MattG
Chainosaurus Rex
- Local time
- 2:17 PM
- User ID
- 3111
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2017
- Messages
- 896
- Reaction score
- 1,432
- Location
- Cambridgeshire, England
I guess it's still fat? These things can rev....
I'd richen it back up until you can get the chain to dig in a little. Right now the saw is spinning nearly as fast in the wood as it is out of the wood
I'd richen it back up until you can get the chain to dig in a little. Right now the saw is spinning nearly as fast in the wood as it is out of the wood
For god's sake stay out of the small wood with that beast. It finally cleaned up in that eucalyptus, cut more of that or something bigger. Tune seemed ok there to me, I would not run it any fatter than that. You want to get the ring to seat, don't be afraid to bury the bar.
Yeah that's a good idea!If larger wood is unavailable you could make a log rack with uprights however far apart you want your pieces long and stack a bunch of those long small diameter logs.
Thanks Brad,The tune in your last video is great for a work tune. It 4-strokes unless you're really working it. It's still borderline rich but I'd leave it there.
Put a load on that thing! You're letting it nearly free-rev in all but the last cut!
Hi Sean,So, tdl can't read all pages again....
So did you shave 20tho off the key.?, I don't know if it works on a 44/46 hybrid,
But if others say it does, boy that saw will kick more a$$ than it does at the mo.
Put that thing in some real wood and put a load on it. That's what will seat the rings. Your not helping it by taking it easy on it.Thanks Brad,
Yes I think it's about there for work now. I messed with a lot of smaller/rubbish wood mainly to get it broke in and experiment a little. I've been trying to save the decent wood for when it's better run-in and I've got more of a handle on the tune. Hopefully get some slightly better cutting vids done in the next few weeks.
Hi Sean,
No I never touched the ignition timing.
This is where I'm going to differ from others views. In my opinion you advance the ignition timing on an engine if you suspect that it's not getting enough time in the firing cycle to burn the charge adequately to power the engine round.
The fact that this engine will 4-stroke up to 14.8k (at least!), says to me that the engine has plenty of time to burn gas at the revs I want it to.
Why would you want to leave meat on the bone? IMHO, the job isn't finished until you advance the ignition. It does make a difference.I hear what you guys are saying.....
But I stick by my original judgement.
The piccie @Wonkydonkey linked is one of the latest ign. systems with overrev detection. The earlier systems? I've seen a couple of circuit diagrams. Essentially they will use a fairly RC arrangement to provide time delay i.e. the same number of micro-seconds will be given to burn at 8k as at 14k.
EDIT: Sorry, this isn't quite the truth. I guess they use a hall effect device (i.e. when the bump on the f/w aligns with the ignition module), and this I guess gives the unit a reference point. When I said RC above, it is either an RC or LC circuit, that changes the Low tension side.
The point I'm trying to make is that with a comprised design of a early 2 stroke CDI system, you may think that you are just shifting an advance angle; but quite there are time constants involved, and so the exact behaviour will vary at different revs.
That says to me, that a small increase of advance will give a high revving saw more time to burn charge at high revs, but when the engine is loaded higher, the revs are down, and whilst you are giving the engine the same time to burn, but your engine is turning slower, so it's more likely to overheat due to the excessive advance.
If this works for others, then that's good. But 14.7-15k is plenty high enough revs at WOT no load for me!
Nice analogy Brad!Why would you want to leave meat on the bone?