044 project

[brandonstclair20]

I hate to barge in on your thread, but while on the subject. Since the strokes are the same. I wonder if it would be possible to put an 048 cylinder on an 044 or ms440.


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[huskihl]

I hate to barge in on your thread, but while on the subject. Since the strokes are the same. I wonder if it would be possible to put an 048 cylinder on an 044 or ms440.


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Not too sure about the use of an 048, but an 046 and 048 are the same size and they use an 046 jug on the 044/440 chassis to build a hybrid

 

[brandonstclair20]

Not too sure about the use of an 048, but an 046 and 048 are the same size and they use an 046 jug on the 044/440 chassis to build a hybrid

I have a spare enough parts minus the cylinder to build an 044/ms440 hybrid. I think I have an 048 cylinder if I can find my box of parts. It could make for an interesting saw build. It might not give as good of a performance tho.


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[huskihl]

I have a spare enough parts minus the cylinder to build an 044/ms440 hybrid. I think I have an 048 cylinder if I can find my box of parts. It could make for an interesting saw build. It might not give as good of a performance tho.


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048 is a different series, also. The bolt pattern, muffler, intake....may be very different as well. No idea

 

[MattG]

@mdavlee
I just wanted to reply to your last post a tiny bit more

I'm not really in this project just to get a certain class of saw. When it comes to saws I'm just a weekend warrior - lol - so already have plenty saws for my requirements.

I just embarked on the whole project just as an engineering challenge, whilst the ultimate goal is to get a hybrid actually together and working, but if I don't succeed then although some cash and time will have gone down the drain, hopefully I'll have still learnt something!

Anyway, I'm not trying to get all defensive an' all cos I really value your advice and that of all the other guys!

 

[brandonstclair20]

048 is a different series, also. The bolt pattern, muffler, intake....may be very different as well. No idea

It uses a boot so I could probably make that work. If the exhaust port was larger I could probably re-drill holes and enlarge the port in the 044 muffler. I would be concerned about the wrist pin size and the bolt pattern.


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[mdavlee]

@mdavlee
I just wanted to reply to your last post a tiny bit more

I'm not really in this project just to get a certain class of saw. When it comes to saws I'm just a weekend warrior - lol - so already have plenty saws for my requirements.

I just embarked on the whole project just as an engineering challenge, whilst the ultimate goal is to get a hybrid actually together and working, but if I don't succeed then although some cash and time will have gone down the drain, hopefully I'll have still learnt something!

Anyway, I'm not trying to get all defensive an' all cos I really value your advice and that of all the other guys!

It's all good. Got to get the dogs in since some of the atihl guys are always telling us to toss the huskies in the trash and buy stihls. 044 and 372 are made almost identical setup on the clutch side so it was a common way to do that in that time period.

 

[MattG]

Quick update - I got to work with the dremel after marking out the area to attack. I then carefully reinstalled with the stihl winding-in tool. It's much better now - still rubs the big one at the bottom, but I was able to rock the whole thing around a little and figure out that its just around a 2cm strip. So I marked this zone and am ready to grab a coffee and go back to the workshop and have another (cautious) go.

I'll post piccies another time - am currently on a bit of a roll with it as you can imagine.

 

[MattG]

Ok, I grinded it 2 separate sessions now. I think it nearly there - there's a couple of bits where there's still a slight grabbing tween the end and the casings.

Here goes, lining her up, marked up ready for the first grind:


dust storm!



and just for completeness, since I've obviously got fairly familiar with the crank shaft winding in tools..........(after an initial rough ride).. what the manual doesn't tell is that this seemed to be the best position (well for me at least!) of pulling the crank in. Since then you've got one hand to turn the spindle, and one free to hold to casing down....don't even think of using your third non-existent hand which, if I remember rightly, the manual alludes to you using to hold the crank still....hmm...right....

 

[Adirondackstihl]

I woulda just ground the big end of the con rod

 

[brandonstclair20]

I would remove the metal shield on the bearing so it can get oil.


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[BuckthornBonnie]

I would remove the metal shield on the bearing so it can get oil.


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I don't believe he installed new bearings... so those may be the original shielded bearings of Stihl infamy. They work, but there's a reason Stihl stopped using them.

But, I could be wrong and if he did install new bearings then yes, the shields should be popped out.

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

And... if it were mine... I would put new OEM bearings in it.

 

[MattG]

And... if it were mine... I would put new OEM bearings in it.

Don't worry I will. But not until I've got all the crank sorted and any other grinding is done.

 

[MattG]

I woulda just ground the big end of the con rod

Or just put a 200T crank in there instead? That should clear easily!

 

[MattG]

Ok, I've been really busy around the place (still trimming/lowering our conifer boundary hedge). But I've finally managed to get my 12mm w/p crank running nice and free in the 10mm w/p casing (well only the ignition side for now, but thats most of the battle).

Here's a piccy:


as you can see I measured the clearance I'm getting at the tightest point. You can see I'm getting the 3 thou blade in easy, nice 'n' slidey. I wondering though whether this will be adequate taking into account thermal expansion and vibration and movement (at like 14k). I'd value your views on this one people.....

In fact I'm gonna be cheeky and send an ask out there....have any of you got an engine (any medium sized pro saw) split down like....c'mon someone else must be doing a build.....and if so could you possibly do me a favour and make a similar measurement, then I can compare this, to a regular engine. Thanks!

 

[MustangMike]

If piston squish only needs about .016 or .017, then I think you are fine down there with those tolerances, a lot less heat and expansion with steel than with hot aluminum. But that is just my opinion, I will let those in the know respond.

 

[MattG]

If piston squish only needs about .016 or .017, then I think you are fine down there with those tolerances, a lot less heat and expansion with steel than with hot aluminum. But that is just my opinion, I will let those in the know respond.

Cool, thanks buddy. The only equivalent thing I had in my mind by way of a comparision was car valve clearances....for my honda civics they are between 007 (tight inlet) and 011 (loose exhaust)...any way lets see if anyone else can chime in - even better if someone can do measurement for me!

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Personally, I'd like to see more clearance than the thickness of a human hair.

 

[Wood Doctor]

In reference back to posts #22 and #23, I'm pleased to report that I was able to rebuild the MS440 that was trashed by a tree drop and log crush (AM parts). I had no idea whether is would start and run when repairs were complete. It did and ran like as if nothing had happened.

The owner is a very satisfied tree trimmer. My total parts cost was about $150 and the saw is running today on the job. He told me that the tree's log that fell on that MS440 was 40 feet up and so heavy that they had to use a fork lift to carry it away. The case, top end, bar, and chain survived but not much else did. Frankly, I was astounded that it still runs well.