High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

044 Cylinder rocks on case, and other questions.

Wisconsin Welder

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Hello,

Does anyone mill the "deck" for lack of a better term where the cylinder meets the two case halves?
The bottom of the cylinder is flat, and I am going to clip it tomorrow at work, so I was measuring squish with the new piston and noticed that the case halves are not even. Now, its not by much, maybe .007" in places, I tend to go overboard with stuff.

I had planned on using a gasket, a thinner one though, I was just checking squish to be sure I wasn't going to lock this thing up.

Would you guys mill the case to true it up? or is it just going to end up mismatched again when the halves get split one day, and the gasket will take care of it? I don't like the idea of the cylinder being machined to the best of my ability and then bolting it to that surface like "F it"
 

huskihl

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Hello,

Does anyone mill the "deck" for lack of a better term where the cylinder meets the two case halves?
The bottom of the cylinder is flat, and I am going to clip it tomorrow at work, so I was measuring squish with the new piston and noticed that the case halves are not even. Now, its not by much, maybe .007" in places, I tend to go overboard with stuff.

I had planned on using a gasket, a thinner one though, I was just checking squish to be sure I wasn't going to lock this thing up.

Would you guys mill the case to true it up? or is it just going to end up mismatched again when the halves get split one day, and the gasket will take care of it? I don't like the idea of the cylinder being machined to the best of my ability and then bolting it to that surface like "F it"
Are you sure both case halves are from the same era? Not sure if it makes a difference or not whether one half is a 10mm and the other is a 12, but a fella just did it with early vs late 066 cases and had the same results.

I've had some luck loosening the case bolts, punching back the alignment pins and then tightening the cylinder down. But I knew I was using the correct part numbers before I did it
 

Wisconsin Welder

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This is the way I got the saw, and I don't know enough about these to know if these were mismatched. there isn't a large step between the two, they're just misaligned, the cylinder bolt holes hit in two places diagonally from each other.

I think I'm just gonna run it lol.
It ran well before, I'm probably going to build another anyway. I need to have one saw this size running, I will be picky with the next one.

I'm not doing anything major to it, tried porting it a little bit, and I will trim the cylinder and use a thinner gasket, more interested in seeing if I notice the difference. This thing will need more work. the case passed vacuum and pressure test, I don't want to split it just to machine it.
 

Deets066

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This is the way I got the saw, and I don't know enough about these to know if these were mismatched. there isn't a large step between the two, they're just misaligned, the cylinder bolt holes hit in two places diagonally from each other.

I think I'm just gonna run it lol.
It ran well before, I'm probably going to build another anyway. I need to have one saw this size running, I will be picky with the next one.

I'm not doing anything major to it, tried porting it a little bit, and I will trim the cylinder and use a thinner gasket, more interested in seeing if I notice the difference. This thing will need more work. the case passed vacuum and pressure test, I don't want to split it just to machine it.
7 thou is a lot. Did the piston have abnormal wear?
 

huskihl

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I'm guessing maybe the base was sanded a little more in one spot than the other if it's rocking on a diagonal.
 

Wisconsin Welder

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No abnormal looking wear, intake side a little scratchy but not gouged. If you were going to mill that part of the cases, what do I indicate off of? the bore for the crank? And then maybe average it out front to back.
 

huskihl

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Never seen high spots diagonally in the cases. Seems more like it would be in the cylinder base. Or the fins are rubbing on the cases due to clearance issues after material removed from the base?
 

Wisconsin Welder

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Maybe I worded this wrong. I'll take some pictures.

The cylinder base is flat and hasn't been turned yet, the case halves are misaligned. Imagine if the two halves were loose and you twisted them like a rubiks cube.
 

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Maybe I worded this wrong. I'll take some pictures.

The cylinder base is flat and hasn't been turned yet, the case halves are misaligned. Imagine if the two halves were loose and you twisted them like a rubiks cube.
There are alignment pins that are supposed to be in there. Guessing they aren't and someone tightened up the cases without them. If that's what's happening, you should be able to loosen them up and locate them correctly.
 

huskihl

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Maybe I worded this wrong. I'll take some pictures.

The cylinder base is flat and hasn't been turned yet, the case halves are misaligned. Imagine if the two halves were loose and you twisted them like a rubiks cube.
The Rubik's cube thing...lol. That's a great example
 

Wisconsin Welder

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So 'nother question, I searched first. IF i decide to cut the squish band on this 044 cylinder, uh......

When I measure the squish right now, it really looks like the squish band isn't parallel to the piston, which makes sense, I think.

This is an OEM 044 cylinder with no decomp hole, it seems that the squish band tapers up, like moves away from the cylinder about .010" over its width. Is this just a casting thing or is that intentional and I should replicate that geometry if I cut it?
 

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So 'nother question, I searched first. IF i decide to cut the squish band on this 044 cylinder, uh......

When I measure the squish right now, it really looks like the squish band isn't parallel to the piston, which makes sense, I think.

This is an OEM 044 cylinder with no decomp hole, it seems that the squish band tapers up, like moves away from the cylinder about .010" over its width. Is this just a casting thing or is that intentional and I should replicate that geometry if I cut it?
Flat is fine, you wand a nice wide squish
 

drf256

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Sounds like a case mismatch. If you have the ability to mill the case cylinder pad area you should do so. I’ve never done it, but my understanding is that most spin down a piece of stock to slide through the bearing bores (to indicate off of) to make the pad a true 90* to the cylinder orientation.

Seems like a whole lotta work. I’d personally find another case.
 

Wisconsin Welder

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Thanks for the help guys, I got it back together and have about a tank through it now, the weather has sucked lately. I really appreciate all the knowledge that is put up here for everyone. I would not have torn into this thing and managed to port it, cut the squish band etc without what you guys have put together here, thank you.

Since the weather has sucked so much I bought more saws and ordered a s-load of parts. So yeah. More questions coming. :)
 
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