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MattG

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That's a good tune. It still readily 4-strokes.
Thanks. Yeah, I'm pretty pleased with. Not bad considering I've not touched the ign. or the transfer duration. I'm guessing with those mods and slightly more aggressive inlet and exhaust timing, you could squeeze 15.5k out of one of these babies....
 

Wonkydonkey

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I like the beech cutting vid, where it goes VerrrrVeeerrrrr and Judders while it pulls like a train,
yeah the clutch losses grip at times but that's ripping for you.:)

I guess your happy with that saw,, I know I would be.;)
 

MattG

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I like the beech cutting vid, where it goes VerrrrVeeerrrrr and Judders while it pulls like a train,
yeah the clutch losses grip at times but that's ripping for you.:)

I guess your happy with that saw,, I know I would be.;)
Yeah, it's pretty tasty now!
 

MattG

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A couple more vids. I messed with the carby in the week. Previously "I'd set the POP". I'm curious as whether that was such a great idea. Wondering if it made it harder for the saw to pull the needle off the seat at idle, because idle is hard to set smooth on this thing. Who knows? Anyway, I just (eventually) reset the inlet lever thing back at 0.8mm. I've retuned it a bit, I think it tachs to about 15-15.2k. Definitely as high as I want to go with, and reckon that when it goes in much bigger wood, then perhaps it should be made a tiny bit richer. Thoughts?


and

 

BuckthornBonnie

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15k- I’d go below that for actual saw work... but that’s just me.
Did the idle issue go away? Lots of factors affect idling, so just set it for a steady-ish idle close to spec where the clutch doesn’t engage. And of course look for good throttle response and 1-pull restarts when hot.
 

blsnelling

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A couple more vids. I messed with the carby in the week. Previously "I'd set the POP". I'm curious as whether that was such a great idea. Wondering if it made it harder for the saw to pull the needle off the seat at idle, because idle is hard to set smooth on this thing. Who knows? Anyway, I just (eventually) reset the inlet lever thing back at 0.8mm. I've retuned it a bit, I think it tachs to about 15-15.2k. Definitely as high as I want to go with, and reckon that when it goes in much bigger wood, then perhaps it should be made a tiny bit richer. Thoughts?


and

The tune in the first video sounds better than in the second video. The second one sounds a little on the lean side. Or, are you giving it partial throttle?

Forget what the tach says and quit worrying about actual RPMs. Give the saw what it wants to run right.

I tend to chase the L tune on my 440/460 hybrid as well. I have never messed with the POP on a saw, so don't know what affect that may or may not have.
 

MattG

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15k- I’d go below that for actual saw work... but that’s just me.
Did the idle issue go away? Lots of factors affect idling, so just set it for a steady-ish idle close to spec where the clutch doesn’t engage. And of course look for good throttle response and 1-pull restarts when hot.
I guess the idle is better now have homed in on the tune more and it's loosened up a lil. The trigger response is ace, and the hot restarts are 1-pull. The chain ain't creeping yet, but probably because the clutch is brand new. ;)

I did do a vid where I left it idling for a bit. It's apparently uploading now, but I do currently live in SlowInternetVille :risas3:

The tune in the first video sounds better than in the second video. The second one sounds a little on the lean side. Or, are you giving it partial throttle?
In the noodle vid I've exactly the same H screw setting as the first vid. (Hmm... I may have twiddled with the L side..). But yeah, I will have definitely started cutting on partial throttle until buried and then whacked it on full.

Forget what the tach says and quit worrying about actual RPMs. Give the saw what it wants to run right.
I know what you mean ;) I often like to tach it after a screw adjust just to get a ball park idea of what's going on with it.

I tend to chase the L tune on my 440/460 hybrid as well. I have never messed with the POP on a saw, so don't know what affect that may or may not have.
I'm glad it's not just mine that's temperamental on the L tune! My experimentation with POP is over for me now. Probably more necessary on machines where the fuel is pumped, I'm only gonna pay strict attention to the lever height being in spec from now on.
 

MustangMike

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Your saw sounds just fine, and only run em at full throttle. Hybrids are just high RPM saws, don't go by what other saws run at. (large displacement for case volume).

I also would keep the same tune for all wood. Just as long as it 4 stroke out of the cut, just go cut some wood!
 

MattG

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Thanks for the opinions people. I'm probably going to put the hybrid down for a bit, since I bought myself a nice clean 036 in the summer....and I guess it deserves a chance to work!

Back to the hybrid, perhaps next year I'll put a new carb on it can't decide which one perhaps HD-11, HD-15, or HD-17 (they are in my 044 ipl) or perhaps an MS460 one e.g. HD-14, HD-16. (More opinions?)

It's got a Zama C3 on now, which is probably very tired, I mean mine was an early 044, so cr@p knows how old it is.
 

MustangMike

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Unlike many others, I really like ZAMA carbs, but of the other choices, the HD-11 s/b the best choice, as it comes with the richest jetting. In fact, my Hybrid would not tune with a 460 carb.

The HD-11 is NLA, but was used on 044 Arctic saws. My Hybrid and my 10 mm 044 currently run them.

Every saw is different. My ported 460 loved the HD-50 (461 carb) far better than the other choices, but the other saws did not like that carb at all. Go figure.
 

MattG

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A bit rich might add a bit of carbon to the exhaust. A bit lean might add a bit of aluminum(or aluminium) to the exhaust. Take your pick. ;)
Ha! Indeed.....personally I'd rather take the carbon anyway. I know you got carbon sucked back into yours, Wes, but when I got my 044 the top end had lean abuse written all over it. There's a couple of pics on the first few pages of thread, if I recall.
 
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