2159 new AM cyl 100psi

[davidwyby]

Howdy, I’m the new guy. Met Marshy on the book face and he pushed me to post up. Been talking to @Chainsaw Jim a bit on YouTube too. Looks like he might be the closest builder to me here in SoCal.

Been away from sawing for a few years, bug bit again. Got a used 2159 that was rebuilt with an as-yet unidentified AM P&C and it can’t hardly pull the 3/8” forester chain on it. Maybe not broken in yet? Maybe vac leak? Looks good in the exh port. Still has plastic intake clamp, need to remedy that and rig up a setup to pressure and vac test. Have a 49SP I’m pretty sure has a crank seal leak I need to do next...

Pretty sure the 59 hasn’t had seals put in it so considering a (used?) stuffer crank and new top end on the forum’s recommendation. (Can that be done without splitting?)

Have machine shop, maybe go 70cc??? I think I want to go into it a little bit and see what’s up and then maybe send it off. I’d kinda like to get it right and try that before going ported but I reckon it would be more efficient, less time and $ to just send it off and make it snotty from the get go.

Also seems to have an issue with the throttle. Trigger clicks and feels like it slips in the handle, doesn’t push the rod far enough to open the carb all the way...but seems to open all the way with saw running...? Hard to tell...

I’m pretty isolated in the desert and only have my old 2050 and 395 to go off of for reference. Attitude of the shops I find is if it runs, it runs. I’d like to have someone with a test log that knows what they’re doing and what a given saw should cut like...I wanted a pro saw to go between them and got the 2159 for a good deal, then wished I’d gone with the “20cc rule” and gotten 70cc... but if I can get this one to run good for at least smaller stuff, I can man up and swing the 32” 395 for the bigger stuff, it’s fun if a workout. Did two trees a little over 20” with it yesterday. I mostly remove dead trees around town for fun/cleanup/firewood.

This should probably be another post...thinking about a 24” for the 395...and need to order some chains for my saws. Was gonna go with madsen’s, they seem cool and I think they have a twofer deal on loops. That’s unless someone here has a recommendation. Bailey’s is closer but have more of a warm fuzzy with madsen.

All input and advice welcome, thanks!

 

[Dolmar Junkie]

Howdy, I’m the new guy. Met Marshy on the book face and he pushed me to post up. Been talking to @Chainsaw Jim a bit on YouTube too. Looks like he might be the closest builder to me here in SoCal.

Been away from sawing for a few years, bug bit again. Got a used 2159 that was rebuilt with an as-yet unidentified AM P&C and it can’t hardly pull the 3/8” forester chain on it. Maybe not broken in yet? Maybe vac leak? Looks good in the exh port. Still has plastic intake clamp, need to remedy that and rig up a setup to pressure and vac test. Have a 49SP I’m pretty sure has a crank seal leak I need to do next...

Pretty sure the 59 hasn’t had seals put in it so considering a (used?) stuffer crank and new top end on the forum’s recommendation. (Can that be done without splitting?)

Have machine shop, maybe go 70cc??? I think I want to go into it a little bit and see what’s up and then maybe send it off. I’d kinda like to get it right and try that before going ported but I reckon it would be more efficient, less time and $ to just send it off and make it snotty from the get go.

Also seems to have an issue with the throttle. Trigger clicks and feels like it slips in the handle, doesn’t push the rod far enough to open the carb all the way...but seems to open all the way with saw running...? Hard to tell...

I’m pretty isolated in the desert and only have my old 2050 and 395 to go off of for reference. Attitude of the shops I find is if it runs, it runs. I’d like to have someone with a test log that knows what they’re doing and what a given saw should cut like...I wanted a pro saw to go between them and got the 2159 for a good deal, then wished I’d gone with the “20cc rule” and gotten 70cc... but if I can get this one to run good for at least smaller stuff, I can man up and swing the 32” 395 for the bigger stuff, it’s fun if a workout. Did two trees a little over 20” with it yesterday. I mostly remove dead trees around town for fun/cleanup/firewood.

This should probably be another post...thinking about a 24” for the 395...and need to order some chains for my saws. Was gonna go with madsen’s, they seem cool and I think they have a twofer deal on loops. That’s unless someone here has a recommendation. Bailey’s is closer but have more of a warm fuzzy with madsen.

All input and advice welcome, thanks!

Welcome to OPE David, you sound like you already have an established problem with chainsaws, albeit renewed.
I think you will fit in fine around here. Only problem I see is your obvious lack of Dolmars, but that can easily be remedied. Matt...

 

[davidwyby]

I just saw a 7900 for sale semi local for $295 but missed it, luckily. Saws cost is starting to add up, haha.

Welcome to OPE David, you sound like you already have an established problem with chainsaws, albeit renewed.
I think you will fit in fine around here. Only problem I see is your obvious lack of Dolmars, but that can easily be remedied. Matt...

 

[davidwyby]

Some vids

Guys think I should pressure/vac test first or yank P&C?

 

[davidwyby]

Pics!

 

[davidwyby]

I went to cut this tree down and had to quit and get the 395 cuz it was embarasssing how much it was stalling. Partially me being rusty but I was really having to light feed it. The tree was dense dry hardwood in the saw’s defense.

 

[davidwyby]

Also tried a dab of oil in the combustion chamber. Compression went over 200 before I quit. I’m told that isn’t a very useful test on a saw but don’t understand why. Seem to indicate poor ring seal to me, although I know my squish is twice what it should be.

 

[old guy]

That is no comp at all, I'm surprised it even starts.
Never measure squish on the ex & in, the piston can rock there, measure on the wrist pin axis.
Looks like your saw needs major work.
Wish I had better news.

 

[NCFarmboy]

My advice is ditch that AM PC. Second thought you might try a set of Caber rings may or may not help. Oem 357 or 359 prices have come way down. Hyway or Meteor is good AM. Lots of sources for good AM. Ebay seller dandrikop has good AM stuff.
Shep

 

[Dub11]

This might be helpful for working on it

http://opeforum.com/threads/husqvarna-357-359-repair-thread.9722/

And this was after a quick search.
https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...ahUKEwj6sf_cw5_ZAhUV42MKHYB4DMcQwg8IKw&adurl=

@Spike60 is who lots of people call to get one husky parts and is super cool.

 

[davidwyby]

That is no comp at all, I'm surprised it even starts.
Never measure squish on the ex & in, the piston can rock there, measure on the wrist pin axis.
Looks like your saw needs major work.
Wish I had better news.

I measured it as it’s laid out. 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock with 12 at exh.

I’ll dig up vac test stuff at lunchtime tomorrow hopefully and then get at it after work.

Didn’t I read about one of the AMs plating peeling?

My understanding is the 46mm bore has better ports and the 47mm has more cubes. Or are there cylinders with 47mm and better ports now - or is the larger bore better once a pro porter gets after it?

Good or bad to remove the dividers/baffles in the 59 port covers? I read it’s good to remove them on the 2166. Then there’s the stuffer cranks...


While it’s apart, besides correcting squish are there any other simple porting improvements I could do? Casting flash here, a 1/16” here or there? Assuming I keep this cylinder at least for the time being. Might be a good practice piece. I don’t think I want to take the time to learn porting degree wheel and all, I think it would be more efficient to just send it off at that point.

Thanks!

 

[Marshy]

Glad you made it @davidwyby.

 

[Marshy]

Some vids

How sharp is your chain? Only time I've ever had a saw act like that is the chain is dull or overly agressive.

The saw is still low on compressio and has 0.050" squish. I would delete the base gasket and run it more. I also think there is some improvement on the chain that can be made.

The seller you purchased from said the other 2159 he has for sale has 130# of compression and thst stock they only have 120#!

 

[Gentleman]

A new OEM cylinder should cost around $120

 

[Marshy]

@Jon1212, could you move this to the main chainsaw thread? Maybe it'll get more traffic...? Or disregard. Idk.

 

[Jon1212]

@Jon1212, could you move this to the main chainsaw thread? Maybe it'll get more traffic...? Or disregard. Idk.

Done. I agree, Wade, it needs a bit more visibility.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Ditch the AM top end
Should be able to score an OEM for a tad over $100

 

[davidwyby]

BTW/FYI...For the time being...I want to stay cool with the seller. I need to see what’s up with the saw and talk to him some more. thanks.

 

[Dub11]

BTW/FYI...For the time being...I want to stay cool with the seller. I need to see what’s up with the saw and talk to him some more. thanks.

Did he ever run it with the am cylinder?

 

[Jon1212]

BTW/FYI...For the time being...I want to stay cool with the seller. I need to see what’s up with the saw and talk to him some more. thanks.

Hopefully you didn't pay more than $100-150 for that saw.