385’s have issues with the bearings or something?
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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Now that IS interesting Joe. So they tried the same trick they were successful at with the 288 and 394 bottom-end relationship (same crank) with the 385 and 390 and it didn't work out so well. Very good post and really sways me toward a 385. Cylinder design seems like a bonus.
 

Lightning Performance

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I know nothing basically about running either saw. Here is my take. The smaller jug is obviously cheaper and more plentiful plus the piston and the internals consider that on your top end price. It should have better cooling. Consider the saw with larger transfer ports if you're going to port the jug.

How many hotrod parts and/or bolt-ons are available?
Cost? Are the am parts any good to use?
 

Lightning Performance

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I know nothing basically about running either saw. Here is my take. The smaller jug is obviously cheaper and more plentiful plus the piston and the internals consider that on your top end price. It should have better cooling. Consider the saw with larger transfer ports if you're going to port the jug.

How many hotrod parts and/or bolt-ons are available?
Cost? Are the am parts any good to use?
Wow all those posts while I was typing
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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Ooof... just looked up the OEM 385xp cyl kit, they are still proud of that one... $250 from Baileys. Now I've gotten pretty good at cleaning transfer from cylinders using a combination of muriatic acid and sanding by hand... 385 spec Metoer piston is 50 bucks. That, I can deal with.
 

Cut4fun

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Between the 385 and 390 I would pick the 385 all day every day. The timing numbers and port shapes were almost perfect from the factory because it was designed from day one to be what it was. The 390 was more of an afterthought "We have to get in the 90cc class to compete with the MS 660" so it is essentially a factory big bore and they had to compromise on the port shapes to make room for the larger piston. Also, while 1mm does not sound like much, the 390 piston is MUCH HEAVIER than the 385 piston. As a result the 390 is known for killing cranks, in as little as one year in commercial duty even with decent care and good oil.









Now a 288 on the other hand.......... :D

Saving that info ;)
 

Marshy

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Between the 385 and 390 I would pick the 385 all day every day. The timing numbers and port shapes were almost perfect from the factory because it was designed from day one to be what it was. The 390 was more of an afterthought "We have to get in the 90cc class to compete with the MS 660" so it is essentially a factory big bore and they had to compromise on the port shapes to make room for the larger piston. Also, while 1mm does not sound like much, the 390 piston is MUCH HEAVIER than the 385 piston. As a result the 390 is known for killing cranks, in as little as one year in commercial duty even with decent care and good oil.









Now a 288 on the other hand.......... :D
I thought tyre 390 have the same crank as a 395, is that wrong?
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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I thought tyre 390 have the same crank as a 395, is that wrong?

Yes, that is incorrect. 288, 394 and 395 have 1mm more stroke. Seems like early 288 cranks were different, but later 288 and 394 cranks are drop in interchangeable if I recall correctly. If I am wrong on that, someone correct me and I will edit this post so as not to cause confusion.
 
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