High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

064 crankrod knock?

oaky

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good lord.. i can not get this flywheel side seal to seal. i think the case is too badly damaged from someone digging out the seal previously. i was alittle afraid of that.
this saw has been such a long process to complete and now a real disappointment.
ive seen decent running 064s going for 350$ recently on here and i paid 300 just for the saw as a parts saw.
im bout ready to throw this saw in the river.

now if i wanted to get this thing going id have to take it all apart again get all new seals and gaskets again. get a another case halve and buy some tools to get the case back together. id be almost 1000$deep in this saw.
I will never buy another saw from Maine ever again.
 

huskihl

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How long does it take the vacuum gauge to drop from 7 to 0?
 

oaky

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i just filled the crankcase with mixfuel and it leaks out the outside of the seal. third time i tried to seal it.
 

Canadian farm boy

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518 will typically work if the housing isn’t scraped up to bad and the surfaces are cleaned and degreased. It’s only good for sealing gaps of about .001”-.002” and it should sit over night to dry. Plus it’s an anerobic sealer which means it dries in the absence of air. Which is nice because the extra can be wiped away.

If 518 isn’t working you likely have some real deep scratches and scrapes. Maybe try dirko or yamabond or one of the equivalent sealers.
 

huskihl

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I’m with Mike. I use Motoseal and I’ve never had one leak there. But that doesn’t mean anything really as yours could definitely be worse
 
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oaky

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okay, ill order some more seals and ill try this dirko. looks like dirko ships overseas
 

BuckthornBonnie

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Verify seal depth, too. 064s are deeper than most other Stihls to accommodate the flywheel. The 518 breakdown above is 100% correct. I don’t even use it on base gasket deletes due to those variables. Great stuff if used appropriately, though.

An AM 064 (some 066 sets give you both sizes) set or 046 seal could be a savings if you’ve mangled a few OEM and your budget is tight.
 

BuckthornBonnie

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Are the bearings indexed properly and tight in the cases? Any wiggle to the crankshaft ?
 

oaky

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what u guys think of this lower rod bearing..

theres no up and down play
 

oaky

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Are the bearings indexed properly and tight in the cases? Any wiggle to the crankshaft ?

the bearings and shaft are fine. believe my issues lie within the worn out rod bearing, its alittle rough in one spot as well.
 

Spladle160

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If it can tilt back and forth that means there is some up and down play though there doesn't look to be much more than new. If I were building it with the intention of putting a few hundred hours on it and I had a tighter crank available I would consider splitting it and swapping them but... to me that crank looks pretty good.
 

Al Smith

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If you used Loctite 271 ,which is listed as a thread locker it will not leak .Once it sets up it takes 400 -500 degrees of heat to release it .If however the seal lip gets rolled on installation it won't seal anything .I only use this stuff as a last resort because it's a chore to take things apart again if need be .
 

Scotty Overkill

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Had this exact issue with one of my 064's, combined with a loose bearing sleeve on the PTO side....

I cheated a bit with the loose sleeve (which I'm sure was a result of the PO over tightening the bar constantly) by using a small center punch and dimpling the mag case all the way around that sleeve from the inside of the case. Also had a very sloppy connectng rod......so being this being one of my work saws, I went ahead and bought an AM crank assembly. Been using it all spring and so far it's working flawlessly.....
 

oaky

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i have been looking at the new west crank via internet. it seems like a decent option.
anyone have experience with am cranks?

not sure if i trust buying a used oem crank on ebay.
 
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