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Adamski

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I'd richen it back up until you can get the chain to dig in a little. Right now the saw is spinning nearly as fast in the wood as it is out of the wood

This is the issue I had when I tried tuning my ported 038 mag. I could not find wood big enough to slow it down or to get it to clean up in the wood. Us old firewood hacks [emoji23]
 

BonScott46

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For god's sake stay out of the small wood with that beast. It finally cleaned up in that eucalyptus, cut more of that or something bigger. Tune seemed ok there to me, I would not run it any fatter than that. You want to get the ring to seat, don't be afraid to bury the bar.
 

MattG

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I'd richen it back up until you can get the chain to dig in a little. Right now the saw is spinning nearly as fast in the wood as it is out of the wood

Yeah I know what you mean.

For god's sake stay out of the small wood with that beast. It finally cleaned up in that eucalyptus, cut more of that or something bigger. Tune seemed ok there to me, I would not run it any fatter than that. You want to get the ring to seat, don't be afraid to bury the bar.

I know - I'm just try to get it broke in reasonably quick - so I'm cutting a lot of stuff which either the 200T or the 036 should cut. This year's cutting wood (i.e. next winter's fuel) is mostly beech which I've already had to preprocess to get it off our drive way (where its dumped) down to the woodpile right at the bottom of the property, as far from civilisation as I can get. So we've actually got various lengths between 3" to 18" wide. Later on I'll get to some wider ash and birch, though that mostly been ringed to about a foot thick rounds.
 

BonScott46

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If larger wood is unavailable you could make a log rack with uprights however far apart you want your pieces long and stack a bunch of those long small diameter logs.
 

MattG

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Yeah, the saw is a beast. Before I finished this afternoon, I'd not changed the H screw from those last vids, and I retached it. The tach said....

14771

and I thought I'd done a mild port! I didn't actually touch the transfer's duration.

These saws kick butt.
 

Wonkydonkey

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So, tdl can't read all pages again....

So did you shave 20tho off the key.?, I don't know if it works on a 44/46 hybrid,
But if others say it does, boy that saw will kick more a$$ than it does at the mo.:):pesas:
 

blsnelling

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The tune in your last video is great for a work tune. It 4-strokes unless you're really working it. It's still borderline rich but I'd leave it there.

Put a load on that thing! You're letting it nearly free-rev in all but the last cut!
 

MattG

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The tune in your last video is great for a work tune. It 4-strokes unless you're really working it. It's still borderline rich but I'd leave it there.

Put a load on that thing! You're letting it nearly free-rev in all but the last cut!
Thanks Brad,

Yes I think it's about there for work now. I messed with a lot of smaller/rubbish wood mainly to get it broke in and experiment a little. I've been trying to save the decent wood for when it's better run-in and I've got more of a handle on the tune. Hopefully get some slightly better cutting vids done in the next few weeks.
 

MattG

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So, tdl can't read all pages again....

So did you shave 20tho off the key.?, I don't know if it works on a 44/46 hybrid,
But if others say it does, boy that saw will kick more a$$ than it does at the mo.:):pesas:
Hi Sean,

No I never touched the ignition timing.

This is where I'm going to differ from others views. In my opinion you advance the ignition timing on an engine if you suspect that it's not getting enough time in the firing cycle to burn the charge adequately to power the engine round.

The fact that this engine will 4-stroke up to 14.8k (at least!), says to me that the engine has plenty of time to burn gas at the revs I want it to.
 
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Wonkydonkey

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Well, @Mastermind says some saws it helps and other saws it don't, somewhere there a thread on this forum about ingintion timing, also I took a snap shot of this graph from the file. I don't know if your hybrid would be better or if it would make little difference,
But what I can say it made a lot of difference to my 036 along with a muff change.

You can see where the power is when the timing is best
image.jpeg
Any ways fwheel keys are cheap and I'd say it's worth exploring, like on that new 044 you got before you do anything else to it

Cheers
 

MattG

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I hear what you guys are saying..... ;)

But I stick by my original judgement.

The piccie @Wonkydonkey linked is one of the latest ign. systems with overrev detection. The earlier systems? I've seen a couple of circuit diagrams. Essentially they will use a fairly RC arrangement to provide time delay i.e. the same number of micro-seconds will be given to burn at 8k as at 14k.

EDIT: Sorry, this isn't quite the truth. I guess they use a hall effect device (i.e. when the bump on the f/w aligns with the ignition module), and this I guess gives the unit a reference point. When I said RC above, it is either an RC or LC circuit, that charges the Low tension side.

The point I'm trying to make is that with a comprised design of a early 2 stroke CDI system, you may think that you are just shifting an advance angle; but there are still time constants involved, and so the exact behaviour will vary at different revs.

That says to me, that a small increase of advance will give a high revving saw more time to burn charge at high revs, but when the engine is loaded higher, the revs are down, and whilst you are giving the engine the same time to burn, but your engine is turning slower, so it's more likely to overheat due to the excessive advance.

If this works for others, then that's good. But 14.7-15k is plenty high enough revs at WOT no load for me!
 
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Basher

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15,000 is where its all at for my work saws, higher screaming RPM is all right for cant cutters but no so much in loaded time cutting worksaws. Heat builds rapidly in prolonged loaded cuts so after trying shaved key advance on mine they got put back to stock for work.
 

blsnelling

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Thanks Brad,

Yes I think it's about there for work now. I messed with a lot of smaller/rubbish wood mainly to get it broke in and experiment a little. I've been trying to save the decent wood for when it's better run-in and I've got more of a handle on the tune. Hopefully get some slightly better cutting vids done in the next few weeks.
Put that thing in some real wood and put a load on it. That's what will seat the rings. Your not helping it by taking it easy on it.

Hi Sean,

No I never touched the ignition timing.

This is where I'm going to differ from others views. In my opinion you advance the ignition timing on an engine if you suspect that it's not getting enough time in the firing cycle to burn the charge adequately to power the engine round.

The fact that this engine will 4-stroke up to 14.8k (at least!), says to me that the engine has plenty of time to burn gas at the revs I want it to.

I hear what you guys are saying..... ;)

But I stick by my original judgement.

The piccie @Wonkydonkey linked is one of the latest ign. systems with overrev detection. The earlier systems? I've seen a couple of circuit diagrams. Essentially they will use a fairly RC arrangement to provide time delay i.e. the same number of micro-seconds will be given to burn at 8k as at 14k.

EDIT: Sorry, this isn't quite the truth. I guess they use a hall effect device (i.e. when the bump on the f/w aligns with the ignition module), and this I guess gives the unit a reference point. When I said RC above, it is either an RC or LC circuit, that changes the Low tension side.

The point I'm trying to make is that with a comprised design of a early 2 stroke CDI system, you may think that you are just shifting an advance angle; but quite there are time constants involved, and so the exact behaviour will vary at different revs.

That says to me, that a small increase of advance will give a high revving saw more time to burn charge at high revs, but when the engine is loaded higher, the revs are down, and whilst you are giving the engine the same time to burn, but your engine is turning slower, so it's more likely to overheat due to the excessive advance.

If this works for others, then that's good. But 14.7-15k is plenty high enough revs at WOT no load for me!
Why would you want to leave meat on the bone? IMHO, the job isn't finished until you advance the ignition. It does make a difference.
 

MattG

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Why would you want to leave meat on the bone?
Nice analogy Brad!

:beer-toast1:
Seriously, though, I'm leaving the ignition stock, for the reasons I outlined earlier. That is, I can't see any evidence that the ignition is failing to give the charge time to burn.

When I put into nicer, bigger wood, I'll do another vid or two, and we can listen then.

For what it's worth, I analysed a few sections of sound (i.e. the MP4 recording) using Audacity i.e. http://www.audacityteam.org/ and the engine was pulling ~11.5K when it was cleaned up it in that dead stump.

Like I said ages ago on this thread, I was never really after a racer, just a strong work saw. :)
 

blsnelling

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Do timed cuts before and after you advance the ignition and you'll have your evidence. The fact that it runs very well now in no way indicates it won't run better. Milk that puppy for all its worth! :)
 
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