044 project

[Wonkydonkey]

If you can' thet one of these spacers, I guess a washer and some hot melt glue would help the install,

But it's your build, so its up to what you do

 

[MattG]

If you can' thet one of these spacers, I guess a washer and some hot melt glue would help the install,

But it's your build, so its up to what you do

Yah...... or just make one up myself with a bit of 4-5mm thick steel.

Like most things in life.....it's just a trade-in between money spent vs. personal effort.

 

[Definitive Dave]

I am out of stock on those awesome spacers but there are more on the way I should have them later this week I believe.

 

[Adamski]

Yah...... or just make one up myself with a bit of 4-5mm thick steel.

Like most things in life.....it's just a trade-in between money spent vs. personal effort.

I prefer personal effort, makes the worth feel the while a whole lot more..

 

[Adirondackstihl]

I prefer personal effort, makes the worth feel the while a whole lot more..

I've hand made the 1st (2) from .1875" alum.
Was a pain.
Well worth buying them from @Definitive Dave

 

[Adamski]

I've hand made the 1st (2) from .1875" alum.
Was a pain.
Well worth buying them from @Definitive Dave

I see your point but I would still prefer to make a 'one off' over buying one if capabilities etc allow..

 

[Lightning Performance]

Two washers and a welded nail will work but not forever and looks like *s-word.

Learn to use clay. Muck it up, land the jug, install the bolts, reverse, cut and pull the clay. Measure it.

Stop trying to be a *f-wording hack and do it right the first time! Was that crystal clear enough for you??? DO IT RIGHT

You asked, you were give a damn good procedure to follow, why chance it? Why question it?

This is exactly what gets builders pissed off and clamming up.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

I see your point but I would still prefer to make a 'one off' over buying one if capabilities etc allow..

Meh
Just spend the $10-$12 and be done with it.
I'll send you a sticker with proof of purchase

 

[dall]

lol i didnt get no sticker lol

 

[Adamski]

Two washers and a welded nail will work but not forever and looks like *s-word.

Learn to use clay. Muck it up, land the jug, install the bolts, reverse, cut and pull the clay. Measure it.

Stop trying to be a *frenching hack and do it right the first time! Was that crystal clear enough for you??? DO IT RIGHT

You asked, you were give a damn good procedure to follow, why chance it? Why question it?

This is exactly what gets builders pissed off and clamming up.

Whoa... did someone get outta the wrong side of the bed this morning

[emoji36] [emoji15] [emoji15] [emoji15] [emoji15]

 

[blsnelling]

Did you clearance the sides of the cylinder base, the cooling fins that contact the case on the PTO side, and the transfer bulge where the flywheel may hit it? The goal is simply to get the cylinder to set flat on the crankcase...nothing more. If the bolts then go in easily, you're good to go. Done.

Once bolted down, does the piston go past BDC without hitting? I've never seen a 440 case that needs clearanced for a 460 jug. You're only going to run into that with a 046BB kit.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

lol i didnt get no sticker lol

Proof of Purchase?

 

[dall]

Proof of Purchase?

lol ask dave or I can take hybrid apart lol

 

[MattG]

Did you clearance the sides of the cylinder base, the cooling fins that contact the case on the PTO side, and the transfer bulge where the flywheel may hit it? The goal is simply to get the cylinder to set flat on the crankcase...nothing more. If the bolts then go in easily, you're good to go. Done.

Once bolted down, does the piston go past BDC without hitting? I've never seen a 440 case that needs clearanced for a 460 jug. You're only going to run into that with a 046BB kit.

Hey Brad

Yeah, I first off clearanced the jug basically at those exact points you mentioned. Then I spent ages slowly taking off more and more of the inside of the jug holes (initially taping down the 44 gasket, as a ref) until all 4 thread up really smoothly. Now you can freely rotate the crank several times just grabbing a crank end in your fingers through BDC etc. Real smooth and nice. So yeah, I'm all good in that regard.

Regards clearancing the case mouth re. the piston possibly contacting when hot/worn/moving fast etc. it's reassuring to see your above remark. My project is quite a "Frankensaw" (remember I'm using 044 10mm w/p casings?), but given what I stated/observed in this post #116 I'm imagine I'm fine regarding that too. Just to be safe, I may shave off ~0.5mm at the narrowest points (given that I know that it already clears fine here on the bench), but I'm kinda undecided for now and not unduly stressed about it.

Anyway, I hope your recovery is proceeding nicely!

 

[drf256]

Looking great Matt.

I missed if you timed the cylinder or not?

This is one case where a jug with "bad timing" would work better IMHO.

You're gonna have a lot of case pressure with that tiny case. I'd want the transfers physically lower than a standard 12mm hybrid myself.

Like 101/124/76

Bet this saw will rev to the moon.

 

[MattG]

Looking great Matt.

I missed if you timed the cylinder or not?

This is one case where a jug with "bad timing" would work better IMHO.

You're gonna have a lot of case pressure with that tiny case. I'd want the transfers physically lower than a standard 12mm hybrid myself.

Like 101/124/76

Bet this saw will rev to the moon.

I've not timed it yet! So many things to do......so I guess figuring out how to use a degree wheel, and actually purchase one! should happen very soon.

I also want to respray the casings, probably just after getting the old bearings out. @Adamski has used tractor paints to great success before on stihl saws, and credit to him, has sent me some good advice about prepping for a really hard finish.

So it's gonna to be slow project (which is cool) for me.

I'm wondering whether I should temporarily put the 044 jug/crank/piston (it's all stock I'm sure) back in, and do some measurements on that first, to get a handle on where I am first. Unless of course some kind soul on here already has those figures?......

 

[drf256]

Do all timing on your case as is right now. Use intended parts. Any grinding as well.

When fully done and happy, split saw. Full disassembly followed by vigorous cleaning to remove any particles of abrasive/metal/plating.

That's what I would do.

 

[Basher]

Do all timing on your case as is right now. Use intended parts. Any grinding as well.

When fully done and happy, split saw. Full disassembly followed by vigorous cleaning to remove any particles of abrasive/metal/plating.

That's what I would do.

I boil all the metal parts in soapy water for 5 mins and rinse well with scalding hot clean water, the parts dry rapidly after removal due to being heated by the water. This gets them cleaner than I ever could get them by just using petroleum cleaners and compressed air. Surprising how much gunk will be in the pot/container after boiling,even the blind threaded holes will be much cleaner.

 

[drf256]

I boil all the metal parts in soapy water for 5 mins and rinse well with scalding hot clean water, the parts dry rapidly after removal due to being heated by the water. This gets them cleaner than I ever could get them by just using petroleum cleaners and compressed air. Surprising how much gunk will be in the pot/container after boiling,even the blind threaded holes will be much cleaner.

The wife don't mind?

 

[Basher]

The wife don't mind?

I have my own gear for chainsaw work, no working in the wife`s kitchen...LOL
even have my own dishswaher in the old shop but turned down the heat so it don`t fade plastics. I want very hot water for cleaning the metal parts after grinding.