066 Blue Beast

[MustangMike]

I just fired up my 066 Blue Beast tonight, popped on the 6th pull then started soon after.

Some one gave me this 066 round top parts saw, no crank, not many bolts, burned piston, broken recoil, etc.

So I ordered one of the new Blue Cover Asian 660 kits to see if they had made any changes … they have!

My saw has an OEM jug, Meteor Piston, OEM piston pin bearing and clips, and an OEM Elastostart pull handle. The rest of it came in the box.

Here it is:

 

[MustangMike]

Differences noted between the Blue Cover kit and the previous kits I've assembled:

1) The chain adjuster worked w/o any modification. As a result I used the Asian case halves instead of the originals like I had planned.

2) High Idle works … I was going to use an OEM control lever, but no need. The Chinese came up with a real nifty mod to the carb (see pics below), there is a little metal arm that locks the throttle when you put the choke on and releases when you use the throttle. Hate to say it, but it seems like a much better way to solve the problem.

3) The fuel cap does not leak! It comes with a addl round O ring washer on top of the flat washer. That was a solution I had discovered when dealing with the previous kits … they must read our threads!

4) Even though I built the saw with a base gasket, I had to mod the hole in the top cover a bit on the lower left side. However, the filter cover did have a plate to block the hole for winter use. I've resorted to using duct tape on some of them.

5) I've not had problems with the Farmtec plugs, but this one came with a Bosh, go figure!

As you may have noticed in the 1st pic above, I always put the bar bolts in backward, I just like having longer bolts and it seems to work well that way for me.

Very pleased it is up and running with so few non Asian parts.

 

[MustangMike]

I had an almost new Elastostart handle that someone broke the rope on, so I decided to install it on this saw. Problem is Elastostart ropes have a cone on the end and a rubber collar a few inches down.

I tied a knot in the end in place of the cone, and wrapped electrical tape tightly around the rope in place of the rubber collar. Does not look as pretty, but it works!

 

[RI Chevy]

Put the spot light on and fire this puppy up!

 

[MustangMike]

The 066 jug had .020 squish with a base gasket. I just widened the exhaust port a bit and lowered the intake a little. Ended up with Ex 97, Tr 123 and In 83.

That is my home made degree wheel printed from the internet.

I'm thankful these Asian kits are available, as they allow us to bring stuff like this back to life w/o breaking the bank!

 

[MustangMike]

Put the spot light on and fire this puppy up!

Read my fist post! That is just what I did!

 

[RI Chevy]

Well.... Where is the vids? Lol
Put it in some wood tonight!

 

[MustangMike]

No wood near the house. Was just glad she fired up.

 

[RI Chevy]

So these Huztl kits are better than the other Chinese clones. Hmmm.

 

[MustangMike]

The Blue ones are the newer ones, they all came from the same folks. They made a few improvements.

 

[MustangMike]

One other improvement I almost forgot, the coil wire did not need to be shortened, and the plug attachment has a rubber collar like the OEM ones.

 

[RI Chevy]

AHHH. OK. Thanks Mike

 

[smokey7]

Dang Mike you got to have a metric chit ton of these clone saws now. Also a bunch of saws blended in with parts saws. Now as far as the porting..... Myself and likely others probably wouldnt have lowered the intake atall. Especially if it was already at or very close to 80. Your numbers should run good like that though. Does this saw have a chingy crank, seals and bearings? Im kinda currious how long they will hold up as id love to build one. But if the blue assembled ones are that much better id go that way before building one in the oem color scheme. I know in the auto world as in a certified heavy duty mechanic by trade. Ive had such bad luck with the ultra cheap china bearings i pretty much refuse to use them unless the customer understands my experience and iscall they can afford. So without too much more rambling id love to see someone put one of these saws on a chainsaw powered firewood processor and run the piss out of it tank after tank treating it just like a oem saw and see how long the bearings and p&c hold up. If someone got 500 to 1000 hours out of one with proper care and maintenance i think it would be a homeruns dont you.

 

[MustangMike]

I have about 15-20 tanks through one, 90% of it milling tough stuff (like Hickory and 24" wide Red Oak), and it is still fine (OEM piston pin bearing).

I believe atfleetcommand has sent several of them out with pro users and they held up fine.

I flush every bearing with WD40 before I turn it, and I have seen decent size chunks of metal come out. IMO, the biggest problem is they don't keep these things clean.

The fact that none of the saws blew up at Randy's competition (and almost all were "built") speaks volumes. I would never claim they are as good as OEM, but I believe they are far better than most people think and will give you good service life if properly maintained.

 

[MustangMike]

Dang Mike you got to have a metric chit ton of these clone saws now

I have an OEM 066 flat top (MMWS), a 066 Round Top with Cross P+C (the saw in the HL Supply video), 3 Asian 660s w/Cross P+C, an Asian 660 big bore, and now this one.

I also sold the Asian Twins (660s w/Cross P+C), one to my brother and one to the guy next door. They don't use them much, but when they do they generally call me an gloat how well they run.

I will thin the heard after I play with them for a bit.

The good thing is they don't cost much. The Blue Kit came (free shipping) to my door for just over 2 bills. I had the cylinder, so just add a Meteor piston, OEM piston pin bearing and clips, and Elastostart Pull cord and you are good to go!

You can do 5 of them for the cost of a new saw! If you don't have a cylinder, look for the Cross to go on sale, they are well worth it (I use both their P+C).

 

[RI Chevy]

You have become our resident Chinese saw expert Mike. Good deal.

 

[MustangMike]

One other thing I do on all the Asian saws … I use the supplied decomp … but they are prone to loosing the plastic cap, which makes them vulnerable to the saw eating them … NG!

I pop the plastic cap (put needle nose pliers under it) and put a dab of PL Premium in there to glue it down. Never lost one after that, and now the saw is safe! After that, they seem to work just fine for me. (I mark them after I mod them so I know it has been done).

 

[MustangMike]

Well, I'm happy, feels pretty strong and is well mannered! Put it in some Red Maple that was all the 28" bar would go through, then did some noodling. Gotta really lean on it to slow it, but she keeps pulling even when slowed, which is what I like in a big saw (milling, stumping, etc).

Idles nice, 4 strokes (with Hi open about 2 turns), and re starts real easy with the decomp when warm. With my back still not 100%, that is a welcome feature!

Plus, it almost matches my car!!!

Hey, someone gave me the cylinder, I cleaned it up and ported it, and the kit and parts … I'm in it for about $250! I'll take it!

This was the first time I cut since I pinched the nerve in my back, was good to get out and do a little bit, but did not want to do too much just yet.

 

[RI Chevy]

Nice Mike. You drop the tree too?

 

[MustangMike]

Update … the tape on the recoil rope did not hold, so the knot got swallowed by the handle, but it works just fine, including Elastostart feature! It seems the knot can't pass through the bottom of the recoil … good! With the Ex at 97, it is not that hard to start anyway.