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I built one and it is a fun project. I used better rings and Stihl fuel and impulse lines. Ended up putting a used oem carb on it. I did have trouble with the flywheel, but after getting it lapped in, no trouble. I think it ended up with a bit of timing advance because it rips pretty good...

Doh... I usually forget to put the inner ring in..

Understood. I'm going to have to take a file to the displaced metal before I do anything, I think.

Will do. Thinking back, the surface machining was pretty rough. I took some 400 wet/dry to the bearing seal area before assembly, I guess I should have done the whole taper too.

Thanks Paragon, I will start with that. I will hit the hardware store tomorrow and pick up a longer key. Between lapping the taper and new key, I should be able to get her back running. I will post up when its back together.

So do you think the taper on the flywheel and the taper on the crank are just too different? Has the new key been working for you?

Bad news. She got hard to start then wouldn't... Had a shoulder nut and the flywheel was not loose. Bad interface?

I didn't measure it, but it's about the thickness of a dime. Also, the aftermarket is not the same thickness at all points.

Well, I figured out the problem with my carb! I was doing another leak check for a vacuum leak and I noticed that the intake block was not able to seal. I took off the metal ring that surrounds the intake rubber and it sealed up fine. I had an oem ring and compared the two..... Put the...

Hope you get it to stay tight, it's not a lot of fun tearing stuff apart again and again. Fired up mine about a half hour ago. Ran like a champ for about five minutes. Idled nice and burbled at wide open. Started chasing tune after that. Thought maybe bad vent, but opening fuel cap didn't...

Here is Charlie bustin' her back down.

Dang! Thanks Driver. I just put the last bolt in the recoil cover in five minutes ago! I'll pull that nut and get some locktite on it asap!

Good point on the casting quality. So far I'm not coming up short on any more parts, except for a little rubber part that is supposed to go on top somewhere. I do have an extra piece that I can't, for the life of me figure out where it goes. BTW, I wish my garage was 50 degrees!

Hey @67L36Driver. Finally got some actual assembly time in this afternoon. Goobered up the PTO side seal a tad, so I changed it out. Ended up with .024" without a gasket. - I used the original Farmertec piston because i wanted to see how it does instead of the Meteor. What did your squish...

Got my piston in the mail from @Definitive Dave today. He ran out of the Farmertec I ordered, so he sent a Meteor so I wouldn't be without! Two big thumbs up on the customer service!! Definitely a difference between the two pistons...

I do want some of your deflectors, I may have to stop by your shop on way to my folks in SE MI sometime!

SE Grand Rapids area. How bout you?

I have ordered a piston kit from DDave as well. I don't think I'll even bother with trying to get them to replace the pin. I can use the extra piston in my Stihl MS361 if I ever need a piston and reuse the wrist pin from that if its still in good shape.

Math, schmath. That's why I bought the dual unit caliper! Thanks for the heads up on the pin size btw. Were you the one that mentioned the clip just outboard of the pto bearing. I have one of those coming from ebay. I may just get a piston kit from a US seller and use that pin since I don't...

The upper side of my caliper shows dead nuts 12mm. My unit conversion app tells me 11mm=.433" and 12mm=.47 I'll double check everything again, for sure, but this pin will not fit into the bearing or piston and the bearing fits into the rod end